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Old 03-27-2002, 02:58 PM   #1531
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plus TC3's finished 2nd and 3rd in stock TC
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Old 03-27-2002, 03:22 PM   #1532
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As posted on trinity's site.

mikereedy (Wednesday, March 27, 2002, 12:01 a.m.)
Josh,

You will be happy to know we are going to give the no one way a shot at the Reedy race. Every year we try something new to see how it works so this year it will be a no one way rule. Talked to a lot of racers at the nats and only had one negative response so we will give it a try.


Phalen, is this true?????
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Old 03-27-2002, 05:40 PM   #1533
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TPHalen......could you clear up the TC3 caster issue.....the manual says more caster=more turn in....less exiting the turn....i was thinking that more caster gave you less entering and more exiting.....someone above mentioned that because of the upper camber link being at a weird angle that it caused this?????whats the story????....thanks.

We are having our grand opening race on April 6th.....turnout is looking good...people from dallas, Memphis,and from parts unknown.....looks like i'll be one of a handfull of TC3's vs....basically the world...I'll let ya'll know how it goes......
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Old 03-27-2002, 06:17 PM   #1534
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TONY,

YOU OUGHT TO BE IN THE TOP 15. AE AIN'T POSTING MY SET UP SHEET ON THEIR WEBSITE. YOU WERE INCLUDED ON MY LIST, I DIDN'T THINK I HAD TO MENTION YOUR NAME. I THINK THEY HAVE MORE DRIVERS BECAUSE OF HORIZON BACKING THEM UP. IT ALL COMES DOWN TO MONEY. A GOOD DRIVER IS A GOOD DRIVEN NO MATTER WHAT CAR THEY ARE DRIVING. I'M SURE IF ASSOCIATED HAD THAT KIND OF BACKING THEN THE TEAM WOULD BE JUST AS BIG, IF NOT BIGGER. ASSOCIATED HAS BEEN ON TOP FOR A VERY LONG TIME, I THINK, AND IT DOESN'T HURT TO ENCOURAGE A LITTLE COMPETITION. IT'S GOOD FOR THE SPORT. BUT IT'S GOOD TO KNOW THAT A REP FROM AE, LIKE YOURSELF, IS HERE TO HELP US LITTLE GUYS. THANKS.
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Old 03-27-2002, 06:23 PM   #1535
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MY FT IS WAY UNDER WEIGHT. I HAD TO STRAP ON 2 OZ. OF LEAD TO PASS TECH. IS THERE ANY OTHER WAY I CAN PUT SOME WEIGHT ON WITH OUT LEAD?? DON'T WANT TO SWITCH TO PLASTIC PARTS THOUGH.
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Old 03-27-2002, 06:43 PM   #1536
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You could remove some aluminum screws and use steel instead as somebody had mentioned in a previous post.
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Old 03-27-2002, 08:07 PM   #1537
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you guys sound like you know what you're talking about....maybe you can help me out.... I'm pretty new to R/C and I got a tamiya car.(flame suit on) anyway, its got red springs which are soft and comes with this orangy oil.... its too soft a setting (figured that out cuz the car sparks sometimes) I adjusted preload and helped but not enough. I got the tuned spring set and i'm thinking blue front and yellow rear(firm, medium) but I have no idea as to what oil to use. my LHS only carries associated...would you guys know what weight matches the blue and the yellow springs given all shocks use 2hole disks inside?


I once put 30 wt with the stock chrome springs and the car looked like a pogo stick...I DONT want that to happen during the race!
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Old 03-27-2002, 08:33 PM   #1538
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XER987,

Can you do you a favor and not post in all caps? It makes your posts hard to read

Thanks...
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Old 03-27-2002, 09:01 PM   #1539
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Dragon Slayer- This is very hard to explain but I will do my best. Because of the angle of the camber link if you add castor eg 2 degree block, it will make the car have less camber when suspension is not compressed so therefor the wheels will have more contact at corner entry and therefore more turn in.
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Old 03-27-2002, 10:02 PM   #1540
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Default Toe-in

