Tamiya F104 Pro!
#7051
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
I should add a Thank You to Hiro.
That was the tip he gave me in Vegas, and it transformed an un-driveable car, into an easy to drive F1 car.
I didn't have any time to tune that car, so it was nice to have it work after a few simple adjustments like that.
Left it that way the rest of the week, decided it would be better just getting used to driving it the way it was after that.
That was the tip he gave me in Vegas, and it transformed an un-driveable car, into an easy to drive F1 car.
I didn't have any time to tune that car, so it was nice to have it work after a few simple adjustments like that.
Left it that way the rest of the week, decided it would be better just getting used to driving it the way it was after that.
#7052
Hold the car up in the air and loosen the center T plate screw, that's gonna add droop. Max droop will be with the center screw removed, just be sure to glue the o ring (or a pink foam for the shock) back in place or the ride height will drop a bunch and the belly will drag. For even more droop you can unscrew the shock shaft end to extend the overall length.
The X1 suggests putting an o ring under the piston to limit the overall length so unscrewing the shock end will allow you to get some of that length back.
Try going to 2000w on the damper, even wipe it off a bit after working it a little, just barely noticeable is how I run my side damper.
I also run soft spring with very little preload on the center shock.
The X1 suggests putting an o ring under the piston to limit the overall length so unscrewing the shock end will allow you to get some of that length back.
Try going to 2000w on the damper, even wipe it off a bit after working it a little, just barely noticeable is how I run my side damper.
I also run soft spring with very little preload on the center shock.
Issue I have with this car right now is that it doesn't want to turn in at all. It is increadibly tight. If I let off power and get the weight to transfer, it will turn real well and, if I allow too much transfer, she'll get very loose. Getting back on the power she also is loose. Want to netralize this car and get it's handling sorted out. I figured it was because I'm running it on REALLY bad pavement...increadibly dirty and increadibly rough...so I'll wait and see how it does this weekend at the Toys for Tots race in HB. Hope to see some of you down there. Look for me at the Force 10 Racing booth.
#7055
Tech Adept
F104X1 question.
Hello guys, I recently purchased a F104X1 kit in order start racing this class, I would like to know what are the recommended hop ups for this particular model during the assembly as well as for better all around performance, car is going to be raced on asphalt.
I noticed it comes with a steel shaft was wondering if maybe a CF one would come in handy?
I also noticed people tend to install a heavy pivot post, does the car comes with a metal black one or is it plastic/carbon reinforced?
I noticed it comes with a steel shaft was wondering if maybe a CF one would come in handy?
I also noticed people tend to install a heavy pivot post, does the car comes with a metal black one or is it plastic/carbon reinforced?
#7056
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
Hello guys, I recently purchased a F104X1 kit in order start racing this class, I would like to know what are the recommended hop ups for this particular model during the assembly as well as for better all around performance, car is going to be raced on asphalt.
I noticed it comes with a steel shaft was wondering if maybe a CF one would come in handy?
I also noticed people tend to install a heavy pivot post, does the car comes with a metal black one or is it plastic/carbon reinforced?
I noticed it comes with a steel shaft was wondering if maybe a CF one would come in handy?
I also noticed people tend to install a heavy pivot post, does the car comes with a metal black one or is it plastic/carbon reinforced?
http://uf1series.com/_sub_pages/2011/F104X.html
#7057
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
Hello guys, I recently purchased a F104X1 kit in order start racing this class, I would like to know what are the recommended hop ups for this particular model during the assembly as well as for better all around performance, car is going to be raced on asphalt.
I noticed it comes with a steel shaft was wondering if maybe a CF one would come in handy?
I also noticed people tend to install a heavy pivot post, does the car comes with a metal black one or is it plastic/carbon reinforced?
I noticed it comes with a steel shaft was wondering if maybe a CF one would come in handy?
I also noticed people tend to install a heavy pivot post, does the car comes with a metal black one or is it plastic/carbon reinforced?
Steel axle will help with rear traction on asphalt and will be the only axle you will probably ever need, very durable.
Get the Pit Shimizu 571 and 572 tires and everything else will be minor tuning aids.
Light lube on the side damper like 2000 diff lube, softest spring on the center shock and center screw on the T plate very loose or even removed (glue o ring in place tho) will all help with rear traction on asphalt.
