14LikesTamiya F104 Pro!
07-30-2010, 06:41 PM
#3077
07-30-2010, 06:44 PM
#3078
Hi guys,
Quick question, what is your preferred default gear ratio when you go to any new track. Assuming that the track is moderate in size with 50 - 70m straights and normal technical sections.
The stock ratio for F104 Pro is 104 spur and 25 pinion which gives 4.16.
I notice most guys at my track are running around 5 and above. ie. 105/21 or higher ratios.
Give give me your ratios will suffice. Thanks a lot.
Quick question, what is your preferred default gear ratio when you go to any new track. Assuming that the track is moderate in size with 50 - 70m straights and normal technical sections.
The stock ratio for F104 Pro is 104 spur and 25 pinion which gives 4.16.
I notice most guys at my track are running around 5 and above. ie. 105/21 or higher ratios.
Give give me your ratios will suffice. Thanks a lot.
I am running 104/24 with foams, and I should probably go down a tooth on the pinion as the motor is coming off pretty hot
07-31-2010, 12:06 AM
#3079
UF1 Series
2nd annual Ultimate F1 Series Day...
September 25th Camarillo
ALL F1 DAY...
http://www.charleslightfoot.com/UF1SD.html
September 25th Camarillo
ALL F1 DAY...
http://www.charleslightfoot.com/UF1SD.html
07-31-2010, 05:44 AM
#3080
check mine below
Yeah, I've seen the Corally one too - I'll stick with my F102.
07-31-2010, 07:33 AM
#3081
That is a very nice example of an F109 shell, and from the angle it looks quite scale. But IMHO its too wide, the rear wing is too big and the nose cone is too long. It's just my opinion and I'll admit its the superior car in terms of raceability, but in terms of looks I just think its a bit odd. Kudos on the shell though.
Yeah, I've seen the Corally one too - I'll stick with my F102.
Yeah, I've seen the Corally one too - I'll stick with my F102.
I'm trying to get my F102 back to life (got it on atradeand I know this is an f104 ) anyways, I think all I needis the rear diff, my ??? is will the f104 or 103 diff work? tnx.
07-31-2010, 08:15 AM
#3083
I have all the part numbers I think - get in touch if you want any.
07-31-2010, 01:02 PM
#3084
Thanks.
08-02-2010, 04:07 AM
#3085
Ive been using the 93T .04 spur with either a 23t or a 25t pinion depending on the night really... (mind you we race with either a tamiya sport tuned motor OR a 17.5t brushless)
Drive ratios of:
93t/23t - 4.04
93t/25t - 3.72
Car comes off WARM - with me pushing it consistanly for the 5min qualifiers/races
Track i race on is asphalt with medium flow with a good 40metre odd straight and some real nice tight corners/chicanes... find it works great with the RIDE medium rubber tyres i run front/rear with the soft t bar tamiya option.
Plenty of veteran racers at this place with plenty of F103GT/RM racecars... not to mention ample amounts of experience over me; being the only 104 driver there im doing quite well!.... 6th place out of 24 for this season (my first season in with the car too!)
Drive ratios of:
93t/23t - 4.04
93t/25t - 3.72
Car comes off WARM - with me pushing it consistanly for the 5min qualifiers/races
Track i race on is asphalt with medium flow with a good 40metre odd straight and some real nice tight corners/chicanes... find it works great with the RIDE medium rubber tyres i run front/rear with the soft t bar tamiya option.
Plenty of veteran racers at this place with plenty of F103GT/RM racecars... not to mention ample amounts of experience over me; being the only 104 driver there im doing quite well!.... 6th place out of 24 for this season (my first season in with the car too!)
08-02-2010, 04:10 AM
#3086
As shadow before me has said, the spur gear, thrust assembly, diff plates and diff balls are the same. The outer hub is different however shadow is correct - both hub types are supplied in a pack. The rear axle is different, as is the motor mount but I believe the back part of the back box at least is the same.
I have all the part numbers I think - get in touch if you want any.
I have all the part numbers I think - get in touch if you want any.
08-03-2010, 08:27 AM
#3087
For guys who want to run brick style lipos:
I bought this car knowing that it doesn't fully "fit". But after some modifications, it's quite easy.
The kit recommends that 2 posts are used between the upper and lower deck. These posts serve as pivot points for the radio trays. The issue with a high capacity brick pack is that the battery is too wide for the trays to go on the posts (because the hinges on the trays get in the way).
Solution:
1) Cut the hinges off the radio trays
2) Clip the trays to the posts (it'll still "clip", as the hinges are now a "C" shape instead of an "O" shape).
3) CA glue the bottom of the trays to the lower deck to keep the trays stable
Because we are not using the posts for swiveling radio trays, I recommend to install the other 2 remaining optional chassis posts. I secured all posts with lower screws only (on the pro model) for more chassis flex for tarmac use.
Lastly, the battery is oriented in such a way that the plugs are at the front of the chassis. I dremeled the top deck from the outside to allow room for bullet connects to plug into the chassis with *no interference from the top deck*. You need to ensure there is no interference as carbon is not an insulator.
Took the car for a maiden run a few days ago. Kit settings up front (save for 3.5mm offset knuckles), high traction t bar, red spring on 3 hole piston with 40wt oil, the car was dialed.
Traction was so good that it can be driven pretty carelessly and the car is still planted. I tightened the rear damper significantly more than what the kit recommends and the car has much less off power understeer then out of the box. I read type B foams are better for tarmac, but so far the type A's are surprisingly good. This most certainly is much more drivable than my old f103 (mind you, i had one many, many years back). Shocking how drivable this is on a medium traction outdoor surface
bump steer is an issue though, and short of going to a shorter servo horn, i cannot fix this as my servo is huge.
