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Old 12-06-2012, 08:01 PM   #9016
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You have to shave the inside plastic so that the electronics side pods just clip onto the post.
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Old 12-06-2012, 08:22 PM   #9017
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You have to shave the inside plastic so that the electronics side pods just clip onto the post.
That doesn't seem very secure, any issues with them falling off? I'll give it a shot though.
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Old 12-07-2012, 07:09 AM   #9018
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I ground mine almost to a paper thin amount and have had no troubles at all, others have gone further and I've never seen any problems.
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Old 12-07-2012, 07:22 AM   #9019
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I converted my f104 pro with the lipo conversion, it does away with the top deck and replaces it with a smaller one, and the side pods are a different design.

Now that I'm going f1r, the conversion kit is for sale. I'm also selling the f104 pro top deck, main Chasis plate separately.
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Old 12-07-2012, 05:18 PM   #9020
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That doesn't seem very secure, any issues with them falling off? I'll give it a shot though.
i used mine with servo tape and stuck them to the battery and around the post as a holder
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Old 12-07-2012, 08:27 PM   #9021
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This was my solution, a piece of aluminum





The aluminum piece is held in with a thin piece of 3M double sided tape. There is a piece of foam behind the battery to keep it all the way forward. Just have to remove 2 of the chassis standoffs and the Rx to get the battery out. The Rx is held on with 3M dual lock, so it is removable. Much more secure than the stock plastic pods IMO.

I'll be swapping out that economy ESC with a sensored one soon enough!
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Old 12-07-2012, 08:39 PM   #9022
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Heya Captain

I would highly suggest using 16g wire
That 12g is going to cause a tweak in your pod
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Old 12-07-2012, 09:09 PM   #9023
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Heya Captain

I would highly suggest using 16g wire
That 12g is going to cause a tweak in your pod
??? Im new to f1, elaborate?
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Old 12-08-2012, 05:05 AM   #9024
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12ga wire is stiffer and heavier than 14 or 16ga wire which may inhibit the rear pod from moving freely. Heavy gauge wire is not needed for 21.5 motors.
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Old 12-08-2012, 06:46 AM   #9025
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??? Im new to f1, elaborate?
Being that F1 cars are lightweight & rear wheel drive, they will never see high current loads, so the use of heavy gauge wire is unnecessary, especially with stock spec motors

Furthermore, lighter 16g wire allows the pod to articulate with more freedom
This is crucial with a pan car
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Old 12-08-2012, 07:23 AM   #9026
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Being that F1 cars are lightweight & rear wheel drive, they will never see high current loads, so the use of heavy gauge wire is unnecessary, especially with stock spec motors

Furthermore, lighter 16g wire allows the pod to articulate with more freedom
This is crucial with a pan car
Yes Sir, second that suggestion...
Plug in the battery, put the body on and feel if the T plate moves freely form side to side and back/forward (no cable or body crunch or rub). No contact with cables and body allowed.
The T plate should hold a flat even position whit the chassis as you lift the car up and look at it holding it leveled.

Cheers.
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Old 12-08-2012, 08:09 AM   #9027
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16g Novak Noodle wire.
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Last edited by durtbag; 09-28-2016 at 08:48 PM.
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Old 12-08-2012, 08:29 AM   #9028
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16g Novak Noodle wire.
Have you tried a low profile steering servo mounted with the horn up? It makes the steering so much precise and gets rid of the Ackerman effect.





Or just pick up the front part of your servo until the turnbuckles are in a straight line to the uprights. Hold it up and tape it like this to the servo holder.

Just a taught,

Cheers
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Old 12-08-2012, 08:41 AM   #9029
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeliYogi View Post
Have you tried a low profile steering servo mounted with the horn up? It makes the steering so much precise and gets rid of the Ackerman effect.





Or just pick up the front part of your servo until the turnbuckles are in a straight line to the uprights. Hold it up and tape it like this to the servo holder.

Just a taught,

Cheers
Yeah, ran a low pro Savox for a while like that, but it got put in the TC. I drilled a second set of holes in my servo horn so can lower the inner links to change the level of the turnbuckles. on foam the steering is pretty agressive.
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Old 12-08-2012, 09:23 AM   #9030
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Lowering the inner links gets the tie rods level
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Last edited by durtbag; 09-28-2016 at 08:46 PM.
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