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Old 09-16-2001, 10:20 PM   #181
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the steel dogbones wont help. I have seen steel ones turned into twizlers on the serpent impulse
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Old 09-17-2001, 01:18 AM   #182
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Quote:
Originally posted by MattW
Can anyone tell me the measured length of TC3 shock shafts??
The shock shaft on TC3 is 0.56". If you run the TC3-R the shock shaft is 0.71".
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Old 09-17-2001, 07:07 AM   #183
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RE: Breaking dogbones while using the one-way.

The biggest problem is when either front wheel becomes unloaded, typically while turning. The inside wheel begins to spin at a MUCH higher rpm and when it settles, the shock of it touching the ground tends to snap the CVD. Associated has cured the problem by releasing thicker CVD's. There are quite a few thin ones still in circulation, so, when you buy new ones, just check to make sure you're getting the thicker ones. Also, make sure the little o-ring is also installed in the one-way drive cup.

Hope this helps.
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Old 09-17-2001, 10:26 AM   #184
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Quote:
Originally posted by Corse-R


The shock shaft on TC3 is 0.56". If you run the TC3-R the shock shaft is 0.71".
Yeah i wondered what the "actual physical length" was to be honest.
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Old 09-17-2001, 01:06 PM   #185
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Are you talking eyelet to eyelet? If that is the case, that number does not sound correct.
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Old 09-17-2001, 01:46 PM   #186
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Quote:
Originally posted by wolfeman09
Are you talking eyelet to eyelet? If that is the case, that number does not sound correct.
Nope... I'm talking about the lenght of the shock shaft (please, take a minute to re-read my posting) the lenght of the shock should vary depending what type of shock cap you're using: Associated plastic, Associated aluminium or the Yokomo shock cap (the one with a small screw on it to adjust the air into the shock).
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Old 09-17-2001, 01:48 PM   #187
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Quote:
Originally posted by TPhalen
RE: Breaking dogbones while using the one-way.

The biggest problem is when either front wheel becomes unloaded, typically while turning. The inside wheel begins to spin at a MUCH higher rpm and when it settles, the shock of it touching the ground tends to snap the CVD. Associated has cured the problem by releasing thicker CVD's. There are quite a few thin ones still in circulation, so, when you buy new ones, just check to make sure you're getting the thicker ones. Also, make sure the little o-ring is also installed in the one-way drive cup.
I solved partially this problem using the IRS pins on my CVD's
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Old 09-17-2001, 02:52 PM   #188
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Quote:
Originally posted by TPhalen
wow....posted my message and 4 more appear RIGHT after it...

don't you people work??? ahhaha, oh, ya, i'm at work too...heh heh

Tony, its not like we have anything better to do!!!! We also want to know all those speed secrets you got!!!!!
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Old 09-17-2001, 02:59 PM   #189
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Well, ask away. I will have alot of good info on my site soon. The "Tips From the Pros" section is almost done. I'll let you know when it is....
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Old 09-17-2001, 03:26 PM   #190
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Default NOT A SPEED SECRET QUESTION,BUT.......

does anyone know if the speedtech dishes are dyeable?
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Old 09-17-2001, 04:55 PM   #191
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If they dont have coating on them like the rpm wheels do, then it should be dyable.
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Old 09-17-2001, 05:10 PM   #192
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you mean like a clearcoat type of coating? they're not as shiny as the ofna dishes.
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Old 09-17-2001, 07:28 PM   #193
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skar tisu-
Foam Mod-
oil 70 f 50 r
droop 6 f 4 r (i'm sure you could go less, still trying stuff)
spring white or yellow f blue r
swaybar front only
shock mount middle hole (all the way in in the rear for more bite)
camber link up, in all around
caster 4+2
battery split or back, some guys like the 2+4 split
4.5mm ride ht
full time 4wd
toe 1* out f 3+2 r
TRC plaid f purple r

Also, for the one way guys-
On carpet with rubber the diff is usually really good in stock. Not everybody likes it for mod. The center shaft car be helpful when you're not comfortable with the diff oneway, or if the traction isn't good, old carpet whatever.

On foam you can get into trouble with the oneway diff. The amount of front end traction can give you wierd traction rolls, especially at big races. Generally not good. The Center shaft can work well in stock, but few people like it for mod. Foam tires makes the car drive really hard into the corners, and the oneway takes away some of your ability to battle, and makes the car a bit incosistent for mod.
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Old 09-17-2001, 08:26 PM   #194
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Default Bearing Maintenance?

Just rebuilding my car after Saturday's racing - full rebuild and I noticed that my rear outer wheel bearings were almost siezed. I could bearly get them to move. One of the rear inner wheel bearings were in sad shape too. I've "touched" a board or two every race day but I'm not a hack (at least I think so) and people have hit me too. I'm an A main qualifier most of the time. Funny thing is that the front bearings are still in great shape.

Question: Is anyone seeing similar issues? Do the rear wheel bearings just take a beating? Any tips or tricks on maintenance. Also, what is the best method for removing bearings from the hub without messing up the bearing races? Finally, what brand bearings are the best (strong and smooth)?
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Old 09-18-2001, 07:12 AM   #195
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Is your car a FT, Team, or a Racer kit? If it's a FT (or I think the Team, also), the kit will include 'bearing spacers'. These little gems fit between the bearing IN the hubs. It's possible you've over tightened the wheel nut to clamp down on the bearing. This will definitely overheat the bearing and cause it to seize up. Just one possibility.

Something else to check. If your rear hubs are cracked, this could mis-align the bearings, causing the axle to sit funny in the bearings. I've seen someones car with that, also. That's a little more noticeable, though.
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