Oortael

I'm wondering what the people have expected when they bought their F104.
It's wheelbase is grater, has smaller tread and narrower tires in the rear.

Based on these conditions:

1. If you run the car out of the box, it will be slow in corners and fast on straight lines.
2. Acceleration must be charched well.

These Advanteges/Disadvanteges are charactaristics of the design of the car, which depends on the look of the latest F1 cars.

So I guess that a F104s can beat F103s on a high speed track with lots of staight lines and will loose most of the races on a track with lots of corners.

My conclusion is to go with that or change to a TRF416 or something.
But I definitely won't spend 500 bucks for a rc car.

heretic

Nice video and music...

Kyosho also had a 1/10th pan car f1 , named "impress". Don't know if it made it to the market though... I saw it in a kyosho catalog ten years ago at least (it had yellow and black panasonics in it !)

It had an ugly plastic front upper plate but if I remember well it had a fully adjustable front end à la trinity sv10 or speedmerchant rev5

heretic

double post

robk

iTrader: (22)

JayL

I highly doubt the F104 was designed with lipo in mind, especially since they don't run it in Japan.

rtypec

iTrader: (2)

Lipo friendly upper deck is in the works

*edit* or maybe not

gsxr0311

iTrader: (19)

well i thought just like everybody else that if tamiya released a new f1 car it would be better than the old one. is that not the point of releasing something new ? pretty much everything in todays society that is new was made with the intent of it being better that the previous one unless otherwise stated. some how i thought the new longer narrower car would be better than the old. i guess i assumed tamiya did their homework and made a better out of the box car than the 15th anv f103. they even called it the pro version. so does that mean the next version will be slower because its not the pro.

i am excited to get my paws on the f60 because of the scale looks but i dont expect it to be any better.

linger

iTrader: (1)

from Tamiya Japan, Tamiya USA or Other.

svines1972

iTrader: (26)

Fat500 - thanks for the set up tips, I will try them.

I am still trying to understand the different adjustments and what the effects are. So if someone has the time, please define these adjustments and effects.

I am new to pan cars and having a problem finding tuning tips on the F104. I raced this weekend and I was totally lost on what adjustments to use to correct the problems I was having, Example - end of straight into sweeper I experienced a serious push among other things. I was hoping someone could give me the basics regarding the effect on some of the adjustments available.

1) Shock adjustment - tighter vs looser
2) Damper - tighter vs looser
3) Front Springs - Silver vs Gold vs Black
4) Rear Ride Height - Lower vs Higher
5) Camber - 1 towards rear vs 2 towards rear
6) T Bar - Stock vs Soft Option
7) T bar - Pivot joint loose vs tight
8) Shock Oil - heavier vs lighter weight

MaxSp97

iTrader: (5)

This from Team X-Ray link:
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...ame=XRAY%20XII

Read the Setup Book.

rtypec

iTrader: (2)

Pictures of an upper deck

veecee

iTrader: (34)

I'll try and explain based on what I have learnt over the past few months...

1) Shock adjustment - tighter vs looser
Spring preload for rear. This will alter how the rear end compresses under acceleration and over bumps. So the looser it is, the easier it is to compress although the spring rate itself is not affected. So looser will give more rear traction and therefore less steering.

2) Damper - tighter vs looser
Control how quickly the rear pivots from side to side - ie response under roll (and under certain bumps). Looser will therefore give more rear traction but will also be slower when changing direction quickly.

3) Front Springs - Silver vs Gold vs Black
Silver is soft (more steering), Gold is med and Black is stiff (less steering).

4) Rear Ride Height - Lower vs Higher
Higher will transfer more weight to the front and generally give more steering.

5) Camber - 1 towards rear vs 2 towards rear
Affects tyre wear and steering response. 1 towards rear is 0 deg and 2 is -1 deg (as per manual). -1 deg should give make tyre wear more even and give a touch more steering most of the time.

6) T Bar - Stock vs Soft Option
Stock is stiffer tan Soft. So stiff will make the rear end stiffer in roll, under acceleration and over bumps which reduces rear traction.

7) T bar - Pivot joint loose vs tight
Initial response of the rear end. Looser will make the rear end stick better.

8) Shock Oil - heavier vs lighter weight
Control how quickly the rear compresses fore and aft - ie response under acceleration and bump. So heavier will generally give less initial traction.

The biggest thing to remember is that anything to do with the T-bar will affect both cornering and acceleration. Whereas anything on the shock will not really affect cornering (apart from acceleration out of corner). This is why not running a shock spring seems to work well.

SRBMOJO

iTrader: (67)

I want one, is this something you made, or is a Tamiya part?

Steve

torg

spur gears, I have gone through 3 already, maybe due to all my crashing but it annoys me incredibly.

I also lost this: TAMIYA 4035046 F104 FRICTION DAMPER POST ADJUSTER NUT

I've seen others lose theirs on the track as well, I caked mine with anti-wear grease this time, hopefully that will keep it on.

torg

I use this battery and had to use my pliers a little on the battery plate (the one with the two snap pins). Nothing major.