TPhalen

iTrader: (2)

I don't know yet. I have to call (today, hopefully) and get the info...

sponger

Well I'm sure you'll post it as soon a you can. Thanks for the help
Sponger

TPhalen

iTrader: (2)

May try to help out as best I can, but now I have a problem. Just (possibly) broke my ankle. Stepped in a hole and twist-snap!!!!

Sitting here icing it right now. In an hour or two, if it's still super sore, I'll be heading to the doctors.

Unfortunately, this will hamper my movement around the house...might not be able to get to some things as soon as I'd like...nor, depending, will I be able to make the Nats.

sponger

dude, talk about a bummer you must feel like a kulst I'll call Hot rods, maybe Jimmy knows or if any else out there in cyber space knows what tire and instert combo to run at Hot rod hobbies let us know.

Dragon Slayer

Wild cherry...i thought the new arms were front arms?????

TPHalen......tell em' to put an elevator beside the driver stand.......ya' gotta back up the Reedy result.......

Craig

Tony-what driveshaft is the team guys running?

TigeRyan

iTrader: (7)

Evening all,

Just got a couple of used TC3's and I am having a problem with the one. It seems the rear end of the car is tweaked really bad, I am unscrewed everyone on the car and the chassis is straight, I even bolted everything onto a new chassis and it is still tweaked....

Here is a list of things I have tried so far...
#1. Rebuilt all shocks and checked and matched length of all shocks
#2. Checked lengths on all tie rods
#3. Checked chassis for straightness
#4. removed all 4 braces and re-assembled

I am at a lose at this point...I have had the car out 3 times to the track and it is fast, actually hanging with some of the real fast guys at our track on the straightaways, but the car is rear end loose in the corners and under breaking and I have to bet it is the tweak in the rear-end of the car...

Well, if anyone has any ideas they would be greatly appreciated...

TigeRyan

rto997

Did you check the bearings in each of the hubs, when bearings go bad the tend to make the car feel like it is tweaked.

Do you have the bearing spacers in between the bearings in each hub??? The spacers are needed to keep the bearings parallel to one another, also to keep from binding when tightening the wheels down.

Just a few of the things that I can think of??

Corse-R

Uhm.... for those steps that you did previously, I bet for a 'classic mess' on the TC3, you maind some interesting info if you dive on the past of this forum (concretely was some thread talking of uneven rear toe-in... Arvid, me and others - sorry, that was 8 months ago, I don't remember all the people who noticed this) I tried to find it. Search for 'uneven rear toe-in' and should be a thread between ends of Dec'2001 and mids of Jan'2002.

Sorry for not giving more info, that's all that I remember about.

TPhalen

iTrader: (2)

Craig: Most of the drivers are using the standard carbon shaft, but others, like myself, have gone to an aluminum shaft. Good points: shaft won't break. Bad points: something else will, namely the outdrives the shaft slides into. While I haven't broken one yet, this is, as we figured and seen a few people do, the next weak point.

Also, with an aluminum shaft, you might want to be a little more careful if you DO break the output shaft cup. This might let the shaft slide over and short out the battery. Saw it happen once....not a pretty site. Smoke coming out of the car. Pretty cool if it's not YOUR car

TigeRyan: One of the biggest problems with the car being tweaked is simply BUILDING the car correctly.

First off, shock length is important, but preload is not. You might not have the same preload on all four corners. That's ok, as long as it's CLOSE and the car is tweaked correctly.

Second, you might have to replace the front and rear hinge pin mounts. This is a common mistake with TC3 builders. The object is not to MAKE the hinge pins fit, but to make them fit without flexing the plastic that they seat in. The instruction manual doesn't tell you, but you have to slide the hinge pins into the arm mount, slide the arms on the hinge pins, and then, instead of just forcing the final hinge pin mount on, you have to push BOTH arms toward the center of the car, and slide the hinge pin mount on.

Most builders slide on hinge pin in the mount, flex the mount over and insert the second hinge pin. Bad. That flexes the plastic mount and can certainly cause un-equal rear toe or possibly tweak.

Also, as RTO mentioned, it is VERY important to have the 'crush tubes' installed between the bearing on all four corners. If not, you could overtighten the wheel nut, causing one wheel to not spin correctly. This could also cause handling problems.

linger

iTrader: (1)

Tony - dood, sorry to hear about that ankle. I have some titanium plates and screws from a previous job to bolt that puppy back together.

I tried the locked front diff for a while, but I couldn't get the car to turn in at all and running slower overall. I was running 2 front kickup and 2 castor - should I try some thing different?

dcracer

Tony, which aluminum shaft are you using. How does it compare in weight to the stock shaft.

Thanks

dcracer

Dabeejrc

If you want good CVDs get the MIP Shiny or Aluminum. Also, I think there is a Factory Team TC3 so go for one of those

sponger

Tony hows the ankle??? are you going to make it to the nats???? I called Hot Rod's they said Sorex 32, 36, 40s with hpi green and blue inserts. Hope to see ya at Rod's

Matman03

iTrader: (4)

How does the aluminum driveshaft's weight compare to the composite? Has anyone use the titanium driveshaft on the market?
And one last question, does the pivot ball suspension from the NTC-3 bolt on to the TC-3? Thanks