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Old 06-17-2002, 01:46 PM   #1996
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wen will the new front arms be in the LHS's also sould i run 40wt or 45 wt shock oil for parking lot racing? the parking lot is bumpy cracked concrete asphalt mix
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Old 06-17-2002, 05:28 PM   #1997
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Would anyone care to disect my post above as to the use of rear tower on the front and the roll center issue....tell me what you think
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Old 06-18-2002, 01:29 PM   #1998
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Dragon Slayer - you would think it would work about the same, given what you mentioned but I'm not certain

Oil weight. Varies from track to track. I use the following

Front
30 WT
Silver Springs
Shocks in the upright position

Rear
30-25 (depending on how hot it is outside)
Green Springs
Shcoks in the upright position

My ride height is about 6mm front and rear.

Droop setting
5mm up front
3mm in the rear

Battery placement
Front

Adding about 2.5 ounces to the car to make it ROAR legal.

Tires(all around)

Sorex 36 (when the track temp is above +100 degrees)
Inserts HPI RED

Batteries and motor is hard wired, zero resistance.

Gear Ratio
72/29 = 6.23
72/28 = 6.45
Motor BigJims P2k

Bearing in the Gear Diff are not sealed, I clean them every other race and lube them with a drop of TRIBO. Grease used, Losi Diff grease, very little grease. I've used that White Lightning. Good stuff, actually made my MINI quieter but I have to disagree with Grizzbob, it will leave a residue in the inside of the gear case but you can leave what you have on the gears itself and take out the access out of the gear box ans you should be OK. I agree with Grizzbob in that it works very well. Do not use too much, maybe pore some on a little paint brush and paint a little bit on.
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Old 06-18-2002, 07:17 PM   #1999
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Default Tyres

Hi guys,
I would like some help with rubber tyres on a carpet track (needle pin type not ozite).
We usually run foams but are having a championship with rubbers, so i am starting from scratch again.
Theres about 4 of us with tc3's and we are trying to get some ideas on the better tyres and inserts to try out.

Cheers
Sam
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Old 06-19-2002, 11:11 AM   #2000
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snoopy,
there is no small amount of information on the HPI site. do a search for the slippy floors forum.
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Old 06-19-2002, 01:39 PM   #2001
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Was in the bicycle shop today and saw a White Lightning lube. But wasnīt shure if itīs the right one as it was wax based, donīt know if wax is anything good for low roll resistance. But saw and bought Finish Line Teflon Plus. I think any lube containing Teflon should be good for the gears. Also the White Lightning costīs about three times of the Teflon Plus here. Any body know of this stuff?
My TC-3 is brandnew, just finished but not run yet. Was should be better? Running in the gears first and applying the Teflon Plus afterwards or applying now before running in?
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Old 06-19-2002, 02:44 PM   #2002
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Hello V12. Either or would be OK. I don't too much lube on my gears, a little will go a long way. I place a little on about 6 grooves then skip some and do the same on the next 6, etc..
Not too sure about that Teflon stuff you got. If you got another car, try it on that first and see what happens.

Good luck
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Old 06-19-2002, 04:41 PM   #2003
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White lightning is a wax based teflon lube for bicycles. It goes on wet, then dries. The idea is that the wet loosens dirt/grime then flakes off when the wax dries. Works great on bike chains!

I have used it on my gears, but i didn't like the build up. You have to use it sparingly or it can wash out the diff lube and bearings.

I run my gears dry now.
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Old 06-20-2002, 07:04 AM   #2004
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We normally run Losi White Grease. It's a pretty light grease and REALLY quiets the car down.
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Old 06-20-2002, 07:13 AM   #2005
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agree Tphalen, that's what I started using, sparingly. Hey Where are you from?
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Old 06-20-2002, 11:47 AM   #2006
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How do u tell if your chassis is tweaked, with out having a tweak station?
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Old 06-20-2002, 02:43 PM   #2007
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Mike F: SoCal.

yodace: A couple ways to check your chassis. One, the harder way, is to remove the F&R gearboxes and set the chassis on a perfectly flat surface, like a glass tabletop. You'll be able to rock the chassis around if it's not flat. Or, take a ruler and hold it long ways from side to side of the chassis (forming a + sign). Run it from front to back of the chassis, slowly. You'll be able to see gaps under the sides if it's tweaked. On the second method, don't worry about the extreme edges of the chassis.....they might be worn down from rubbing on the ground.
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Old 06-20-2002, 05:24 PM   #2008
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I did the flat surface check when I got my kit and it did have a twist. I emailed Associated and they said that was normal as the cooling process caused this. Is that right???

Also, what is the best way to set the tweak if you don't have a tweak board?
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Old 06-20-2002, 07:00 PM   #2009
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If you get a really nice ride height guage you can get about 98% of you tweak out(assuming your chassis is flat) Set all four corners of the chassis to your prefered ride height--it is important that you be VERY meticulous about this. When I do this I can get the tweak dead center of the bubble on my tweak board. It just takes a little time and practice!!--Al
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Old 06-20-2002, 11:49 PM   #2010
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You can just add a slim ( motor slim) on the left rear pivot block .
All tc-3 chassies are tweak rite from the mold. Good news is just about every chassie has the same tweak , so try the slim....
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