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Old 12-08-2012, 10:32 PM   #9031
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Can someone link me to some wheels for the rubber tamiya tires? The foam ones that come with the kit dont have a lip on the inside to glue the tire to.
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Old 12-08-2012, 11:08 PM   #9032
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Can someone link me to some wheels for the rubber tamiya tires? The foam ones that come with the kit dont have a lip on the inside to glue the tire to.
If you are trying to mount the TCS spec tires, you dont need a lip, they cap over the front of the rim
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Old 12-08-2012, 11:20 PM   #9033
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If you are trying to mount the TCS spec tires, you dont need a lip, they cap over the front of the rim
Yeah the tcs tires. Can you post pics of both sides of the wheel with the tires mounted? I really dont wanna mess these up since they are so expensive.
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Old 12-09-2012, 04:36 AM   #9034
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Yeah the tcs tires. Can you post pics of both sides of the wheel with the tires mounted? I really dont wanna mess these up since they are so expensive.
Derek,

Those are the right wheels, I think they are the same as come with the v2. Here's a brief instruction to mount them: http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/product_view.asp Go to the Tamiya parts section and open up the 1032 or 1031 tire for the instructions. Or go to the Tamiya USA site and enter 1032 into the search panel. There is a picture on the Tamiya site.

It worked fine for me. I ordered the wheels for rubber tires but you need to trim off the outside lip from both side.
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Old 12-09-2012, 01:53 PM   #9035
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Thanks kredow, Rick also informed me about the wheel edges, ill get them rounded off before I mount the tires.

Next question, I'll be ordering t plates, and am looking at the 3racing sets. They offer them in standard and 1 piece designs. Which ones should I get, or should I stick with the tamiya high traction option part?
Also ordering an aluminum camber mount, tamiya, yeahracing, or 3racing?

And finally, after I break all the suspension arms I have (I know it will happen) is it worth while to get the Exetek adjustable arm set, or will this just move the weak point to a harder/more expensive part?

Sorry for all the noob questions, this is my first f1, and first pan car. If anyone has any suggestions on option parts/upgrades to make the f104pro more competitive/easier to drive I'm all ears. I'm not the greatest driver, so I'm trying to make this car as durable as possible without sacrificing performance. Luckily I have a great group of guys to race with who know a LOT about this stuff.
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Old 12-09-2012, 02:01 PM   #9036
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I'm up at the Track shaking down my F1. The tires are good and my lap times have been going down as I gain more confidence in the car.

Looks like I won't be able to make Hotslots next weekend too.
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Old 12-09-2012, 02:13 PM   #9037
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Next question, I'll be ordering t plates, and am looking at the 3racing sets. They offer them in standard and 1 piece designs. Which ones should I get, or should I stick with the tamiya high traction option part?
I like the standard 3 racing pieces, I tried the 3racing one piece and it just felt inconsistent on the track. Haven't tried the tamiya high traction part yet.

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Also ordering an aluminum camber mount, tamiya, yeahracing, or 3racing?
Tamiya, no question. I've not been a fan of yeah racing as of late, their stuff is just a little "off" and fitment is ever-so-slightly imperfect as compared to Tamiya. 3Racing, I have not tried, but their parts were always well-fitting compared to yeah racing, square,and Kose.

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And finally, after I break all the suspension arms I have (I know it will happen) is it worth while to get the Exetek adjustable arm set, or will this just move the weak point to a harder/more expensive part?
I like the exotek arms, but you need to find a way to make sure the measurements are accurate on both sides. I haven't tried the Hudy set up guages for pan cars, but I'm assuming that one will work and allow you to accurately measure caster/camber/toe on with the exotek arms.

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Sorry for all the noob questions, this is my first f1, and first pan car. If anyone has any suggestions on option parts/upgrades to make the f104pro more competitive/easier to drive I'm all ears. I'm not the greatest driver, so I'm trying to make this car as durable as possible without sacrificing performance. Luckily I have a great group of guys to race with who know a LOT about this stuff.
Have fun man! Best advice I can give you is to not drive it like a SC or touring car. Smooth, consistent lines and a smooth trigger discipline should yield good results!
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Old 12-09-2012, 05:56 PM   #9038
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Thanks kredow, Rick also informed me about the wheel edges, ill get them rounded off before I mount the tires.

Next question, I'll be ordering t plates, and am looking at the 3racing sets. They offer them in standard and 1 piece designs. Which ones should I get, or should I stick with the tamiya high traction option part?
Also ordering an aluminum camber mount, tamiya, yeahracing, or 3racing?

