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Old 02-11-2012, 01:29 AM   #7651
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Yes there is...
It will smoothen the diff big time and adjustment has a better feeling to it.
Don't forget if you use the one piece trustbearing to put the spring rings like this--> )(
I have been running it since i have the F104W Pro and love it(use the same setup on my F103).
On my F103 that i have been running all year, i didn't even had to rebuild it.
It is still smooth as a baby bottum

regards Roy

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Originally Posted by mailboxck View Post
I know this has been answered many times before, but I'll ask it again because it's too hard to search through all the pages of this forum...

Inside the diff, is there any performance advantage if I replace the bearing with a thrust bearing? I never really took it to heart because it's hard to find thrust bearings in our country. But I just found out that I had one sitting inside my toolbox all these years. Sheesh.
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Old 02-11-2012, 03:36 AM   #7652
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Originally Posted by Nexus View Post
Cool. So those parts basically make up the "X1"? But the chassis would be plastic and not carbon?
X1 has FRP chassis, carbon was only in Pro kit.


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Originally Posted by SquirrelCZE View Post
I am just afraid that when something breaks on race... I just ended... there's allways seller with Tamyia parts, but Exotek? zero chance....
P.S: thanks guys, i will look for Tekin and new Speed Passion (Reventon seriess)
P.S: I am running on carpet just now, thanks for advice for top plate :-)
There are bent front upper arms, demaged spur gears (outdoors), maybe broken rear axles, most unsafe parts are really Tamiya parts and it takes 7-9 days to deliver small parts from US to CZ.
BTW For the carpet I like stiffer settings with sharp response that's why long top deck. I can recommend laid down servo setup, one piece thrust bearing in differential, short lipo or X1 upgrade. All these upgrades work very well for me this carpet season.
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Old 02-11-2012, 04:54 AM   #7653
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There are bent front upper arms, demaged spur gears (outdoors), maybe broken rear axles, most unsafe parts are really Tamiya parts and it takes 7-9 days to deliver small parts from US to CZ.
BTW For the carpet I like stiffer settings with sharp response that's why long top deck. I can recommend laid down servo setup, one piece thrust bearing in differential, short lipo or X1 upgrade. All these upgrades work very well for me this carpet season.
I want to apologize but I am not native English speaker, what do you mean by "one piece thrust bearing in differential" ? do you have link to shop or something? I just can't imagine what it is....

hmm, i do not have short lipo :-( I have only lower one, so...

EDIT: I also wanted to ask... Our best F1 driver (Drives F104W) suggest me to remove F104 Pro's front axle and use the wolf's one (it's wider) and I also noticed that his car can drive much faster in turnings without sliding out... my F1 just can't handle the speed... (or I am bad with throttle...).

Is it usefull to change the front axle?
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Old 02-11-2012, 07:08 AM   #7654
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Originally Posted by SquirrelCZE View Post
I want to apologize but I am not native English speaker, what do you mean by "one piece thrust bearing in differential" ? do you have link to shop or something? I just can't imagine what it is....
Dont apologize for the English Speaking, I'm from Texas so I butcher the English language every time I open my mouth

Here is the one piece thrust bearing.

and as for the front axle, The F104w is wider than the F104 pro 200mm vs 180mm. You can change to the wider front end, but you would also have to change to the tires and wheels for the F103/F104W. There is a new product from RSector that will widen the front and rear ends without having to buy new tires. It will push the Pro out to 190mm which should help a lot.
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Old 02-11-2012, 07:52 AM   #7655
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i like the sound of the kit that make the 104 a little wider i think this would help with asphalt rubber tire racing for sure.
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Old 02-11-2012, 08:05 AM   #7656
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro10noob View Post
Yes there is...
It will smoothen the diff big time and adjustment has a better feeling to it.
Don't forget if you use the one piece trustbearing to put the spring rings like this--> )(
I have been running it since i have the F104W Pro and love it(use the same setup on my F103).
On my F103 that i have been running all year, i didn't even had to rebuild it.
It is still smooth as a baby bottum

regards Roy
Thanks for the feedback! Will surely take notes during our next race day.
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Old 02-11-2012, 08:35 AM   #7657
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For ETS races- what does "we will provide our own 4100 mAh shorty packs" mean? Does this mean I would have to buy their LiPOs in order to compete? And also, F104W is not allowed since it is not 180 mm (even though it says all F104s are good)? Sorry for these noob questions, but I'm new to F1 and I'd like to get one in order to compete in ETS
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Old 02-11-2012, 08:45 AM   #7658
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Originally Posted by UrabusDenis View Post
For ETS races- what does "we will provide our own 4100 mAh shorty packs" mean? Does this mean I would have to buy their LiPOs in order to compete? And also, F104W is not allowed since it is not 180 mm (even though it says all F104s are good)? Sorry for these noob questions, but I'm new to F1 and I'd like to get one in order to compete in ETS
yes, you will have to use the shorty lipo, you can get it at Toni sport, with some other ETS stuff: http://www.fast-webshop.com/tonispor...1-ETS-products

