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Old 07-30-2002, 07:04 AM   #2191
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Hey everyone, my local track layout changed from a track with many large radius turns to one with many hairpin turns. Now I had read somewhere in this thread that one-ways (which i am currently running) are slow in hairpins and that running a normal diff up front instead would be more appropriate for the situation. My question is - Is this true and why? In my mental picture of how things work, outside of better braking, I can't envision how a ball diff would be better in a tight turn. Anyone have any theories or ideas or even a link to info that explains this to my poor little brain
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Old 07-30-2002, 09:11 AM   #2192
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Default one-way & front sway bar

Is that an okay combo..... or will the front sway bar take away the effects of the one-way?


Thanks
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Old 07-30-2002, 10:32 AM   #2193
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cracker - oneways work best on sweeping turns where you can keep on some power (not saying sweepers. . .just turns with some sweep) so that the front literally pulls the car through.

They don't work as well on tight tracks where you have to slow down a lot - you end up having to swing wide initially (which opens you up for T-bones by people with brakes!) and since you can't brake, you have to kinda glide your speed down (or find some other way to shed speed)

It can still be faster, but, as in a conversation with TPhalen this weekend, it is very hard to be as consistent on a tight track with a oneway as it is with a diff.
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Old 07-30-2002, 05:37 PM   #2194
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Like Boomer said. THe one ways like a more open type track with a flowing layout. I normally run diffs in all my cars because my track is tight with many hairpins. If I was on the track by myself I could run fast with a one way but with others out and having to change my lines the diff setup was faster as I could point and shoot to the corners. I works very well with diffs on the track.

Me personally just don't care for one ways too much but on certain tracks they can be faster but then again you also need to know who you run against to see if you would truely benefit having a one way in.
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Old 07-31-2002, 06:33 PM   #2195
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If i am elected President.....I will outlaw one-ways....Diffs for everyone.....HIP HIP HOORAY....HIP HIP HOORAY......
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Old 07-31-2002, 06:37 PM   #2196
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I can run a one way just as clean as running a diff. I just turn my brake down alot around 50 percent. I do like use diffs feels like the car is more planted.:d
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Old 07-31-2002, 07:56 PM   #2197
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It's all about the good 'ol ball diff!!
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Old 08-01-2002, 04:27 PM   #2198
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Default Caster

Help needed

To get more mid and exit corner steering do I need to increase or decrease the caster.

Thanks for myour help with the above
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Old 08-01-2002, 04:35 PM   #2199
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FTD racing, decrease the caster.
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Old 08-01-2002, 06:05 PM   #2200
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Use the rear shock tower up front!!
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Old 08-01-2002, 09:53 PM   #2201
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What exactly does bump steer do? anyone care to enlighten? does it add to initial steering/turn-in? thanks in advance!
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Old 08-02-2002, 02:40 AM   #2202
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Default IRS Diff

I recently replaced the front diff to IRS Aluminum outdrives diff. Now the gear mesh don't seem to mesh. I could feel that there is more fraction between the big diff gear and the little drive gear. I placed a shim as per manual on the long side of the outdrive and try placing one the other side. Problem still exist. Next, I placed 2 shims on the long side thus forcing the diff gear to move to the left. This increased the pressure on the diff bearing. Then I proceeded to removed the shims in the drive gear so it will be positioned farther back. No luck!!!

I switched to the aluminum because the plastic outdrives kept breaking with the slightest hits. I have tried the the steel outdrives and it works fine, but I'm trying to maxmium weight reduction specially with rotating mass.

I currently running the new tires from Medial Pro 25 shore and it is the best tires I have use on non spray/prep parking lot surface. Definitly well worth the $13/pr.
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Old 08-04-2002, 10:56 AM   #2203
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TTT
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Old 08-04-2002, 01:26 PM   #2204
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Default Re: IRS Diff

Quote:
Originally posted by TC3Nut
I switched to the aluminum because the plastic outdrives kept breaking with the slightest hits. I have tried the the steel outdrives and it works fine, but I'm trying to maxmium weight reduction specially with rotating mass.

I currently running the new tires from Medial Pro 25 shore and it is the best tires I have use on non spray/prep parking lot surface. Definitly well worth the $13/pr.
Uhm....

After more than 320 packs over my actual TC3 I'didn't had the need of changing the plastic outdrives for breakage of one outdrive (touch wood...) another address to your 'problem' should be changing the steel input shafts to the aluminium ones made by IRS and sticking with steel outdrives, the weight saving isn't the same, but you shave precious grams on rotating parts of your car.

I have the aluminium ones and the plastic oudrives and none problems after 320 packs.

Stick with the plastic ones and don't slam the walls, your outdrives appreciate a lot...
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Old 08-05-2002, 12:23 AM   #2205
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Guys my setup is really out but the car runs well on prepared track. I still find my shocks a bit soft as the front end of the body scrapes the ground whenever I hard brake on the straights.


Front:
ellegi 26mm foam shore 42
shock piston #2
Integy damper oil #140
AE Gold springs
upper center hole for shock
camber link outer lower hole
camber 2degrees
toe out .5degrees
F2+2
Std C hub carrier

Rear:
ellegi 26mm Foam shore 30
Shock piston #2
Integy damper oil #140
Eagle super hard springs
Inside hole for shock
camber link inside lower
camber link inside lower on hub carrier
camber 1.5degrees
R2+2

Ratio:
9.8
weights near motor to compensate the heavy 3000 batt.
Very controllable except that my car does not have the droop adjustment, does this help? is there another cheaper way to overcome this?. I burned about 2mm of the back tire with 2 batt. packs on the last outing. Really fun coz it sticks to the ground.
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