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Old 06-17-2012, 09:28 PM   #8491
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Originally Posted by F N CUDA View Post
If you saw RedBullFiXX's final diff (and racing) results you'd be extremely jealous.
Butter smooth yet 0 slip.
Feels as though you were turning the front wheels in opposite directions, yep, that free.
12th scale guys are particular like that.
Ceramic diff balls have been spotted going into his spurs.
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Great description....RBF knows his stuff!!!
Thanks guys
My logic is of course based on pan cars, so I can see the confusion from the Sedan racers on terminology
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Old 06-17-2012, 09:52 PM   #8492
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RBF: what do you put on the diff balls? You told me no on the AE black grease?
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Old 06-17-2012, 10:38 PM   #8493
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I use AE Diff lube. Seems to work best on all my diffs.
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Old 06-17-2012, 10:50 PM   #8494
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
This, but I call it locked, as opposed to a slipping diff, where you pull the throttle and the diff slips, but the wheels don't turn for a bit

With 2WD pan cars we like a lot of diff action, unlike 4WD sedan where the front can pull the car around
A diff that is slipping is not working and needs fixed. With ball diffs we get the advantage of easily adjusting how active the diff is by loosening or tightening it. A ball diff should never slip when built and adjusted correctly(if a gear diff slips you have bigger problems). If it slips I would say it is malfunctioning and you need to readjust it, not lock it. Hearing or noticing a ball diff slip even once on the track is reason to do a full diff rebuild and hope the diff rings and balls do not need replaced.

What do you call a locked diff? A spool is a locked non-adjustable diff. Calling a diff locked like you do is confusing since a majority of people when discussing diffs consider a locked diff to be a diff that does not allow the wheels to spin at different speeds.

For diff balls I have always used Associated Stealth diff lube. Getting a very smooth acting diff is not hard you just need to pay close attention to what you are doing and when adjusting even 1/8th of a turn on the screw can be a big adjustment. It is maintaining a smooth loose diff that can become tedious. The F104 to me has the easiest diff to adjust out of any car I have ever run.
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Old 06-18-2012, 02:25 AM   #8495
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A bad rear bearing or a left side hub set too tight against the bearing will also cause the car to pull to one side
i find my 104 is going left very badly. i have been setting and reset the diff as it must be to to tight and this does not give me any help. i read this and it finds me to make sense. but i have a question to ask. when putting the left wheel side on how is it positioned on the axle? should i leave a amsll gap between the bearing and the hub(wouldnt this move left and right and cause problem?) or put a spacer between the hub and the bearing?
i check my bearing as we run on a low grip carpark and the bearings find alot of dust.they are replaced often.

thanks
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Old 06-18-2012, 02:46 AM   #8496
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There should be a very small gap...rule of thumb is to insert a piece of paper between the hub and the bearing when you tighten down. I find personally that I push too hard on the hub and don't get a big enough gap so I fold the paper and use the double thickness.
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Old 06-18-2012, 06:10 AM   #8497
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RBF, now that we're on common ground ( in other words "I ain't as ignorant as I once was" ) Maybe you could post how you build a 104 diff and what materials, lubes, equipment,etc. you might use ?? As mentioned, us touring car converts could stand to learn a few things. I'm sure finding that out !
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Old 06-18-2012, 08:14 AM   #8498
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Originally Posted by Evoracer View Post
RBF, now that we're on common ground ( in other words "I ain't as ignorant as I once was" ) Maybe you could post how you build a 104 diff and what materials, lubes, equipment,etc. you might use ?? As mentioned, us touring car converts could stand to learn a few things. I'm sure finding that out !
If you follow the link in my sig to 12th info center there is a TON of info about pan car setup

This one in particular is a very good article on Diff Building

The most common issue I've seen are racers using something other than "Silicon Diff Lube"
With the wrong lube, you end up cranking the preload nut down too tight to keep it from slipping, and it kills the diff action
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Last edited by RedBullFiXX; 06-18-2012 at 08:31 AM.
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Old 06-18-2012, 10:25 AM   #8499
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Hi,

I bought 4 sets of scales to measure the weight of my F104Pro on each axle/tire. I messured following values:

rear left: 331g
rear rigth: 287g
front left: 226g
front rigth: 248g

IMHO it would be best to have the left and the rigth hand side of the car balanced at the same weight.

Could that result that out of where I put my electronics, or could the car be tweaked somewhere? I put some weight on each electronic post to balance my Spectrum receiver with the Tamiya TEU-302BK ESC.

What are the best ways to balance the weight of the car? What relation (front to rear, left to right) is common?

regards
Oortael
Has no one any idea on that?
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Old 06-18-2012, 12:47 PM   #8500
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
If you follow the link in my sig to 12th info center there is a TON of info about pan car setup

This one in particular is a very good article on Diff Building

The most common issue I've seen are racers using something other than "Silicon Diff Lube"
With the wrong lube, you end up cranking the preload nut down too tight to keep it from slipping, and it kills the diff action
Some great info there. Been to the IRS site many times but can't remember ever reading that diff build info. Amazing how long I've been building diffs and, apparently, building them wrong !! I usually use 1000 grit and try to get a nice "polished" surface. Never thought about a rougher finish being better. Also not used to very minimal application of lube. Always brushed on a coat of silicone or teflon grease to the rings and the diff balls. Amazed how much I thought I knew and how little I actually know.
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Old 06-18-2012, 01:23 PM   #8501
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Has no one any idea on that?
In the past, I've always thought about putting my rc cars on 4 scales like you've done, but I knew it would just be an endless battle.

For a Tamiya F1(04x1), there is no tweak adjustment so it's best to mount your electronics so when you lift up the front end (at the centerline) that both wheels come off the ground at the same time. Best way to achieve balance is to mount your electronics down the center of the chassis. With shorty packs it's possible to do this now. I also use a tweak board (similar to this one http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p...53&p_catid=163) to make sure the chassis is balanced. It's amazing how wires going to the motor can tweak the chassis, the rear pod isn't square, the top plate was not torqued down in sequence, a front spring is over collapsed can all cause tweak.

For fore/aft balance you can move the shorty pack forward/backward for the steering characteristics you're looking to achieve for the track/layout. If you move the battery to the back more grip is achieved, but the car has tons of initial steering. If you move it fwd, it has less initial steering and more mid/exit steering.

Last edited by Apex; 06-18-2012 at 01:36 PM.
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Old 06-18-2012, 08:15 PM   #8502
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How do you guys mount tires to the rim? Manual says to use tape but I don't think that will hold.

Will AKA Tire glue work fine?

Also do you guys use the foam inserts? I read some people don't use inserts.
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Old 06-18-2012, 08:53 PM   #8503
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Originally Posted by skengines View Post
How do you guys mount tires to the rim? Manual says to use tape but I don't think that will hold.

Will AKA Tire glue work fine?

Also do you guys use the foam inserts? I read some people don't use inserts.
I've never had a problem with the tape, but I've been always wanting to give this a go:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jKFfyyHD1bU
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Old 06-18-2012, 09:01 PM   #8504
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There are instructions on tq s site.
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Old 06-18-2012, 09:08 PM   #8505
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Originally Posted by skengines View Post
How do you guys mount tires to the rim? Manual says to use tape but I don't think that will hold.

Will AKA Tire glue work fine?

Also do you guys use the foam inserts? I read some people don't use inserts.
Tape is for foam tires...for rubber tires use CA glue
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