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Old 08-29-2012, 09:43 AM   #8881
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Originally Posted by Arahawak View Post
So it's kinda a Pit rebranded tamiya tire like the gear diffs and other stuff.

Great! Now to check if it legal for our local tamiya races and get them to test it out then.
as long as they allow Tamiya parts, why wouldn't they??

they are legal for TCS racing, so they should be allowed elsewhere, at least that's my opinion
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Old 08-31-2012, 12:41 AM   #8882
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hi
i was wondering if you can use the full size hard case lipos on the version 2 f104
thanks
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Old 09-03-2012, 01:12 PM   #8883
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Who all is making a 190mm kit for the 104's? I know of the RSector kit. But I thought there was another one out there? Whats the cheapest route?
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Old 09-03-2012, 04:15 PM   #8884
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Originally Posted by AleD123 View Post
hi
i was wondering if you can use the full size hard case lipos on the version 2 f104
thanks
Yes
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Old 09-04-2012, 10:35 AM   #8885
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I have a f104 Pro with Shimzu 71/72, High Traction T Bar, 17 wt oil , black grease in dampner and when I'm trying to get on the power say coming onto a straight the back end wants to move out. I turned the throttle down and it is not as bad but not as fast either. I tried turning up the throttle expo and it helped some but not much.

I tried my friends F104 X1 and it was may more hooked up, I could get on the power without the car throwing the back end out. He has same tires, traction plate.

The main differance I can see is the side ways shock instead of my dampner, and the steel drive shaft and the counter wieght.

Should I buy the steel shaft and counter wieght? Will they help me hook up better? oR Will the /f104Pro never be as good as a X1?
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Old 09-04-2012, 10:42 AM   #8886
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the heavy axle makes a huge difference, the counterweight not so much. I would start by changing the axle and if you still need more grip get the separated upper deck and then the fibreglass chassis. adding weight will also help. The damper disc system works just fine.

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Old 09-04-2012, 10:49 AM   #8887
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the heavy axle makes a huge difference, the counterweight not so much. I would start by changing the axle and if you still need more grip get the separated upper deck and then the fibreglass chassis. adding weight will also help. The damper disc system works just fine.

Mark
Thanks for the very quick reply!

add wieghts to the back end, Nice! why the hell didn't I think of that?

do you know if the Yeah racing spring steel shaft if better/ heavier than the Tamiya steel shaft?
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Old 09-04-2012, 11:20 AM   #8888
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Originally Posted by 5VoltDetonator View Post
Thanks for the very quick reply!

add wieghts to the back end, Nice! why the hell didn't I think of that?

do you know if the Yeah racing spring steel shaft if better/ heavier than the Tamiya steel shaft?
i'd probably just go with the tamiya one...I know I have it one mine and haven't had any issues...but i also found a kawada 'heavy-weight' rear axel that I've been using and like - have it in my car now, and will actually use it for a few more races this time
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Old 09-04-2012, 05:21 PM   #8889
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Originally Posted by 5VoltDetonator View Post
Thanks for the very quick reply!

add wieghts to the back end, Nice! why the hell didn't I think of that?

do you know if the Yeah racing spring steel shaft if better/ heavier than the Tamiya steel shaft?
I would keep it all tamiya and TCS ready.
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Old 09-04-2012, 06:08 PM   #8890
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I always liked minimal and light grease, if any at all on the damper plates.
I usually settled on just a tiny bit of AE diff grease on just the bottom disc.
Softer O ring and super loose screw on the T bar/plate can help too.
Loose and floppy rear end helped mine with damper plates and X1 side damper.
Perfect diff is key before all else.
Also, anything you do to increase steering to enter corners will make exiting worse.
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Old 09-05-2012, 11:13 AM   #8891
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Hello everyone, my F104 handles good, but I need more steering, especially on power steering. Has anyone experimented with the shorty battery and moving all the electronics down the centerline of the chassis? I'm curious if a layout like: servo-reciever-battery-ESC-motor would give me the steering I need. I would also like to remove the 2 posts the support the swivel mounts for the electronics to gain more chassis flex. Your adivse is greatly appriciated.
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Old 09-05-2012, 11:20 AM   #8892
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Hello everyone, my F104 handles good, but I need more steering, especially on power steering. Has anyone experimented with the shorty battery and moving all the electronics down the centerline of the chassis? I'm curious if a layout like: servo-reciever-battery-ESC-motor would give me the steering I need. I would also like to remove the 2 posts the support the swivel mounts for the electronics to gain more chassis flex. Your adivse is greatly appriciated.
rubbers or foam ??

i added a 1mm spacer under the front of the shock on my F104 and this helped with the on power understeer
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Old 09-05-2012, 11:47 AM   #8893
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I run foam tires on a rather smooth sealed asphault surface.
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:49 AM   #8894
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What handling advantages are there in using the wider front suspension( or widening the track width)?
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Old 09-06-2012, 10:20 AM   #8895
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Originally Posted by F N CUDA View Post
Perfect diff is key before all else.Also, anything you do to increase steering to enter corners will make exiting worse.
I bolded, italicized, and underlined this so that people people aren't severely changing the balance of their car chasing the rear-end around to get it to either hook-up or step out.

The window of being "hooked-up" to "spinning-out" is sometimes only 1/4 of a turn-at most!

This really is one of the least talked about "secret" when tuning F1 cars. You really can't set the diff on the bench. You have to go out there and run your car on the track *just* so the diff is on the verge of slipping coming out of the tightest turn of the track. I've gone around and "fixed" oversteering F1 cars last weekend by loosening their diffs 1/16th of a turn and sending them back out on the track.

You want more on-power steering? Tighten the diff.
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