The F104w is not allowed, only 180mm wide tamiya or hpi f1 cars. If you have a f104w you can get the f104 front arms to make it 180mm. You also have to use the Ride tires.
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Old 02-11-2012, 08:55 AM   #7659
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Originally Posted by Matthijs View Post
yes, you will have to use the shorty lipo, you can get it at Toni sport, with some other ETS stuff: http://www.fast-webshop.com/tonispor...1-ETS-products

The F104w is not allowed, only 180mm wide tamiya or hpi f1 cars. If you have a f104w you can get the f104 front arms to make it 180mm. You also have to use the Ride tires.
Thanks Matthijs It won't be as cheap to running two classes as I supposed it would be, but it's worth it for a really big race
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Old 02-11-2012, 09:36 AM   #7660
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Does tamiya 53259 3.5mm offset uprites work on the f104 front end?
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Old 02-11-2012, 09:57 AM   #7661
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texastc View Post
. ....
Oh, I am already using that 1 Piece Ball Thrust Bearing.... so it's fine :-)

anyway, I used only one tires for entire carpet season... they were good on every carpet I was driving on... (two carpets, both from same company, so...) but they are running out now... I would buy new tires for carpet anyway
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Old 02-11-2012, 10:19 AM   #7662
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Does tamiya 53259 3.5mm offset uprites work on the f104 front end?
Absolutely, and this is my choice for running on asphalt/low grip surfaces.
Calms the steering down very noticeably.
Warning, when using the 3.5 uprights, replace the axle screws cuz they are very soft and will break at a critical time (qualifier at TCS) and the wheel is gone.
I now CA the axle into the spindle and replace the soft screw with a black oxide socket head cap screw and red Loctite. Yeh, permanent deal but I still run the original modded pieces on each of my F1 cars, 104 and 103.

When traction is high, I like the inline stock spindles for increased steering response tho.
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Old 02-11-2012, 10:50 AM   #7663
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Absolutely, and this is my choice for running on asphalt/low grip surfaces.
Calms the steering down very noticeably.
Warning, when using the 3.5 uprights, replace the axle screws cuz they are very soft and will break at a critical time (qualifier at TCS) and the wheel is gone.
I now CA the axle into the spindle and replace the soft screw with a black oxide socket head cap screw and red Loctite. Yeh, permanent deal but I still run the original modded pieces on each of my F1 cars, 104 and 103.

When traction is high, I like the inline stock spindles for increased steering response tho.
Thanks cuda ...i heard if u replace the screws with associated (i forget the part number) screws it gets rid of the problem
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Old 02-11-2012, 01:30 PM   #7664
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Hello guys, so today I decided to degrease and rebuild the diff on my X1 since from the beginning it felt very dry and gritty. I degreased everything and rebuilt it using 30k oil since I thought maybe it was my grease. It continued the same way so I proceeded and degreased it again, sanded the plates with 400 grit sand paper and built it with mobil1 synthetic grease. It felt way better but still feels dry and gritty very different as how the ball diff on my xray T3 feels. What could it be? Maybe thrust bearing?
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Old 02-11-2012, 02:06 PM   #7665
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Originally Posted by theatriks View Post
Thanks cuda ...i heard if u replace the screws with associated (i forget the part number) screws it gets rid of the problem
The screws are metric, AE may have it but not sure.

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Originally Posted by arix View Post
Hello guys, so today I decided to degrease and rebuild the diff on my X1 since from the beginning it felt very dry and gritty. I degreased everything and rebuilt it using 30k oil since I thought maybe it was my grease. It continued the same way so I proceeded and degreased it again, sanded the plates with 400 grit sand paper and built it with mobil1 synthetic grease. It felt way better but still feels dry and gritty very different as how the ball diff on my xray T3 feels. What could it be? Maybe thrust bearing?
A fresh set of Tamiya rings and diff balls, very cheap.
I'd try that first or if you wanna take all the guess work out do the thrust bearing too. Still cheap.
When you're assembling, work the diff halves, rotating/working them as to not flat spot balls or dent rings. Make the spur very hard to turn by hand while gripping both wheels. I'm liking the Mobil 1 grease on diff and thrust also. Super smooth.
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