14LikesTamiya F104 Pro!
11-25-2009, 12:41 AM
#1576
Have you painted your body?
11-25-2009, 05:41 AM
#1577
Ferari F60
and this!
I love it
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=58447
http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gi....4200483829..1
http://www.youtube.com/user/maxtamiya
I love it
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=58447
http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gi....4200483829..1
http://www.youtube.com/user/maxtamiya
Last edited by maxtamiya; 11-25-2009 at 05:54 AM.
11-25-2009, 08:14 AM
#1579
F1 Race Sunday 11/29 at WCRC
Bring out the F104 
UF1 Format changes for Sunday Nov. 29
We will be running the same Super Qual + 3 mains at WCRC on Sunday with the following changes:
Rubber and foam run together. The story is that this track will hook up with foam as well as rubber. Bring it. Race it. Prove it.
Chassis/Motor rules:
Direct rear wheel drive 1/10 scale open wheel car (F1 style)
540 sized motors silver can, black can, TCS 32 turn, or 21.5BL
SQ
Due to popular demand, qualifier will be open track instead of multiple 2 minute groups. Just put your car down and drive as fast as you can. We will limit the number of drivers on the track at any given time to 5 or less. After 4-5 minutes time will be called and drivers will pull aside for the next 5 drivers. Qualifying order will be randomly determined (but you can swap with anyone who is willing). If we have 15 or more drivers, the qualifying time will be extended beyond 15 minutes. Drivers might have an opportunity to make a second run at a fast lap if we have enough time and open slots.
Three things to think about for the SQ.
1) Time will be limited between the SQ and the first main to recharge batteries or cool you motor
2) Fast qualifier gets an extra point added to his/her score (yes, it does make a difference)
3) Grid order of first main will be based upon fast lap in the SQ
If we have a turnout of 14 or less drivers, we will run one group all together.
If we have 15 or more we will try something different for DNF and DNS drivers from the higher main groups. If you are in the A group and can not make the grid (DNS) or complete 8 laps (DNF) you will have an opportunity to run at the back of the B group. Although you will receive no score for that round, a good run with the B group can place you in the A group for the next round. If you are in the last group and DNF or DNS TL (tough luck).
OTHER THINGS TO CONSIDER:
Doors open at 10
Sign in closes and drivers meeting at 11
SQ at 11:30
Third round HAS to be done before 3:00 for off road, so this will be very fast paced if we end up with two race groups
Track will be open practice between rounds
SoCal UF1 scoring format (ask if you don't know where to find it)
UF1 Format changes for Sunday Nov. 29
We will be running the same Super Qual + 3 mains at WCRC on Sunday with the following changes:
Rubber and foam run together. The story is that this track will hook up with foam as well as rubber. Bring it. Race it. Prove it.
Chassis/Motor rules:
Direct rear wheel drive 1/10 scale open wheel car (F1 style)
540 sized motors silver can, black can, TCS 32 turn, or 21.5BL
SQ
Due to popular demand, qualifier will be open track instead of multiple 2 minute groups. Just put your car down and drive as fast as you can. We will limit the number of drivers on the track at any given time to 5 or less. After 4-5 minutes time will be called and drivers will pull aside for the next 5 drivers. Qualifying order will be randomly determined (but you can swap with anyone who is willing). If we have 15 or more drivers, the qualifying time will be extended beyond 15 minutes. Drivers might have an opportunity to make a second run at a fast lap if we have enough time and open slots.
Three things to think about for the SQ.
1) Time will be limited between the SQ and the first main to recharge batteries or cool you motor
2) Fast qualifier gets an extra point added to his/her score (yes, it does make a difference)
3) Grid order of first main will be based upon fast lap in the SQ
If we have a turnout of 14 or less drivers, we will run one group all together.
If we have 15 or more we will try something different for DNF and DNS drivers from the higher main groups. If you are in the A group and can not make the grid (DNS) or complete 8 laps (DNF) you will have an opportunity to run at the back of the B group. Although you will receive no score for that round, a good run with the B group can place you in the A group for the next round. If you are in the last group and DNF or DNS TL (tough luck).
OTHER THINGS TO CONSIDER:
Doors open at 10
Sign in closes and drivers meeting at 11
SQ at 11:30
Third round HAS to be done before 3:00 for off road, so this will be very fast paced if we end up with two race groups
Track will be open practice between rounds
SoCal UF1 scoring format (ask if you don't know where to find it)
11-25-2009, 08:49 AM
#1580
Tech Master
iTrader: (35)
toybreaker:
I use the Orion LiPo cells in my F104. Since I already had 6 of these packs, I didn't really want to purchase additional cells.
