TryHard

iTrader: (4)

The only reason I could see fro the clips coming off would be on the bottom, if the clip touches the wheel (like it does with the Ride rims that have a smaller diameter). I've been running that front end setup for a long time, certainly prefer it to the stock version.

HiH
Ed

texastc

iTrader: (2)

You may be right. I have added some spacers above the steering block and on top of the arm. There was some play in the kingpin. Quite possible they were rubbing the wheels. I lost 2 bottom and 2 top C clips yesterday. But it just started happening last week. Must have inadvertently took some spacers off and not replaced them during a change. Makes sense.

InspGadgt

Kingpin play is what you use to adjust front droop. Having no play could result in having no droop depending on what spring you have up front. E-clips/C-clips popping off is just something that happens...especially those funky ones Tamiya uses on the bottom to hold the spring on. Those ones wear out quickly if you take them off a lot to do spring changes. On the F103 I use to swap those out with the same kind they use on the top of the kingpin as that held tighter...but they are harder to change springs with.

liteweight

iTrader: (12)

Guys im new with F-1 , I need a starting FDR or Spur and Pinion for carpet, Im running 21.5 brushless no boost on 70 x 40 track size?
Thanks

texastc

iTrader: (2)

I'm running between a 30/96 and 35/96 depending on the mood.

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

I'm at 38/93 with 30* timing on carpet and run about 150* after 10+ minutes on my Novak Ballistic.

I saw that Hideo dude from Japan/Futaba ran 40/88 and preferred 0 timing when he had visited us at TQ carpet track. Oh yeh, he kicked our asses too.

Don't be afraid to gear big but check temps, it's the law.

liteweight

iTrader: (12)

Thanks Texastc

texastc

iTrader: (2)

Thank Cuda, and go with what he says. He s got way more experience in this than I do. I just post a lot.

nrtv20

iTrader: (9)

same.

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

Thanks texdude but I'm just tellin what I like, now go post again cuz your last one was #666!

texastc

iTrader: (2)

Muwahahahahahahaha!


I got a question too. I have the counter weight. I haven't run it yet, because I also run the clamp on left hub and a steel axle. I like the feel of the steel axle.
Does the steel axle have the same effect as the counter weight or will the counter weight just add even more rotating mass to the back end?

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

The counterweight uses bearings to help it keep from becoming extra rotating mass.
I'm running the steel axle and the counterweight. Can I tell?
I'm not telling you. cuz I can't tell

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Actually, I can jump in on this... as I broke my carbon axle last meeting, and switched to the steel.
Was the only change I made, but it made the car feel it had more rear traction... I likey!

texastc

iTrader: (2)

I went back to steel axle last weekend right before the main. I had used it before in my F109 but not in a narrow. I immediately felt the difference, back end felt planted and very good in the infield. Ill try the counter weight when someone lends me a regular wheel stopper. I have 2 of the clamps.

back on the subject of the front end. Whats the benefits of running with and with out the caster plate spacers?

JamesHealey

iTrader: (1)

The only thing i noticed changing back to the steel axle was the drop in punch out of the corner, sort of a lack of spin up/torque delivery.

Which I guess makes the car easier to drive and less likely to spin out which can be seen as traction? I still prefer the carbon axle as it's got that awesome ability to snap the rear end out with a quick blast of the throttle if needed, where as he steel wouldn't do that for me in the same controlled manor.

The only time i've ever needed to flick the end out though was if i'd entered a corner too hard and needed to get the car to rotate quick and controlled.. opposite lock power slides for the win!

driver preference for sure. I've also not managed to snap my carbon axle yet.. but i've managed to bend every single steel one within a few days.

Durability is king really, if you've got no rear axle you're not going racing.