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Old 09-13-2002, 08:29 AM   #2491
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Quote:
Originally posted by TPhalen
Are you guys using the correct screws????

I've had my share of TC3's and RARELY had this problem. You don't need to tighten them down until they bottom out. Snug is fine. These screws are not made as spindles....merely to hold the parts together. They don't need alot of torque put on them.

You could try threadlock or CA, but I don't think I know anyone (personally) that has had this problem.

But that's just me....
with me, it's just after time that they wear out. or after a lot of impacts - according to Jim, they don't call me Boomer for nothing (although it's more likely my sneezes.)
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Old 09-13-2002, 09:00 AM   #2492
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Default SCREWS

Hello!!! Thanks for all the answers to my ignoramous question?

Regarding screw: I have invested tools for my other kit and it is all metric.

Is there a screw set for the TC3 that is Metric??

Which after market Companay makes metric screws?

Thanks

Lem
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Old 09-13-2002, 09:02 AM   #2493
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Hey gang, if you are looking for another source of the 2 hole graphite arms for your car stop on over at KT Hobbies. We have them in stock and we are also have the single hole graphite arms for $6.00 a pair.
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Old 09-13-2002, 09:11 AM   #2494
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Default My First Race

Will race tomorrow for the first time on carpet and with a new kit!!


FT-TC3!!!!!!



The tracks are tight and the bariers are unfriendly!!!!


So I am calling the TC3 Guru's!!!! The TC3 Angel's????? THe TC3 God's?????




Be with me and hear my prayers!!!! heheheheheheheeheh




Hope i'll have fun!!! thats the best part - FUN!!!!!
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Old 09-13-2002, 09:51 AM   #2495
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Hey guys,

I have also had problems with the ball stud and the spindle. On new graphite piece's I could screw the ball stud in by hand..

My solution was to drill two holes in the spindles and use 4/40 set screws.

their is enough meat on the spindle to do this,

reasemble it all and tighten down the set screws.

(the set screws will lock down the ball stud and the bottom screw)

they wont come loose again..

If you have some old stripped out ones,you can repaire the spindles with 4/40 heli coils, (their a thin steel insert with threads) these will also cure the above..

you can buy the kit from a any good tool shop.
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Old 09-13-2002, 04:11 PM   #2496
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Quote:
Originally posted by Boomer


That's what I did too. . .it's nice just being able to pop in a one-way, pop in a locked or pop in a regular diff!
yes it is definatly convienient, hehe
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Old 09-13-2002, 06:04 PM   #2497
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Default Insert suggestion

HI guys can someone help pick what inserts to try on parking lot track probably not going to spray nothing on track..or they might not sure?

I will probably run sorex 24's and if anyone has a good starting set-up let me know?

thanks
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Old 09-14-2002, 12:18 AM   #2498
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The Sorex Type A medium insert, or the Schumacher Grey insert both work well on our TC3s with Sorex 24 or 28 tyres.

I suppose it all depends on your track.

Just see what other quick guys are running.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 09-15-2002, 05:13 PM   #2499
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Default Re: Insert suggestion

Quote:
Originally posted by TRL
HI guys can someone help pick what inserts to try on parking lot track probably not going to spray nothing on track..or they might not sure?

I will probably run sorex 24's and if anyone has a good starting set-up let me know?
depends too on the weather conditions.if it's cool outside go with the 24's, if it's warm outside,not too cool not too hot use the 32r's and it's really hot out side and the track temp is above 100 use the 36r's. With all 3 I've used HPI red inserts, green on some occassions, both work well.

Alternative to Sorex. Take off tires. I brought a full set of cs22, rims, inserts and tires (all 4 mounted) for $25.00. They don't last longer than the sorex, IMO, but they hook up str8 out of the package.
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Old 09-15-2002, 07:46 PM   #2500
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anyone know who has the new arms in stock.

Thanks.
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Old 09-16-2002, 08:25 AM   #2501
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Default gear mesh

need your help guys!!!


i'm having problems with my spur gear. what's the correct setting between the spur and pinion? wats the ideal distance?
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Old 09-16-2002, 08:39 AM   #2502
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Hey Max428 - cut a piece of paper and place it in-between the spur and pinion, then mesh them together. Tighten the motor clamp down so that the pinion wont move. Now take the paper out, slowly. If if doesn't tear your good to go, if it does, loosen the motor clamp a little and slightly back off the, the pinion against the spur that is.

Hope this helps.
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Old 09-16-2002, 09:40 AM   #2503
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Spongebob, I picked mine up today from my LHS. If they have them everyone should.
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Old 09-16-2002, 10:31 AM   #2504
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NTC3NUT,
What is different about the new rear arms?
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Old 09-16-2002, 11:52 AM   #2505
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The new arms have two shock mounting holes in them so you can use the rear shock tower on the front. Look back a couple of pages for more info. Nobody up here has them yet.
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