Basically, I mount the pack with the battery connections at the back of the chassis. See photo.
Regarding electronics... I'm brainstorming another method of mounting and protecting the electronics. During a race 2 weeks ago, my F104 got turned around on the track. As a result, my car was hit broadside. This impact totally destroyed my Rx case. See photo. I'm glad that it was the Rx and not the ESC.
I'm going to try a side mount that has a little flex so as to reduce the possibility of my electronics being destroyed.
Last, our indoor track is smooth, flat and extremely high traction asphalt. I have found that my car handles best with all 4 post installed. It means that I have to remove 2 post to charge the battery though.
I use the Orion LiPo cells in my F104. Since I already had 6 of these packs, I didn't really want to purchase additional cells.
Basically, I mount the pack with the battery connections at the back of the chassis. See photo.
Regarding electronics... I'm brainstorming another method of mounting and protecting the electronics. During a race 2 weeks ago, my F104 got turned around on the track. As a result, my car was hit broadside. This impact totally destroyed my Rx case. See photo. I'm glad that it was the Rx and not the ESC.
I'm going to try a side mount that has a little flex so as to reduce the possibility of my electronics being destroyed.
Last, our indoor track is smooth, flat and extremely high traction asphalt. I have found that my car handles best with all 4 post installed. It means that I have to remove 2 post to charge the battery though.
11-25-2009, 09:16 AM
#1581
Yepp, painted. Makes it tough to see clearences
I saw your posted when digging for ideas. I really like the shorter top plate but i am concerned about making the bottom plate more vulnerable to breaking without the extra rigidity.
Geppetto
Thanks man, that helps a ton. I thought about going in backwards but assumed (i know, i know) it wouldn't work. If i put that pack in forward I was going to have to notch the top plate on the sides, possibly making a weak spot. I like it in the back like that. I can notch the back and do it wide enough to fit the Orion 3800 or the Reedy 5000. the only concern is the width of the 5000 with the swing out pods but i will figure that out.
Thanks everyone so much for the tips. I really want this done right and feel i have some great info and pics to lean on.
toybreaker:
I use the Orion LiPo cells in my F104. Since I already had 6 of these packs, I didn't really want to purchase additional cells.
Basically, I mount the pack with the battery connections at the back of the chassis. See photo.
Regarding electronics... I'm brainstorming another method of mounting and protecting the electronics. During a race 2 weeks ago, my F104 got turned around on the track. As a result, my car was hit broadside. This impact totally destroyed my Rx case. See photo. I'm glad that it was the Rx and not the ESC.
I'm going to try a side mount that has a little flex so as to reduce the possibility of my electronics being destroyed.
Last, our indoor track is smooth, flat and extremely high traction asphalt. I have found that my car handles best with all 4 post installed. It means that I have to remove 2 post to charge the battery though.
I use the Orion LiPo cells in my F104. Since I already had 6 of these packs, I didn't really want to purchase additional cells.
Basically, I mount the pack with the battery connections at the back of the chassis. See photo.
Regarding electronics... I'm brainstorming another method of mounting and protecting the electronics. During a race 2 weeks ago, my F104 got turned around on the track. As a result, my car was hit broadside. This impact totally destroyed my Rx case. See photo. I'm glad that it was the Rx and not the ESC.
I'm going to try a side mount that has a little flex so as to reduce the possibility of my electronics being destroyed.
Last, our indoor track is smooth, flat and extremely high traction asphalt. I have found that my car handles best with all 4 post installed. It means that I have to remove 2 post to charge the battery though.
Thanks man, that helps a ton. I thought about going in backwards but assumed (i know, i know) it wouldn't work. If i put that pack in forward I was going to have to notch the top plate on the sides, possibly making a weak spot. I like it in the back like that. I can notch the back and do it wide enough to fit the Orion 3800 or the Reedy 5000. the only concern is the width of the 5000 with the swing out pods but i will figure that out.
Thanks everyone so much for the tips. I really want this done right and feel i have some great info and pics to lean on.
11-25-2009, 01:27 PM
#1582
Tech Master
iTrader: (35)
Geppetto
Thanks man, that helps a ton. I thought about going in backwards but assumed (i know, i know) it wouldn't work. If i put that pack in forward I was going to have to notch the top plate on the sides, possibly making a weak spot. I like it in the back like that. I can notch the back and do it wide enough to fit the Orion 3800 or the Reedy 5000. the only concern is the width of the 5000 with the swing out pods but i will figure that out.
