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Old 08-16-2002, 08:13 PM   #2296
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Default Locked front diff

I'm highly interested in locking my front diff because I typically like oneways in my TC's. I'm new to the TC3, but not cars in general. I have an idea I'd like to throw out and get some thoughts on. Instead of simply tightening the front diff srew, and getting it 90-95% lock up, how about replacing the diff balls with Traxxas friction pegs? If you have ever had a TRaxxas off-road R/C (T-maxx, Rustler, ect) you know what these little pegs are. Unlike a T3, or GT, And xxx-t which use a "pad" in the slipper clutches, Traxxas uses a "peg" which goes in the spug gear small holes where in the old days balls went. I was thinking about sticking those in and tightening the screw and most likely getting 100% locked up. I use to have a T-maxx with a 1hp engine, and its slipper never slipped using those little pegs, so I would think they would be very well suited for that purpose without glueing, or somehow messing up the diff to get it to lock up, this should be reversible if the balls ever needed to be used again. Well, thats my theory anyway.
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Old 08-16-2002, 10:08 PM   #2297
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You might be on to something there (breaking out my Traxxas parts and a spare diff). I'm gonna give this a try. Only problem MIGHT be the holes being to small (or wrong shape) for the friction pegs to actually fit....or maybe even to long. Of course, with a few spare minutes ALL of these problems could be remedied....
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Old 08-17-2002, 08:23 PM   #2298
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Doesn't the NTC3 have a locked or solid diff option? Why not just use that instead?
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Old 08-17-2002, 08:27 PM   #2299
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Part No. 1704...... around $27 at SpeedTechRC.....
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Old 08-17-2002, 08:30 PM   #2300
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I think a friend has tried this before with his TC3. Not sure if he liked it because his car kept spinning it out. Of course I don't think he knows how to tune it and I didn't get a chance to tune it for him. Maybe if I have time, I'll borrow it from him and give it a try sometime in my TC3........ How about a Solid Front Axle and a Rear oneway?
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Old 08-17-2002, 10:11 PM   #2301
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Basic current setup.....VERY smooth (believe it or not).

Front one way
Center one way
Rear shock tower on front

Very smooth....takes the point and shoot out of driving a one way with a TC3.
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Old 08-17-2002, 11:51 PM   #2302
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Quote:
Originally posted by KilRuf
I think a friend has tried this before with his TC3. Not sure if he liked it because his car kept spinning it out. Of course I don't think he knows how to tune it and I didn't get a chance to tune it for him. Maybe if I have time, I'll borrow it from him and give it a try sometime in my TC3........ How about a Solid Front Axle and a Rear oneway?
I understand that this was tried in Europe and it worked so well that it was considered unfair to everyone else and pretty much banned.

I am thinking of trying it.

The car doesn't spin out with a locked front diff - there is inherently more traction in the rear than in the front so the rear won't come around as easily as with a front oneway. The car is extremely extremely stable
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Old 08-18-2002, 05:15 PM   #2303
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Are your left and right endpoints set pretty much the same each way? If I turn both enpoints up all the way the car turns about 8 inches shorter to the right, so to get it to turn the same amount each way I have to turn the right side down about 15% less then the left side. The smallest diameter circle I can make is about 57 inches, thats measuring from the outer side of the car.
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Old 08-18-2002, 09:09 PM   #2304
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Quote:
Originally posted by spongebob
Are your left and right endpoints set pretty much the same each way? If I turn both enpoints up all the way the car turns about 8 inches shorter to the right, so to get it to turn the same amount each way I have to turn the right side down about 15% less then the left side. The smallest diameter circle I can make is about 57 inches, thats measuring from the outer side of the car.
Spongebob - check your "C" carriers, make sure they are correct. There is a batch out there that have differing thicknesses for the rear piece (don't know how to say otherwise) and it acts as a stop for the steering arm.

Because they are differing thicknesses they stop one arm before the other (and before it should. . .) making one side steer less than the other.

I actually filed mine down so that it was the same as the other.
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Old 08-19-2002, 07:14 AM   #2305
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Kilruf: The NTC3 locked front diff is too long, believe it or not!! It's about 1/16 of an inch (or so) long on each side, and the dogbone slots are to short. You'd have to shave some material off of each side and make the slots longer. Not to difficult...if you have the means to work with hardened steel!!!!
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Old 08-19-2002, 01:26 PM   #2306
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Boomer, I was thinking the same thing, I have lots of spare C hubs and they all look a little different. Is there any way to tell them apart by just looking at them. Or I'll pick up some new ones so I know exactly what they are.
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Old 08-19-2002, 01:31 PM   #2307
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Quote:
Originally posted by TPhalen
Don't think so....but why would you want them?
I currently have every hop-up available for the TC3 as far as I know Apart From Aluminum Diff Cases, It would really top off my project
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Old 08-19-2002, 06:07 PM   #2308
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Tony, too long!? Really? Damn, I wonder how he got them to work then?? Hmmm not unless if he did shave them. But I'm not sure if he's "UP" to it ta do it! Hmmmm I'll have to get ahold of him to see. Maybe that's why he was having trouble with it in his car. I dunno. Hmmmm I'll have to find out for sure now!
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Old 08-19-2002, 11:04 PM   #2309
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Quote:
Originally posted by spongebob
Boomer, I was thinking the same thing, I have lots of spare C hubs and they all look a little different. Is there any way to tell them apart by just looking at them. Or I'll pick up some new ones so I know exactly what they are.
Orient two of them (matching caster. . .) the way they would go in the car and then measure the upright to the rear. You want two with the same width.

It's actually fairly obvious when you set them up. you can also put them face to face and it becomes even more obvious.
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Old 08-19-2002, 11:08 PM   #2310
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Quote:
Originally posted by Boomer


Yes, locking the front diff takes away steering, so you have to compensate by softening the rest of the front end - that's why we put the rear shock tower in the front (different geometries) and soften the springs a lot.

Once you get the front to steer again (and you can) you get a very stable car.

Me like it!

Boomer,
Do you use the locked front diff on small technical tracks or on large tracks ?
I'm driving on a large track with a one way and am very pleased with the way it handles in comparison to a normal front diff. Just wondering if the locked front diff set up could be any beter.
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