14LikesTamiya F104 Pro!
02-21-2011, 03:20 PM
#4622
02-22-2011, 08:06 AM
#4625
i agree, i like my 104 better also. it looks better, the front end is more adjustable, and it looks way cooler, but i think everybody is going back to the 103 because on some tracks it is faster when it comes to actual lap times. it seems easier to get a fast lap with the car. you can go fast with the 104, but its a lot more work. the 103 works right out of the box.
02-22-2011, 01:51 PM
#4627
It really is sad that HPI has become a company that tosses out a car, comes out with a few hop ups and then completely stops developing or improving it.
A lot of people went back to F103's because they are easier to drive. You have that shorter wheelbase and wider track (20mm is a lot) that really makes the car stable. Though the F104 with a shimmed rear end and F103 front is really good too. You basically just have a long wheelbase F103 at that point. For scale appearance the F104 is great, its just not the fastest
A lot of people went back to F103's because they are easier to drive. You have that shorter wheelbase and wider track (20mm is a lot) that really makes the car stable. Though the F104 with a shimmed rear end and F103 front is really good too. You basically just have a long wheelbase F103 at that point. For scale appearance the F104 is great, its just not the fastest
02-22-2011, 09:13 PM
#4628
It really is sad that HPI has become a company that tosses out a car, comes out with a few hop ups and then completely stops developing or improving it.
A lot of people went back to F103's because they are easier to drive. You have that shorter wheelbase and wider track (20mm is a lot) that really makes the car stable. Though the F104 with a shimmed rear end and F103 front is really good too. You basically just have a long wheelbase F103 at that point. For scale appearance the F104 is great, its just not the fastest
A lot of people went back to F103's because they are easier to drive. You have that shorter wheelbase and wider track (20mm is a lot) that really makes the car stable. Though the F104 with a shimmed rear end and F103 front is really good too. You basically just have a long wheelbase F103 at that point. For scale appearance the F104 is great, its just not the fastest
02-22-2011, 09:28 PM
#4629
Lotus 79 anyone?[IMG]
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First $400 gets it shipped to their door looking just like this chassis and all with full bearings an all stainless steel hardware.
Going to build another when this one leaves
PM me for anything you might need
[/IMG][IMG][/IMG][IMG]
[/IMG]First $400 gets it shipped to their door looking just like this chassis and all with full bearings an all stainless steel hardware.
Going to build another when this one leaves
PM me for anything you might need
02-23-2011, 07:54 AM
#4630
Anyone can advise how I can make the Shimizu rubber to work. Both F&R sets are medium running on low traction asphalt. Track temp 40-45 deg c. The car just spins out at corner entrance. With status quo on setup it runs perfect on stock medium Tamiya rubber tires. Shock & damper on soft setup. Ride height 4.5mm.
02-23-2011, 08:07 AM
#4631
Anyone can advise how I can make the Shimizu rubber to work. Both F&R sets are medium running on low traction asphalt. Track temp 40-45 deg c. The car just spins out at corner entrance. With status quo on setup it runs perfect on stock medium Tamiya rubber tires. Shock & damper on soft setup. Ride height 4.5mm.
Last edited by John.C; 02-23-2011 at 10:05 AM. Reason: Corrected page #
02-23-2011, 10:36 AM
#4633
You can buy axle shims that are commonly used for any Pan car and put the shims between the spacer and bearing on one side and between the axle and bearing on the spur/pinion side. You may need to widen the flats on the axle to ensure the set screws hold well when everything is shimmed. I added about 4mm rear track width. My brother added about 6mm (using a different spacer instead of shims) and found it worked well to make the car more stable.
See his setup here:
See his setup here:
Heres the base setup I ran for the last couple of races and some pics. 
Exotek F104 Chassis (Rubber Tires on High Traction Carpet)
Front:
4mm ride height
Ride Type A tires (F103)
Savox low profile servo
F103 Carbon Reinforced front suspension
14 grams over the front wing
3k dampening oil on spring
Medium stiffness springs
Captured and cut down front springs (car dips less on corner entry)
Steering end links as level as possible (no bump steer)
rear servo mount screws dont go through the chassis (more front end flex)
Center
Tekin RS
Protek 5000mah
Shock- 3 hole, 40 wt oil, white f104 kit spring
crc light blue side spring
55 wt side damper oil
Ride height 4mm
Rear:
ride height 4mm
LRP x-12
Pinion 31
Spur 88
6mm rear axle spacing
Diff almost locked solid
Shimizu soft tires (F104)
Ugly clear wing
Exotek F104 Chassis (Rubber Tires on High Traction Carpet)
Front:
4mm ride height
Ride Type A tires (F103)
Savox low profile servo
F103 Carbon Reinforced front suspension
14 grams over the front wing
3k dampening oil on spring
Medium stiffness springs
Captured and cut down front springs (car dips less on corner entry)
Steering end links as level as possible (no bump steer)
rear servo mount screws dont go through the chassis (more front end flex)
Center
Tekin RS
Protek 5000mah
Shock- 3 hole, 40 wt oil, white f104 kit spring
crc light blue side spring
55 wt side damper oil
Ride height 4mm
Rear:
ride height 4mm
LRP x-12
Pinion 31
Spur 88
6mm rear axle spacing
Diff almost locked solid
Shimizu soft tires (F104)
Ugly clear wing
02-23-2011, 11:24 AM
#4635
You need to play with ride height, T bar, shock setup, toe out etc. to make this car push when throttle is applied.
It will naturally push like a bulldozer entering corners and then go ass first as soon as you gas it to exit a corner.
Get the rear end low and the front end hi, motorboat style.
Get the softest rear tires and go from there.
Use brake to get it to turn in and expo to let it "ease" onto the power.