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Old 04-23-2002, 05:42 PM   #1696
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I race stock only and find that "pumping" the throttle gets me through the turns much faster. A couple of pumps with 1/4 throttle then 1/2-3/4 coming out of the turn (depends on size of turn). I just started using the tc3 and don't have a one way, I can creep up on almost anybody using this method. Many racers rush out to buy the one way,but don't set their cars up correctly and tend to push coming out of the turn-that's when you pass 'em!! DIFFS FO LIFE FOO!!
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Old 04-23-2002, 06:10 PM   #1697
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I raced my TC3 in mod on Sunday for the first time. (i used to race stock with my tc3).

I have a big diff problem!

after 2 laps, the front and rear diffs will become a solid axle! almost impossible to drive! after the car cools down, the diffs work again smoothly.

What's going on? the plastic deform?? I tighten both diff and then back out a quarter turn as the instruction said. the diffs work good for me in stock racing.

Is there any tricky ways to get around the problem? or the steel diff is the only way for modified motors?
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Old 04-23-2002, 06:40 PM   #1698
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over gear - I had the same problem in my TC3 with the plastic outdrives. One of the other mod racers at the track said that I might have been spinning the tires too much in the turns which caused the diffs to heat up. Only ran the car one weekend in mod though so I didn't do any more testing of that theory.
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Old 04-23-2002, 06:49 PM   #1699
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From what I was told, Green Slime is for shock O-Rings.
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Old 04-23-2002, 11:13 PM   #1700
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Yes, Green Slime is for the shock o-rings.

over gear: hmmm, I've heard that before, too, but don't remember what it was that we did to fix it. Are the diffs an afterthought or did they come with your TC3 kit???
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Old 04-24-2002, 12:46 AM   #1701
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TPhalen: I'm using the molded diffs that comes with the FT TC3....plz plz plz find out the magic trick

Schuie Driver: I have the same thought too, so I dial down the punch on my LRP Quantum. but no help at all.
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Old 04-24-2002, 08:07 AM   #1702
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Ok, well, the only thing I can say is make sure that you built them correctly. They are built different than the stocks, and you SHOULD use the bushing that came with them, not a bearing. Also, the diff spring goes on the OPPOSITE side of the diff than it did with the steel diff.

That's about it. Unless you have a bind somewhere, that's the only thing I can think of.
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Old 04-24-2002, 10:59 AM   #1703
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TP why should you use the bushing and not a bearing? I thought that bearings were always better? I have the original bushing in mine, but it was something that I was considering upgrading.
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Old 04-24-2002, 11:12 AM   #1704
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Not sure why. We were just told to keep the bushing in it. Really, if you think about it, the bushing OR the bearing really doesn't get much use. It only 'uses' them when it diffs...or entering or exiting corners.

Maybe it has to do with the drag. Maybe the plastics need the drag to work correctly???!!!
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Old 04-24-2002, 11:19 AM   #1705
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Hey Tony!

You helped me at Kinetix in Austin a week or so ago. Thanks for the bumper and the assistance. Too bad you broke in the main. New track record woulda been cool.

Quick question: I went to the 28mm tires, but the inside of the wheel rubs the top of the ballcup (RPM) in the rear. I shaved the ballcup a bit, but it is still really close. However, on your setup you have the rear camber links shorter in the rear (up and out). Does it matter if the shortened end comes from the shock tower or the rear hub carrier? You know, for clearance.

dennis
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Old 04-24-2002, 11:57 AM   #1706
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blueboy -

i tried building the plastic diffs w/ bearings, and it just didn't work. i don't know why, but that's why i just followed the instructions.

overgear -

i had the same problem. in one day, i went through two diffs... and they were freshly re-built. what i discovered was that the spring and the balls (not the carbide balls on the diff itself) had worn down. i was trying to clamp it down so that it wouldn't slip, but after one run the diff had scorched and the 2 halves had heated up. hence, acting like a straight axle.

i remedied it by replacing the parts and using the right grease, and not too much of it.

it sounds pretty redundant, but tp hit the nail on the head - follow the instructions and build it right. i speak from experience, i've made a ton of errors in my haste.
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Old 04-24-2002, 12:35 PM   #1707
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Grizzbob and TPhalen thanks for the help on the oneway issue. The car should be here in the next few days. Are there any tips you would suggest in putting the car together? I did buy the assortment of springs and I am trying to get a oneway for the car just to have it until i need it.

Ronnie

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Old 04-24-2002, 12:48 PM   #1708
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Dingus I'm not tony but:

If you could shorten the link by moving the inboard end horizontally it would give the same camber change as if you had moved the outboard end horizontally.
However the roll centre would be different. It probably wouldn't be much of a change in roll centre though and may not be that noticeable.
Things on the tc3 are further complicated by the fact that the holes are at at different heights so you are moving the ballstud vertically as well as horizontally. This means camber change will certainly be affected as well.
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Old 04-24-2002, 02:22 PM   #1709
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that's what I wanted to know. What will the height difference do? Will it even be noticeable?
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Old 04-24-2002, 04:07 PM   #1710
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dw is right. Roll center & camber change will be different. You might try and experiment with it, see what happens.

Glad I finally got the car pretty good by the main. Might have been able to pull of some 7's....

picco007: Just take you time and build slow. Do the ol' bearing trick (just be aware that you will need to maintain them a little more often) .
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