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Old 01-17-2012, 06:57 AM   #7411
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Originally Posted by stulee666 View Post
same for me with durability i run carbon in my pro which has been perfect and i run steel with counter weight on my x1,thats lasted 1 meet and is tweaked
Are you running the stock motor plates on the X1? I'm thinking the carbon plastic is tweaking on the X1, but on the pro the aluminum is staying true.

After hearing this maybe I need to upgrade the motor plates to aluminum. Anyone know if the black motor plates are still available?
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Old 01-17-2012, 06:57 AM   #7412
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You lock your rear diff on carpet or asphalt??
My diff is just a smidge above slipping when accelerating hard. Still have to tune it on the track, but have got close to getting it right in the pits now, slips a bit by hand.

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Old 01-17-2012, 06:58 AM   #7413
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Anyone know if the black motor plates are still available?
Don't think so, never been able to find them... been thinking about stripping the anodising off my blue ones!
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Old 01-17-2012, 06:59 AM   #7414
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Are you running the stock motor plates on the X1? I'm thinking the carbon plastic is tweaking on the X1, but on the pro the aluminum is staying true.

After hearing this maybe I need to upgrade the motor plates to aluminum. Anyone know if the black motor plates are still available?
They are, but they are backordered through Tamiya America. As soon as I can get them again I will have them in stock
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Old 01-17-2012, 07:37 AM   #7415
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Are you running the stock motor plates on the X1? I'm thinking the carbon plastic is tweaking on the X1, but on the pro the aluminum is staying true.

After hearing this maybe I need to upgrade the motor plates to aluminum. Anyone know if the black motor plates are still available?
Greg,

They should show up again. I looked everywhere online in Japan and the US. Tamiya just finished doing their inventory audit so the online shops will soon have their supplies refilled. I usually watch for f104 parts on Tq's website since they are just down the road from Tamiya.

I couldn't wait since my fellow racers peeled me into a wall at full speed and broke my carbon plastic motor mount into 2 pieces. I bought the blue ones and rattle canned them black.
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Old 01-17-2012, 07:45 AM   #7416
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i look for this part for a link front end but it no longer is available. does anyone know of something that would work in its place?
thanks
Try plastic one:
http://www.rcmart.com/rc-mrr2-hopup-...=595_1075_1076
I'm going to use these for wide link setup.
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Old 01-17-2012, 08:40 AM   #7417
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Greg,

They should show up again. I looked everywhere online in Japan and the US. Tamiya just finished doing their inventory audit so the online shops will soon have their supplies refilled. I usually watch for f104 parts on Tq's website since they are just down the road from Tamiya.

I couldn't wait since my fellow racers peeled me into a wall at full speed and broke my carbon plastic motor mount into 2 pieces. I bought the blue ones and rattle canned them black.
I just placed an order with TQ last night for some stuff. Will keep a lookout. I plan to do both TCS races in MD this year so starting to build and get my F1 car ready.
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Old 01-17-2012, 10:02 AM   #7418
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Just installed this kit, feels pretty sweet. Only neg is their use of phillips head screws for everything. Just wanted some ideas on damper fluids, what are you guys using on the X1 ?
You have double tubes, so you may have to go a bit lighter than typical X1 setup..
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Old 01-17-2012, 03:07 PM   #7419
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Will the rsector high capacity lipo conversion work with the tamiya upper deck/roll damper conversion on my my f104 pro???
Thanks
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Old 01-17-2012, 03:41 PM   #7420
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Will the rsector high capacity lipo conversion work with the tamiya upper deck/roll damper conversion on my my f104 pro???
Thanks
idbdoug
Yes it will, it's good on both the pro and x1 setups
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Old 01-17-2012, 05:43 PM   #7421
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You have double tubes, so you may have to go a bit lighter than typical X1 setup..
thanks robk, makes sense. one nice thing about the double tube setup is the instant visual feed back on the tweak of the chassis. if the cam lever is not at 90 degrees when the car is at rest on a level surface, then you need to re-tweak. and man was my chassis tweaked.
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Old 01-17-2012, 05:49 PM   #7422
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Well that can be an indication...but you could also just have a high spot or low spot in the tire...especially if you are using rubber tires. Or even you could have one front spring more compressed than the other...both would cause the cantilevers to not be at 90*.
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Old 01-17-2012, 11:01 PM   #7423
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Well that can be an indication...but you could also just have a high spot or low spot in the tire...especially if you are using rubber tires. Or even you could have one front spring more compressed than the other...both would cause the cantilevers to not be at 90*.
all good things to check, new pits, springs same, plastic ride height spacers replaced with aluminium spacers long time ago. bent aluminium front bolts replaced with Stainless Steel.
It's those hard front hits that tweak me
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Old 01-18-2012, 04:56 AM   #7424
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Default measuring caster?

How do You guys measure caster when building custom made link setup? Is there any accurate and simple solution?
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Old 01-18-2012, 05:28 AM   #7425
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I have seen people use there TC setup system with a adaptor for the f1 axle.
Other use a camber gauge when the tires are mounted.
Caster adjustment is another thing.

regards Roy

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How do You guys measure caster when building custom made link setup? Is there any accurate and simple solution?
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