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Old 01-23-2012, 03:01 AM   #7471
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i just have a silver can motor with a futaba esc.
i bought it like this and i
have no idea about setup for these cars
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:12 PM   #7472
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Is the Clamp wheel hub a recommended hopup? What does this do exactly?
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Old 01-23-2012, 10:47 PM   #7473
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Is the Clamp wheel hub a recommended hopup? What does this do exactly?
I like it, I have one on my Exotek F104R and my F109. I was having problems with the wheel flying off of the graphite axle, I don't know about anyone else, but I like it. It just secures the hub to the axle better and at 2 points instead of one. And it eliminates the axle spacer.
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Old 01-23-2012, 10:53 PM   #7474
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I'd run it on a carbon axle. But it's not necessary on a steel axle.
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Old 01-23-2012, 11:24 PM   #7475
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Is the Clamp wheel hub a recommended hopup? What does this do exactly?
If you buy the clamp wheel hub you cannot run the new counter weight as found on the F104X1, now available seperately as a hopup part too.
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Old 01-24-2012, 12:18 AM   #7476
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What does the counter weight do? It goes on the left wheel?
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Old 01-24-2012, 06:16 AM   #7477
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It's ment to prevent to torque steer but I can not really tell the difference with it on or off personally. I was running 10 g on the back left diff user it pretty much done the same thing
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Old 01-24-2012, 07:30 AM   #7478
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It's ment to prevent to torque steer but I can not really tell the difference with it on or off personally. I was running 10 g on the back left diff user it pretty much done the same thing
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Old 01-25-2012, 06:53 PM   #7479
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Is the Clamp wheel hub a recommended hopup? What does this do exactly?
Instead of just a grub screw securing the hub to the axle, the clamp hub has grub screw and another screw - the clamp.

I really like the clamp hub as I really tighten down the diff side with loctite making it basically permanent. The clamp on the left makes it easy to get a tight secure fit of the hub with little risk of stripping screws.
So I can reliably disassemble from the left side.

Tamiya version is one piece - has no axle spacer. This means the clamp screw and the grub screw are far apart so I think clamps very securely.

Other brands have the axle spacer like tamiya std hub so you may be able to use the counter balancer.
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Old 01-26-2012, 07:24 AM   #7480
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Has anybody used this:::Tamiya F-104 1800 mAh Micro LiPo Battery Conversion Kit::::::It's being sold on ebay at the following link::
http://www.ebay.com/itm/320753738072...84.m1423.l2649

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Old 01-26-2012, 07:53 AM   #7481
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Has anybody used this:::Tamiya F-104 1800 mAh Micro LiPo Battery Conversion Kit::::::It's being sold on ebay at the following link::
http://www.ebay.com/itm/320753738072...84.m1423.l2649

Thanks
idbdoug
ive never even seen that before, but i like it!
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Old 01-26-2012, 08:03 AM   #7482
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That conversion looks pretty cool. Like how it allows you to clean up the electronics wiring too.
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Old 01-26-2012, 09:16 AM   #7483
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That conversion looks pretty cool. Like how it allows you to clean up the electronics wiring too.
I run the 1800mah battery but I didn't use the conversion, just taped the battery in across the chassis. I run it forward as my rec and speedo are behind my battery, really let's you clean up your wiring!
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Old 01-26-2012, 09:21 AM   #7484
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What motor are you running and how much run time do you get?
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Old 01-26-2012, 02:35 PM   #7485
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I have been using a 17.5 and getting 25m run time easy motor warm only
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