And finally, after I break all the suspension arms I have (I know it will happen) is it worth while to get the Exetek adjustable arm set, or will this just move the weak point to a harder/more expensive part?

Sorry for all the noob questions, this is my first f1, and first pan car. If anyone has any suggestions on option parts/upgrades to make the f104pro more competitive/easier to drive I'm all ears. I'm not the greatest driver, so I'm trying to make this car as durable as possible without sacrificing performance. Luckily I have a great group of guys to race with who know a LOT about this stuff.
The front end is actually pretty durable, you have to work to break them. If your going to run rubber tires, you may want to try the stock black t bar as well. Sometimes a little stiffer car is more stable with rubber tires.
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Old 12-09-2012, 06:25 PM   #9039
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The front end is actually pretty durable, you have to work to break them. If your going to run rubber tires, you may want to try the stock black t bar as well. Sometimes a little stiffer car is more stable with rubber tires.
I have the stock bar on there right now. I took it to the track yesterday to have other racers look it over and a couple guys noted how stiff the stock t bar is.

A heads up for anyone who is new to ball diffs, do NOT follow the tamiya manual and crank down the nut all the way! I was instructed to slowly tighten the nut while spinning the gear, this slowly seats the balls on the plates and prevents flat spots on the balls. I have never messed with a ball diff before, so I just followed the manual. Hopefully I didn't mess up the balls.

Anyone recommend a sensored esc to pair with my reedy 21.5? I was thinking novak, been happy with my VTA setup from them.
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Old 12-09-2012, 07:00 PM   #9040
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A heads up for anyone who is new to ball diffs, do NOT follow the tamiya manual and crank down the nut all the way! I was instructed to slowly tighten the nut while spinning the gear, this slowly seats the balls on the plates and prevents flat spots on the balls. I have never messed with a ball diff before, so I just followed the manual. Hopefully I didn't mess up the balls.

Anyone recommend a sensored esc to pair with my reedy 21.5? I was thinking novak, been happy with my VTA setup from them.
You're probably OK with the diff. It would require a lot of force to flatten the balls and if you used the included multi wrench to tighten the diff you will be safe because you really can't apply that much force with that wrench.

I have an extra set of 3mm balls you can have because I'm using standard 64P spurs with 1/8" balls.

If you're happy with the Novak Edge then get another, they're inexpensive. SpeedPassion and Hobbywing would be good too. I'm using a Tekin RS but then I have several of those.
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Old 12-09-2012, 08:16 PM   #9041
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You're probably OK with the diff. It would require a lot of force to flatten the balls and if you used the included multi wrench to tighten the diff you will be safe because you really can't apply that much force with that wrench.

I have an extra set of 3mm balls you can have because I'm using standard 64P spurs with 1/8" balls.

If you're happy with the Novak Edge then get another, they're inexpensive. SpeedPassion and Hobbywing would be good too. I'm using a Tekin RS but then I have several of those.
I'm running 64p gears too with 1/8" carbide balls. They should be ok, I didn't crank down too hard on the nut. I haven't had any issues with the edge esc and I like its small footprint, so I'm leaning that way.

What gear ratio you running? I put 100/30 to start off, see how that does.
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Old 12-09-2012, 08:25 PM   #9042
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I'm running 64p gears too with 1/8" carbide balls. They should be ok, I didn't crank down too hard on the nut. I haven't had any issues with the edge esc and I like its small footprint, so I'm leaning that way.

What gear ratio you running? I put 100/30 to start off, see how that does.
That's a tall 3.03 FDR you have there. What motor are you using? I'm using a 96/27 for a 3.55 FDR but I'm going to try a 3.42 FDR next week with a little more timing on my Tekin Redline 21.5 (it seemed a bit slow compared to the other guys').
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Old 12-09-2012, 08:30 PM   #9043
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That's a tall 3.03 FDR you have there. What motor are you using? I'm using a 96/27 for a 3.55 FDR but I'm going to try a 3.42 FDR next week with a little more timing on my Tekin Redline 21.5 (it seemed a bit slow compared to the other guys').
I thought pan cars have a 1.0 trans ratio, which would give me a 3.33 FDR. I could be wrong though, but I'm learning! Reedy sonic 21.5
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Old 12-09-2012, 08:34 PM   #9044
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I thought pan cars have a 1.0 trans ratio, which would give me a 3.33 FDR. I could be wrong though, but I'm learning! Reedy sonic 21.5
My mistake. I hit a zero instead of a 3.

Try it and if you feel it lacks punch in the infield then use a smaller pinion.
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Old 12-10-2012, 04:35 PM   #9045
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a 3.0 is fine for 21.5 f1. we run it all the time, especially rpm based motors
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