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Old 06-26-2002, 04:37 PM   #2041
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In stock, I'm not using the idle up feature, I just dial up the throttle trim until the car just creeps forward when I don't hold any brakes.

For mod, I set the trim so that there's no throttle or brake when I let off the trigger completely.

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Old 06-27-2002, 03:47 AM   #2042
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I only use the idle up feature when starting my Nitro car. I both my electrics I do not use this. Mine does not destabolize when I let off. I was pushing on the TC oval last night, but in reducing the speed into the turns this diminished.
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Old 06-28-2002, 04:56 PM   #2043
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TPHalen....when are those new TC3 arms coming out??????

Sup ya'll....TC3's...go kick some ASS this weekend....
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Old 06-29-2002, 07:58 PM   #2044
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New arms should be out VERY soon (if they're not already). The big thing is that AE needs to do SOMETHING with the old arms first. Releasing the new ones will leave BOXES of old ones in the warehouse.

Ran the NTC3 today. Used my well-used Mugen motor. Thing finally took a crap. So, in went the virgin OS .12TR. Gonna break it in at the Chino race tomorrow. If it gets working, I'll race it.
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Old 06-30-2002, 09:15 AM   #2045
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Give um to me , I don`t mind drilling um out......

Please send um to Trcr care of Wild Cherry.....

Thanks....
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Old 06-30-2002, 09:19 AM   #2046
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Tony , I`m going to the stock Nats in Utah ...

I believe you already have some experience with the Peak hell fire motor...

I know were off topic ,but could you give me some advise on tuning this motor for the best performance......

thanks.....
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Old 07-01-2002, 09:55 AM   #2047
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Sorry. I know nothing about that motor.

Just talked to AE about the new TC3 arms. They are not ready to ship any. I'm assuming they need to get rid of the thousands of arms still in the warehouse. No release date yet....
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Old 07-01-2002, 09:58 AM   #2048
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Uh,.....I just bought some of the new arms this weekend after I broke one. I was surprised that they were the new ones but the hobby shop had them. speedworld raceway in Roseville california.
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Old 07-02-2002, 06:37 AM   #2049
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"Backwards" Setup?

OK -- I went back through this whole thread and didn't find a reference to a question I have, so here it is...

On the TC3 (and as far as I know, this applies ONLY to the TC3), there are two totally different "armed camps" in regard to spring balance front-to-rear....

Associated's manuals, etc. start with siffer springs on the front, and all the "official" setups have either stiffer front springs or the same springs all around...

However -- local racers (including ME) seem to agree with an old "How to Hook Up your TC3" article that was in Xtreme R/C a couple of years ago... We find that on the local parking lot track, the TC3 is "happier" and more "balanced" if the REAR springs are stiffer than the fronts...?

Is this some sort of "illusion" that has us fooled, or is there something unique about the TC3 suspension geometry that comes into play here? I know on my car that The "factory" style setups seem to be "tail happy" and very loose on corner entry, and push on corner exit, while the "backwards" setup is much more balanced, with more corner speed...

Whatsupwithat?

At the suggestion of another person on this site, I'll post the details:

Local HobbyTown parking lot races. Track is laid out on a concrete parking lot (broomed concrete surface -- abrasive, not very smooth, with ripples and seams, etc.). Track is NOT prepared in any way (not even swept off before racing, NO sugar water or "anything")...

Car is a TC3 upgraded to "team" specs (aluminum shocks, etc.)... Currently setup like:

Front:
40 wt LOSI oil, #2 piston, Gold Springs, top of shock in outer hole in standard front shock mount, 8.5mm Ground clearance, no sway bar, F+2 (stock), -1 deg camber, 0 toe-in...
Rear:
40wt LOSI oil, #2 piston, Gold Springs, top of shock in outer hole in standard rear shock mount, 7.5mm ground clearance, no sway bar, R+2+2, -1 deg camber...
Battery:
"Back"...
Body:
Either ProtoForm Stratus or ProtoForm 300M
NOTE1: Car is tweaked on MIP tweak station to perfectly centered bubble, and handling is balanced between left and right turns...
NOTE2: Chassis is "old" style, so I am not using droop screws, ride height is adjusted with internal limiters, which are "stock" as in the original kit...


This setup works "OK", but MY best setup has been Gold front, Red rear ("Backwards") -- the track record was set by a local racer with a TC3 running SILVER front springs and COPPER rear springs!

My best run this summer is 27/5:03 -- track record is the ONLY 28 lap run of the summer at 28/5:11... Track has one LONG straight around 100', and a total lap length of 285' on the "racing line"... Just to add to the "degree of dificulty", the parking lot has a pronounced slope for drainage, so some of the turns are decidedly "off-camber".

With a fresh set of H13's, my car is "on rails" with this setup, but I keep worrying that I am missing something. It does show a slight push at times with new tires, and has a tendancy to get "tricky" on worn tires (loose under braking, push under power) -- makes me think some part of the setup is "on the edge"...?
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Old 07-02-2002, 07:43 AM   #2050
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hey we just got our drive way paved and while we were at it we got a road course done next our house. i was going to be buying some sets of tires to try out. i race on carpet so im new to asphalt and i was wondering what types of tires and inserts i should buy. this might be a hard question to answer but any help would be appreciated. the weather hear in maine right now has been between 70 and 90 degrees all day if that helpes and i think ill be usaully running a tc3 if that matters. thanks
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Old 07-02-2002, 12:17 PM   #2051
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tfrahm: The TC3 has a tendency to be very aggresive on a high bite track. For low bite surfaces, you might notice quite a push with a 'normal' high bite setup, especially if you run a diff in the front. If you can manage, a one-way is usually your best bet to start outdoors. Helps the car steer alot. Your 'backwards' setup is pretty useful on a CERTAIN outdoor surfaces. I've been to two different outdoor parking lot concrete tracks and with the same outdoor-concrete setup, the car is good one place and REALLY bad at others. But, it's not unusual for your setup to happen.

spaz456: You might try either HPI's hot weather tires (I think they are the 33R or 36R) or Sorex tires (36R -> 40R). Either are good for outdoor hot tracks. I'm sure there are others but those are what we normally run in SoCal.

Matt: Make sure the ones you have are 190mm. There are some 200mm gas/rally arms out there that have both holes....
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Old 07-02-2002, 12:28 PM   #2052
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they're 190mm and I really liked how the car felt with the rear tower in the front and the shocks in the outside hole on the arm. The car for me seemed to get more entry and mid corner steering.
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Old 07-02-2002, 01:04 PM   #2053
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Quote:
Originally posted by TPhalen
If you can manage, a one-way is usually your best bet to start outdoors. Helps the car steer alot.
Thanks for the information -- it helps explain a few things... Oddly enough, now that you mention it, the TC3 that set the track record DID have a front one-way (I had forgotten that until you mentioned it)... My TC3 still has the standard front diff, so that might be a modification to consider...?
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Old 07-02-2002, 03:54 PM   #2054
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Default Help with one way

Hope some one can help.

I have a Team Associated one way diff. When holding the car in the air after letting the power off, one side turns alot longer than the other. I looked at all the moving parts but they all seem to be fine.

Any ideas
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Old 07-02-2002, 04:05 PM   #2055
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Hey matt, Do you use a one way with those two hole arms and rear shock tower up front??
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