I remember us talking about this awhile back, and I just noticed it on my car. In the rear, one side has more toe-in than the other side. How can this be fixed? and what is causing the problem? All my arms and carriers are graphite, and all the hinge pins are brand new and strait. The car is still fast and is handling great, just wondering if it could be just that little bit better. Thanks for any help.
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Old 03-28-2002, 04:03 AM   #1541
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Modena AL - Read Tony's post a while back about the rear toe issue. Need to make sure as you're installing the rear toe block that you don't attach one side and then try to stretch it over to attach to the other pin. This causes the rear toe to be out of whack on one side. Both pins need to be squeezed together while the block is being installed to create the correct amount of toe. Tony explains it better than I can so I suggest paging back a bit to see his original post........
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Old 03-28-2002, 06:10 AM   #1542
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Morning all... <yawn> Long night.

Ok...

Ling: Yes. The one way will not have a showing at the Reedy Race this year. That blows cuz I haven't driven WITHOUT one in years...heh heh Oh well, guess it's time to get used to brakes again. I have an idea that I've been wanting to try for a long time anyway with the front diff....

Dragon Slayer: As ixlr8nz said. More caster will also calm a car down, ie. make it much less aggressive.

XER987: Also, our team really doens't NEED to be that big. We do very well at almost every race we attend. There are instances where we don't do well because some of our top drivers arent' at that particular race, but at about 90% of the races we are in the show. No need to have a bigger team, really.

Aluma: I was going to suggest the 30wt oil. Your pogo car is probably the springs. Oil really only has effect on the bound (up travel), not as much on the rebound (down travel). Thickening up the oil will slow up travel, but it will also make the car lazy. I would stick with the 30 (maybe 35-40) and go with a softer spring. Sorry, but I don't know the spring comparisions (although I think I have that info on my site, which I could go look at but I'm a little too tired right now to go through all that )

Modena: If you can't find it, I'll repost the info....but it shouldn't be that far back....Thanks Schuie
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Old 03-28-2002, 07:27 AM   #1543
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Quote:
Originally posted by TPhalen
Rear Toe-In

Ok...I did fail to mention something about the rear toe-in....

When assembling the rear end, YOU MUST TAKE CARE ON HOW IT'S ASSEMBLED!!!! Everyone having this problem MAY be doing the same thing I did on my first kit....

1) Install the R block.

2) Slide the hinge pins through the arms and into the R block.

3) Now, here's the clincher....DO NOT SLIDE THE R3+2 (or whichever block you use) ONTO ONE HINGE PIN AND THE STRETCH IT OVER TO FIT THE OTHER!!!!!! This is where alot of people are elongating one hole to make it fit the other side, causing MORE toe in on one side of the car than the other.

To correctly fit this piece, you must place it near the rear of the car and push both arms toward the center of the car, thus, sliding BOTH hinge pins toward the center of the car, and this will make BOTH side flex slightly to fit the rear hinge pin mount. If you insert one hinge pin and flex it over to fit the other, you are drastically flexing ONE side, instead of slightly flexing both. Doing it this way WILL give you the correct amount of toe on each side.

The more toe, the more you will have to flex the INNER hinge pin mount (the R mount), so be careful. It is plastic, and it will elongate the hole if you stretch it too much.
Found it . Took forever though....thanks TP, that is what my problem is. Should I just go ahead and just replace the blocks?
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Old 03-28-2002, 09:02 AM   #1544
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I would, yes.

Also, as of 9:00am (my time), my Tuning Guide is up and running. Please check it out and let me know if there are any problems or discrepencies. There's a ton of info on there and, I'm sure, it's not ALL perfect....

www.competitionx.com

Go to the R/C Tuning section, then Tips from the Pros. It's soon to be changed to Tuning Guide.

Late!
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Old 03-28-2002, 09:33 AM   #1545
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No 1-way's allowed at the Reedy Race, Huh?? That sucks. the Tamiya track is large and open, almost designed for a 1-way. I can't even remember how to drive 4WD anymore.

Phalen - you gotta tell me what idea you have with the front diff later.
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