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Old 07-17-2002, 04:47 AM   #2146
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Boomer: All of my Nitro's have use positive toe, vector, MTx-2, even my super. Both my electrics, TC3 and X-Ray use zero.
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Old 07-17-2002, 06:29 AM   #2147
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Quote:
As with real cars, 4wd works better with a slight amount of toe out .5 too 2.0 degrees. I believe it is because, under power the front wheel pull forward slightly. so if your at zero, when your under power your actually at negative toe position.
When you say Negative Toe Position, you mean Toe-In? so the theory would be to start with Toe Out so that you compensate for the car actually forcing Toe-In when under power???

My thought is the opposite that under power you would force Toe-Out, or maybe that is what you said I just screwed up

Thanks everyone for your thoughts and ideas...all of them will goto the track with me this weekend...
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Old 07-17-2002, 07:09 AM   #2148
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Under power, the front tires want to pull the car forward (duh). If there is slop in the front steering rack area, the front tires will bow out, causing toe-out. A LITTLE toe-out (under that effect) is ok, but too much could cause your car to wander around on the straights. To compensate you could set a little toe in to begin with, but then you might lose a little turn in.

That's the problem with rc cars....there's NEVER a perfect setup. You always lose something to get something.
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Old 07-17-2002, 07:49 AM   #2149
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Quote:
Originally posted by TPhalen
...If there is slop in the front steering rack area...
This raises a related issue... One local racer recently sold his TC3 and switched to an X-Ray T1, and his main comment has been that the X-Ray has almost no "slop" in the suspension, while the TC3 had a LOT... His bottom line is that his new car is more consistent because of the lack of "slop"...

I have been concerned about this issue with my TC3's, but I've never found a good solution... It is possible to shim arms, etc. at the hinge pins to eliminate front/rear sliding on the hinge pin, but... Since the hinge pins fit into holes in the chassis mounts, and since those holes must allow for different angles (to accomodate changes in anti-squat and/or rear toe-in for example), there is a built in source of "slop"...

Any ideas? Are aluminum mounts better? (I've always found aluminum parts "tighter" when NEW, but aluminum wears quickly, and seems to develop more "slop" in the long run..?) ?How about aluminum mounts with nylon inserts for the hinge pins? ?Who makes/sells them?

Is this "slop" too small to worry about? (I don't think so -- I know that a new car will out handle an old one, and I associate that with the much greater "slop" in an older car...)
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Old 07-17-2002, 08:34 AM   #2150
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Tom: I have both the X-Ray and TC3. The X-Ray has almost no slop due to the pillow ball design, whereas my TC3's front is way sloopy. Car is 6 weeks old. Need to c hange the front steering rods to pressed pillow ball like serpent and others used to reduce the slop. Slop is in the ball cups and balls. I even changed the rack to the FT bearings, but the rack still has slop.
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Old 07-17-2002, 10:58 AM   #2151
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the design of the rack insists on some slop, even if you have bearings - think about it.

You have two parallel surfaces that have to move the same direction (the two sides of the rack) across a bushing or bearing. The bearing/bushing will want to roll across one surface - and therfore bind against the other. If you want to actually let the rack move one way or another, you have to allow enough "tolerance" to move the rack away from the side that wants to bind. . . I hope I said that clearly.

I haven't had any problems as long as I keep my toe at around -1/2.

I did the same thing with my old Pro2, I do the same thing with my 10L2, both steering setups I kept as precise as possible.

As far as slop goes - I don't think that my nitro has any less than my electrics. . .but behavior is still opposite. . .hmmmmmm
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Old 07-17-2002, 12:01 PM   #2152
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Thanks Boomer. As an ME I should have engaged the brain Be better with a center piviot point like the 1/8 scale use or the X-Ray. I will try the - 1/2, been using a Hudy board and setting at 0. Worth a try. As to nitro. My vector had no slop, but the design of pillow lends itself to this, plus the center piviot and mounted pillow links
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Old 07-18-2002, 08:15 PM   #2153
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I just got some of the TIR (Ultimate Racing Products) titanium pinions.
I was wondering, what size the pinion screw is? Because my regular pinion wrench doesn't work.
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Old 07-19-2002, 12:24 AM   #2154
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It maybe already mention, but do the sway bars make much of a difference. I just got my TC3 and it is handling great, but im getting a lot of roll and its scrubbing speed through the corners. I run on a kinda tight track, on unprepaired pavement.

Thanks a lot.
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Old 07-19-2002, 07:00 AM   #2155
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Sway bars are normally used on nice, preferably flat, prepared tracks. If the track has little traction, you might not want to run them. Hi-traction, on the other hand, you will notice a huge improvement.

As a note, on low traction tracks, you MIGHT run one on the front. This will take some of the sensitivity out of the car...make it a little easier to drive.
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Old 07-19-2002, 08:07 AM   #2156
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Thanks a lot, I think i will avoid them for now, ill keep experimenting with other stuff.

Thanks
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Old 07-19-2002, 11:09 AM   #2157
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Yodace - those are 1.5 mil

Isn't it nice having three different pinion setscrew sizes?
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Old 07-19-2002, 12:38 PM   #2158
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Just a small addition to what Tony stated, what he means by "...make it a little easier to drive" is that you will increase traction in the rear of the car by running JUST the front sway-bar on loose tracks.
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Old 07-19-2002, 03:00 PM   #2159
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I almost always run a sway bar on the front...even on a semi bumpy track....helps the rear end, stay in the rear.
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Old 07-20-2002, 12:31 AM   #2160
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had to go and buy a 1.5 wrench today?
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