Thanks everyone so much for the tips. I really want this done right and feel i have some great info and pics to lean on.
Thanks man, that helps a ton. I thought about going in backwards but assumed (i know, i know) it wouldn't work. If i put that pack in forward I was going to have to notch the top plate on the sides, possibly making a weak spot. I like it in the back like that. I can notch the back and do it wide enough to fit the Orion 3800 or the Reedy 5000. the only concern is the width of the 5000 with the swing out pods but i will figure that out.
Thanks everyone so much for the tips. I really want this done right and feel i have some great info and pics to lean on.
11-26-2009, 06:38 AM
#1583
I'm going to try to figure out a way to eliminate the "swing-out" pods. Since I'm using all 4 post I have to remove two of the posts to get the pods to rotate anyway. I would like to charge the pack in the car. However, our track requires charging batteries in a LiPo sack.
Take the top deck off to change a pack.
I don't use the hinge on the rear of the F109 top deck as it causes a tweak in the chassis, I now leave that part disconnected and use only the centre supports and the front supports (this is for outdoors on a wet and slippery track)
11-26-2009, 11:12 AM
#1584
Tamiya Mesh wheel for rubber tire monday arrive !
11-26-2009, 05:38 PM
#1585
Anyone tried these for size? Was just wondering if they will fit F201 and/or HPI F10 Bridgestone tyres?
Also I am assuming the wheel fitting for F103, F104 and 3Racing F109 are all the same?
Also I am assuming the wheel fitting for F103, F104 and 3Racing F109 are all the same?
Last edited by forum fodder; 11-26-2009 at 06:18 PM.
11-26-2009, 06:46 PM
#1586
Anyone need a body?
Just wanted to give everyone a heads up, I have pre-ordered 5 Ferrari F60 bodies and the paint to paint them from my LHS.
I dont have an arrival date or a price for the bodies, but I know this is a highly anticipated release, so I thought I would get ahead of the game.
If anyone is interested in having one of these done, PM me to make arrangements. I currently have 5 jobs in the que in various states of completion, so work would not start until those jobs are complete.
I also just took delivery of 3 more 104 bodies and I have a ton of decal sheets, PM for details
I dont have an arrival date or a price for the bodies, but I know this is a highly anticipated release, so I thought I would get ahead of the game.
If anyone is interested in having one of these done, PM me to make arrangements. I currently have 5 jobs in the que in various states of completion, so work would not start until those jobs are complete.
I also just took delivery of 3 more 104 bodies and I have a ton of decal sheets, PM for details
11-26-2009, 07:51 PM
#1587
11-26-2009, 08:10 PM
#1588
Newb
Hey Everyone,
I've been eyeing the F104 to race at the local carpet track. The only other on-road car I have is a M05, that I have been tuning and racing weekly with good success.
I've done some research and have a few questions.
How easy is the car to set up? The local track is here is quite bumpy, I plan to run the car purely on carpet and with foam tires.
How tough are these cars? I still do kiss the barrier every now and then.
How is maintenance?
Any info would be most appreciated.
Thanks
I've been eyeing the F104 to race at the local carpet track. The only other on-road car I have is a M05, that I have been tuning and racing weekly with good success.
I've done some research and have a few questions.
How easy is the car to set up? The local track is here is quite bumpy, I plan to run the car purely on carpet and with foam tires.
How tough are these cars? I still do kiss the barrier every now and then.
How is maintenance?
Any info would be most appreciated.
Thanks
11-26-2009, 09:36 PM
#1590
Hey Everyone,
I've been eyeing the F104 to race at the local carpet track. The only other on-road car I have is a M05, that I have been tuning and racing weekly with good success.
I've done some research and have a few questions.
How easy is the car to set up? The local track is here is quite bumpy, I plan to run the car purely on carpet and with foam tires.
How tough are these cars? I still do kiss the barrier every now and then.
How is maintenance?
Any info would be most appreciated.
Thanks
I've been eyeing the F104 to race at the local carpet track. The only other on-road car I have is a M05, that I have been tuning and racing weekly with good success.
I've done some research and have a few questions.
How easy is the car to set up? The local track is here is quite bumpy, I plan to run the car purely on carpet and with foam tires.
How tough are these cars? I still do kiss the barrier every now and then.
How is maintenance?
Any info would be most appreciated.
Thanks
1- There is not a ton of stuff to adjust on this chassis, but some settings are very sensitive to change, so its not hard to set up, but not easy to setup right
2- Durability is not an issue
3- Maintenance is no worst than any other chassis, just need to keep an eye on all the bearings to make sure they stay spinning free