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Old 06-17-2012, 03:24 AM   #8476
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Originally Posted by I)arkness View Post
it simple, if you want less wheel spin pull the trigger softer

same goes for getting faster times, stop messing with ratios and put the car 1/2 a meter closer to the apex.

yes this also helps......it aint no tourer also add some drag brake
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Old 06-17-2012, 03:29 AM   #8477
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it simple, if you want less wheel spin pull the trigger softer

same goes for getting faster times, stop messing with ratios and put the car 1/2 a meter closer to the apex.

+1
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Old 06-17-2012, 07:46 AM   #8478
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I was reading the article by David Jun and he recommended hop ups here.

http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/fe...article-id=442

Are those good to start with?

The 3Racing spur uses 1/8 balls? It looks like they only sell 3mm balls though? Not sure why they would sell balls that don't fit their own spur.
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Old 06-17-2012, 07:51 AM   #8479
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Originally Posted by Kevin CBR View Post
If you are running at TQ in Chino with an F104, get the Kimbrouogh spur gear with the Murff Dog 1/8 ceramic diff balls. Good combo and Sean stocks both. That's what I run in my F104.

Panda

What gearing are you guys running at TQ? 21.5 motor.
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Old 06-17-2012, 08:27 AM   #8480
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I have tested it a fair few times before. That is simply not the case.

Again I don't know why you are asking about my experience in rc racing. I'm not asking you to post up your experience because it doesn't matter.

I will be dropping the ratio to a 2.25:1 for the blinky car next.

Here is a real life example for you. Have you driven a manual car before?

Put the car in 1st gear and accelerate.
Put the car in 4th gear and accelerate.

The car in 4th gear will not accelerate as fast as in 1st gear. But it will hit a much higher top speed. Try spin the wheels in 1st and try spin the wheels in 4th. It is much harder in 4th gear.

You will find that a cars 1st gear ratio is around 3.1
4th gear ratio is typically close to 1:1
This weekend i ran a 2.27 (84-37) Blinky with a RS and ThunderPower 21.5. My car seems to be the fastest at the track atm at least. (houston Texas, Mikes Hobby shop)
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Old 06-17-2012, 12:22 PM   #8481
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Got all my parts! Thanks for your help guys! Spoke with the owner at TQ who was very helpful and directed me in the correct direction.

Can't wait to start racing.
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Old 06-17-2012, 01:24 PM   #8482
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Noticed the discussion about gear ratios , spur gears and what type of diff balls people like to use. Brought up a question though. I've seen many people quoting that they lock the diff and simply learn to modulate throttle. This all but makes the diff useless. So, just how "locked" should the diff be ? Is it even worth thinking about how many or what type diff ball to use ?? Assuming a totally locked diff, what is the suggested method of doing this?
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Old 06-17-2012, 02:00 PM   #8483
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Originally Posted by Evoracer View Post
Noticed the discussion about gear ratios , spur gears and what type of diff balls people like to use. Brought up a question though. I've seen many people quoting that they lock the diff and simply learn to modulate throttle. This all but makes the diff useless. So, just how "locked" should the diff be ? Is it even worth thinking about how many or what type diff ball to use ?? Assuming a totally locked diff, what is the suggested method of doing this?
A perfect diff is locked, and very smooth
To check, hold both wheels, and try to rotate the spur gear, it should be difficult to turn
If the diff is really good, rotating a wheel will not turn the motor over

It does not mean that both wheels are locked as in a solid connection between the two

It does mean that the inside wheel, or wheel with less load will diff, or spin, allowing for a tighter turning radius

If the diff is not locked, generally the car will not go straight under power, and the life of the diff will be much shorter as the diff balls will grind into the diff plates under load

this is of course just my opinion
and there are many opinions on a msg board such as this
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Old 06-17-2012, 02:15 PM   #8484
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Thanks RBF. I must admit I had to read that a couple of times. Coming from Touring cars; when we talk about locking the diff we're talking about no diff action or , in other terms, both wheels will spin equally under power and will always be pushing the car forward equally from side to side.
I'm still a bit confused by how you use the term "locked". From your description, I would simply tighten the diff screw until I could not turn one wheel while holding the other in position. That is effectively creating a "solid" diff. What am I missing here ?? The F1 DD diff works the same way as a touring diff doesn't it ?
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Old 06-17-2012, 02:29 PM   #8485
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The way RBF is using the word locked describing a diff seems strange to me. Every time I have heard the word locked associated with a diff means the diff does not allow the wheels to spin independent of each other. They are locked so if one wheel does something the other does the exact same thing. Hence in 1:1 off road vehicles you have diff lockers, that lock your diff giving both wheels the same amount of power all the time. If you your diff is not locked it is open.

What RBF is describing is what I call having the diff as loose as possible without it slipping, or open. More or less the exact opposite of locked.
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Old 06-17-2012, 04:34 PM   #8486
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Thats what it sounded like to me. His description doesn't describe what I would consider "locking" the diff.
So, I'm back to my question. Is the ideal diff situation as loose as possible for alot of diff action or tight as possible for very little diff action ??
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Old 06-17-2012, 04:40 PM   #8487
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Originally Posted by CR0SS View Post
The way RBF is using the word locked describing a diff seems strange to me. Every time I have heard the word locked associated with a diff means the diff does not allow the wheels to spin independent of each other. They are locked so if one wheel does something the other does the exact same thing. Hence in 1:1 off road vehicles you have diff lockers, that lock your diff giving both wheels the same amount of power all the time. If you your diff is not locked it is open.

What RBF is describing is what I call having the diff as loose as possible without it slipping, or open. More or less the exact opposite of locked.
This, but I call it locked, as opposed to a slipping diff, where you pull the throttle and the diff slips, but the wheels don't turn for a bit

With 2WD pan cars we like a lot of diff action, unlike 4WD sedan where the front can pull the car around
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Old 06-17-2012, 04:45 PM   #8488
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Now we got it !! Thanks Gents.
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Old 06-17-2012, 08:15 PM   #8489
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Now we got it !! Thanks Gents.
If you saw RedBullFiXX's final diff (and racing) results you'd be extremely jealous.
Butter smooth yet 0 slip.
Feels as though you were turning the front wheels in opposite directions, yep, that free.
12th scale guys are particular like that.
Ceramic diff balls have been spotted going into his spurs.
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Old 06-17-2012, 08:15 PM   #8490
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
A perfect diff is locked, and very smooth
To check, hold both wheels, and try to rotate the spur gear, it should be difficult to turn
If the diff is really good, rotating a wheel will not turn the motor over

It does not mean that both wheels are locked as in a solid connection between the two

It does mean that the inside wheel, or wheel with less load will diff, or spin, allowing for a tighter turning radius

If the diff is not locked, generally the car will not go straight under power, and the life of the diff will be much shorter as the diff balls will grind into the diff plates under load

this is of course just my opinion
and there are many opinions on a msg board such as this
Great description....RBF knows his stuff!!!
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