From there you may only need to start working back in the other direction to regain steering.
It's gonna be a great car for you, good luck.
#7058
Tech Addict
iTrader: (14)
Hello guys, I recently purchased a F104X1 kit in order start racing this class, I would like to know what are the recommended hop ups for this particular model during the assembly as well as for better all around performance, car is going to be raced on asphalt.
I noticed it comes with a steel shaft was wondering if maybe a CF one would come in handy?
I also noticed people tend to install a heavy pivot post, does the car comes with a metal black one or is it plastic/carbon reinforced?
I noticed it comes with a steel shaft was wondering if maybe a CF one would come in handy?
I also noticed people tend to install a heavy pivot post, does the car comes with a metal black one or is it plastic/carbon reinforced?
Dave
#7059
Tech Adept
Thanks for the reply guys, Where I am going to race the guys most of them have F103, F103RM, and 3 F104 pro. A friend has a F104 and uses the pit shimizu, he told me the difference was night and day and since he sticks with those.
I noticed that the car comes with a carbon/plastic engine mount, is it a good idea to change it for the metal one as well as the metal pivot post? not sure if performance is going to be lost and currently concerned with the durability of the stock part.
Also since I have never built an electric rc just 1/8GT nitro. I would like to know if it comes with all the grease and stuff needed to build the diffs...
Thanks again!
I noticed that the car comes with a carbon/plastic engine mount, is it a good idea to change it for the metal one as well as the metal pivot post? not sure if performance is going to be lost and currently concerned with the durability of the stock part.
Also since I have never built an electric rc just 1/8GT nitro. I would like to know if it comes with all the grease and stuff needed to build the diffs...
Thanks again!
#7060
Tech Elite
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: 5280 Raceway. Denver's finest RC facility
Posts: 4,780
rubber.
thanks guys
#7061
kit has the supplies, metal mount and pivot will be beneficial.
#7062
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
by loosening the side roll, i would assume that you are talking about the dampening tube. i have run with it off. i have also narrowed the t plate trying to free it up that way as well. i have tried loosening the center screw, i will try that some more. and i will lengthen the shock as well
rubber.
thanks guys
rubber.
thanks guys
Rubber is kind of weird, the tires are pretty heavy compared to foam and do stuff that you would not think would happen compared with a WGT or 1/12. I have noticed the same as you that the car is easier to diff out. I think this may be partially due to the fact that rubber loses traction quicker, and the rotating mass is higher.
#7063
Tech Adept
Wanted to ask if a hard case lipo with the following dimensions will fit on a F104X1?
Dimensions: 137.5mm x 25.5mm x 46.5mm (5.4" x 1" x 1.8")
This is the pack: http://www.venom-group.com/Store/LiP...rdcse-ROAR-UNI
Dimensions: 137.5mm x 25.5mm x 46.5mm (5.4" x 1" x 1.8")
This is the pack: http://www.venom-group.com/Store/LiP...rdcse-ROAR-UNI
#7064
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
Wanted to ask if a hard case lipo with the following dimensions will fit on a F104X1?
Dimensions: 137.5mm x 25.5mm x 46.5mm (5.4" x 1" x 1.8")
This is the pack: http://www.venom-group.com/Store/LiP...rdcse-ROAR-UNI
Dimensions: 137.5mm x 25.5mm x 46.5mm (5.4" x 1" x 1.8")
This is the pack: http://www.venom-group.com/Store/LiP...rdcse-ROAR-UNI
That should keep your F1 running for a loooooong time.
Is runtime what you are after?
Several of us have been running 3800mah "shorty" batteries to allow for lighter weight and the ability to move the weight forward or back and are easily making runs of well over our 10 minutes required for Ultimate F1 races.
I'm not sure of the dimensions but the 5000mah square packs are a pretty tight fit but work in the 104 so I'd guess that the 5600 would be questionable and in my opinion unnecessary for extended runtime and especially unnecessary due to the added weight.
Somethings to consider.
#7065
This is what you need.
rsector.com
If you are in the states go here, f1paintlab.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=10_15&produ cts_id=52
Contact BP Shadow in this forum
rsector.com
If you are in the states go here, f1paintlab.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=10_15&produ cts_id=52
Contact BP Shadow in this forum