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Old 02-06-2017, 07:33 PM   #9331
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but to remove a shorty you'd still need to have one of the posts removed right? I was thinking using thumb screws to make it easier to remove instead of a button head. I prefer not to leave the shorty in when I'm not racing for safety reasons
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Old 02-06-2017, 08:32 PM   #9332
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but to remove a shorty you'd still need to have one of the posts removed right? I was thinking using thumb screws to make it easier to remove instead of a button head. I prefer not to leave the shorty in when I'm not racing for safety reasons
Alternatively you could remove the top deck. thumb screw would work fine but its really not any easier than a couple button or cap head screws that use the same size driver you already have out to service the car. I used to use regular buttons on the middle posts, leave out the stiffener forward posts and insert grub screws in the rear pivot to keep the top deck square but not rigid. This way I had maximum flex, could easily remove the top deck and battery while keeping the chassis tweak free. Most of the newer cars use a top plate or shock mount designed to hold the battery down secured with a couple of screws.
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Old 03-13-2017, 05:23 PM   #9333
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what benefit is there apart from reduced weight of the carbon drive shaft... would it make the rear more twitchy since it puts down the power quicker vs the steel?
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Old 03-15-2017, 03:49 AM   #9334
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Yes, it will make the rear end more difficult. I heard that and experienced it. I have the carbon axle back in the spares box. I do know people using it, and weighing down the rear pod with wheel balancing lead. Less inertia, better placed weight. I stick to the steel axle for now.

Another question; how do you guys wire your brushless setup so it doesn't hinder pod movement and clears the body? Here's mine:



But I''m not happy with it, yet. I'm also looking at thinner gauge, it's a 21.5T motor, but I'm not sure what the minimum would be. BTW, X1 rear suspension...

Cheers,

Hugo

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Old 03-15-2017, 05:21 AM   #9335
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Another question; how do you guys wire your brushless setup so it doesn't hinder pod movement and clears the body? Here's mine:
the same as you BUT with 16AWG wire.
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Old 03-15-2017, 05:52 AM   #9336
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Thanks. I have 14 gauge. What motor do you run? I have the 21.5T Juststock.

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Old 03-15-2017, 06:01 AM   #9337
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21.5 stock
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Old 03-15-2017, 07:04 AM   #9338
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16 gauge wire is more than enough for the 21.5 motor. Just make sure it is loose and not being pushed down when the body is on
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Old 03-15-2017, 07:44 AM   #9339
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TQ wire 16 gauge wire. It has a higher strand count which makes it more flexible. It's specifically designed for 1/12 stock, so it will work fine in F1.

Hugo, those wires look a little tight.
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Old 03-15-2017, 08:45 AM   #9340
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I need to move to the US... TQ I cannot seemto find here. Thanks for all the input. I'm also looking at a better quality / more flexible sensor lead...

Cheers,

Hugo
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Old 03-15-2017, 10:16 AM   #9341
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HugoW View Post
I'm also looking at a better quality / more flexible sensor lead...
Just stay in the Netherlands: https://hobbyking.com/nl_nl/catalog/...id/6833/?wrh=7
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Old 03-15-2017, 10:59 AM   #9342
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This is 16 gauge, and i've got all three and the sensor wire passing through there. Although I just realized the solder posts on your motor might prevent this routing.

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Old 03-15-2017, 01:10 PM   #9343
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Is it okay to dremel the top deck back just behind the antennae post for easier removal of the battery? Will it affect handing? This is the 104w
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Old 03-15-2017, 02:43 PM   #9344
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Why would you dremel it? You can just uscrew the post when you want to remove the battery. Those posts can be removed or added to tune the flex of the chassis. Dremel it ouy and you won't have that option anymore.
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Old 03-16-2017, 02:46 AM   #9345
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@viking44, thanks, that's an interesting routing. I think I can get away with it with my motor, too.

Cheers,

Hugo
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