I bought this car knowing that it doesn't fully "fit". But after some modifications, it's quite easy.
The kit recommends that 2 posts are used between the upper and lower deck. These posts serve as pivot points for the radio trays. The issue with a high capacity brick pack is that the battery is too wide for the trays to go on the posts (because the hinges on the trays get in the way).
Solution:
1) Cut the hinges off the radio trays
2) Clip the trays to the posts (it'll still "clip", as the hinges are now a "C" shape instead of an "O" shape).
3) CA glue the bottom of the trays to the lower deck to keep the trays stable
Because we are not using the posts for swiveling radio trays, I recommend to install the other 2 remaining optional chassis posts. I secured all posts with lower screws only (on the pro model) for more chassis flex for tarmac use.
Lastly, the battery is oriented in such a way that the plugs are at the front of the chassis. I dremeled the top deck from the outside to allow room for bullet connects to plug into the chassis with *no interference from the top deck*. You need to ensure there is no interference as carbon is not an insulator.
Took the car for a maiden run a few days ago. Kit settings up front (save for 3.5mm offset knuckles), high traction t bar, red spring on 3 hole piston with 40wt oil, the car was dialed.
Traction was so good that it can be driven pretty carelessly and the car is still planted. I tightened the rear damper significantly more than what the kit recommends and the car has much less off power understeer then out of the box. I read type B foams are better for tarmac, but so far the type A's are surprisingly good. This most certainly is much more drivable than my old f103 (mind you, i had one many, many years back). Shocking how drivable this is on a medium traction outdoor surface
bump steer is an issue though, and short of going to a shorter servo horn, i cannot fix this as my servo is huge.
08-03-2010, 09:29 AM
#3088
For guys who want to run brick style lipos:
I bought this car knowing that it doesn't fully "fit". But after some modifications, it's quite easy.
The kit recommends that 2 posts are used between the upper and lower deck. These posts serve as pivot points for the radio trays. The issue with a high capacity brick pack is that the battery is too wide for the trays to go on the posts (because the hinges on the trays get in the way).
Solution:
1) Cut the hinges off the radio trays
2) Clip the trays to the posts (it'll still "clip", as the hinges are now a "C" shape instead of an "O" shape).
3) CA glue the bottom of the trays to the lower deck to keep the trays stable
Because we are not using the posts for swiveling radio trays, I recommend to install the other 2 remaining optional chassis posts. I secured all posts with lower screws only (on the pro model) for more chassis flex for tarmac use.
Lastly, the battery is oriented in such a way that the plugs are at the front of the chassis. I dremeled the top deck from the outside to allow room for bullet connects to plug into the chassis with *no interference from the top deck*. You need to ensure there is no interference as carbon is not an insulator.
Took the car for a maiden run a few days ago. Kit settings up front (save for 3.5mm offset knuckles), high traction t bar, red spring on 3 hole piston with 40wt oil, the car was dialed.
Traction was so good that it can be driven pretty carelessly and the car is still planted. I tightened the rear damper significantly more than what the kit recommends and the car has much less off power understeer then out of the box. I read type B foams are better for tarmac, but so far the type A's are surprisingly good. This most certainly is much more drivable than my old f103 (mind you, i had one many, many years back). Shocking how drivable this is on a medium traction outdoor surface
bump steer is an issue though, and short of going to a shorter servo horn, i cannot fix this as my servo is huge.
I bought this car knowing that it doesn't fully "fit". But after some modifications, it's quite easy.
The kit recommends that 2 posts are used between the upper and lower deck. These posts serve as pivot points for the radio trays. The issue with a high capacity brick pack is that the battery is too wide for the trays to go on the posts (because the hinges on the trays get in the way).
Solution:
1) Cut the hinges off the radio trays
2) Clip the trays to the posts (it'll still "clip", as the hinges are now a "C" shape instead of an "O" shape).
3) CA glue the bottom of the trays to the lower deck to keep the trays stable
Because we are not using the posts for swiveling radio trays, I recommend to install the other 2 remaining optional chassis posts. I secured all posts with lower screws only (on the pro model) for more chassis flex for tarmac use.
Lastly, the battery is oriented in such a way that the plugs are at the front of the chassis. I dremeled the top deck from the outside to allow room for bullet connects to plug into the chassis with *no interference from the top deck*. You need to ensure there is no interference as carbon is not an insulator.
Took the car for a maiden run a few days ago. Kit settings up front (save for 3.5mm offset knuckles), high traction t bar, red spring on 3 hole piston with 40wt oil, the car was dialed.
Traction was so good that it can be driven pretty carelessly and the car is still planted. I tightened the rear damper significantly more than what the kit recommends and the car has much less off power understeer then out of the box. I read type B foams are better for tarmac, but so far the type A's are surprisingly good. This most certainly is much more drivable than my old f103 (mind you, i had one many, many years back). Shocking how drivable this is on a medium traction outdoor surface
bump steer is an issue though, and short of going to a shorter servo horn, i cannot fix this as my servo is huge.
08-03-2010, 01:55 PM
#3089
Tech Adept
Lotus 79
Found this on Tamiya America website. They say it is coming soon. The Lotus 79 has been judged as the most beautiful F1 car ever and was known as "Black Beauty", and every single-seat racing car since then owes it's overall design to this car; it was that influential!
This is for the Tamiya F104 the same as the Wolf WR1
This is for the Tamiya F104 the same as the Wolf WR1
08-03-2010, 07:46 PM
#3090
What's size of bearing is 1280 or BG1?