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Old 01-09-2012, 09:15 AM   #7321
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@DFX...Yes the F103 wheel fit the F104 diff,you only need to remove the trustbearing in the F103 wheel if mounted.
When using the F104 motormount the car can get lower then with the F103 motor mount.
The F103 wheels have also a different offset so that is why the car will be 200MM.
As for building your car to the 200MM spec you only need the wheels and tires,front suspension arms with steeringblocks and kingpins and some 850 bearings for in the front wheels.
That is if you have the F104Pro or X1.

regards Roy
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Old 01-09-2012, 01:17 PM   #7322
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro10noob View Post
When using the F104 motormount the car can get lower then with the F103 motor mount.
As for building your car to the 200MM spec you only need the wheels and tires,front suspension arms with steeringblocks and kingpins and some 850 bearings for in the front wheels.
How big is the ride height drop? In some carpet races in our country is min. ride height 5mm, for our club races I'm using 4mm in front and 6mm on the back...
In pro kit there are 54154 F103 uprights, You mean this steering block? Maybe I'll try wide link solution seen on rcf1blog...
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Old 01-09-2012, 01:36 PM   #7323
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@DFX....Here you go
I use the 50395 steering blocks.
I don't know if the 54154 are different then the above besides color
Where are you from DFX??

regards Roy
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Tamiya F104 Pro!-vergleich.jpg  
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Old 01-09-2012, 08:34 PM   #7324
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Default Wheel info and Help! (long)

Ok, so I should have known better!! I really want to run my FGX but with the rules around being what they are (at various tracks) I got a 104 Pro. It came with a bunch of wheels and tires but all were Tamiya rubber which I have read are junk. The Pits seem to be a safe choice so I got a set assuming they went on stock F104 wheels... nope you need foam tire wheels, right?

Well after looking at all the pix I could find it looked like if I removed the outer ribs from the stock wheels the tires would fit. Well I messed up somehow and the mounted tires were not round. No prob, I'll just soak them in Acetone and the CA will let go like it does on my HPI VTA Wheel/Tires and try again..
NOPE-the wheels melt-Unbelievable, they turned to gooooooooo!

Now I need the foam wheels or ????? HELP! and don't get Acetone on Tammy wheels!

Thanks,
Ned
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Old 01-09-2012, 08:40 PM   #7325
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I recall some time ago someone posting up a diff that could be adjusted without removing the rear tire. Anyone recall that or have a link?
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Old 01-09-2012, 09:01 PM   #7326
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You have to use the "old" F103 diff parts and rear axle to do that

regards Roy

Quote:
Originally Posted by Odin544 View Post
I recall some time ago someone posting up a diff that could be adjusted without removing the rear tire. Anyone recall that or have a link?
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Old 01-09-2012, 09:15 PM   #7327
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Originally Posted by Pro10noob View Post
You have to use the "old" F103 diff parts and rear axle to do that

regards Roy
The one I am thinking of was an aftermarket setup. Is this what you are referring to as well? If I recall correctly the one I'm thinking of used an allen wrench through the end of the axle for the adjustments.
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Old 01-09-2012, 09:18 PM   #7328
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3racing makes the out-tuned diff. Maybe that's it?
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Old 01-09-2012, 10:54 PM   #7329
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Odin544 View Post
I recall some time ago someone posting up a diff that could be adjusted without removing the rear tire. Anyone recall that or have a link?
Quote:
Originally Posted by texastc View Post
3racing makes the out-tuned diff. Maybe that's it?
3Racing does make such a diff: http://www.rcmart.com/rc-f104-3racin...h=595_744_1390

/Johnny
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Old 01-10-2012, 12:03 AM   #7330
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aarcobra View Post
Ok, so I should have known better!! I really want to run my FGX but with the rules around being what they are (at various tracks) I got a 104 Pro. It came with a bunch of wheels and tires but all were Tamiya rubber which I have read are junk. The Pits seem to be a safe choice so I got a set assuming they went on stock F104 wheels... nope you need foam tire wheels, right?

Well after looking at all the pix I could find it looked like if I removed the outer ribs from the stock wheels the tires would fit. Well I messed up somehow and the mounted tires were not round. No prob, I'll just soak them in Acetone and the CA will let go like it does on my HPI VTA Wheel/Tires and try again..
NOPE-the wheels melt-Unbelievable, they turned to gooooooooo!

Now I need the foam wheels or ????? HELP! and don't get Acetone on Tammy wheels!

Thanks,
Ned
Ouch, that's a lesson discussed a looong time ago.
Acetone and certain Tamiya wheels, no go. As a matter of fact, you can't even bake the tires off of certain Tamiya wheels.
Mini wheels and F104 wheels for rubber turn to that goooo. Not sure about the TC wheels, never tried em.

However, for unknown reasons,(materials of course), the wheels for the foam tires on both the F104 and the F103 can handle Acetone easily.
I reuse these all the time and just recently soaked off 2 sets of worn F104 Pit Shimizus and am currently running new tires on those old rims.
My F103 is wearing new foams on an old set of gold Tamiya rims that came with that car when I bought it used a few years ago.
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Old 01-10-2012, 12:06 AM   #7331
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Anyone any experience with the 3 racing out tuned diff?
I've been running the 109 diff on my exo104 for a while now better than the 104pro diff!
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Old 01-10-2012, 02:06 AM   #7332
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro10noob View Post
@DFX....Here you go
Where are you from DFX?
Thanks for that! It looks that it could be tight to have ride height over 5mm with used or trued F103 tires and F104 motor mount...
If You go from Netherlands across the Germany to south east You will find small country with capital city Praque (Praha), the city I live... ;-)
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Old 01-10-2012, 03:40 AM   #7333
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Default assembling front end

I am assembling my Exotek F1R with the F104 front end.

I am curious in the F104 manual it states that I am to look the knuckle onto the kingpin wiht a set screw, Is that commonly done?

Also the plastic washers from the tamiya F104 plastic parts tree are very tight on the kingpin, they will not slide on it, is that OK?
(3 different thicknes plastic washers to go on kingpin, the thickest under and the two other on top of knuckle)

Thanks!
/Johnny
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Old 01-10-2012, 05:10 AM   #7334
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Johnny: It is correct. For the F103 carbon reinforced front uprights (used in F104 Pro kit) You should lock the knuckles so the kingpin is moving with knuckle when You turn wheels. It works well. If You apply some grease onto kingpin in place where the kingpin is moving through 8mm ball You could adjust dampening.
Spacers are to adjust ride height so if You put 1mm washer from upper position down under the knuckle You lower front ride height by 1mm. I believe there are 2,5mm, 1,5mm and 1mm plastic washers. You could change them for alu ones but plastic are OK as well.
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Old 01-10-2012, 05:39 AM   #7335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dfx View Post
Johnny: It is correct. For the F103 carbon reinforced front uprights (used in F104 Pro kit) You should lock the knuckles so the kingpin is moving with knuckle when You turn wheels. It works well. If You apply some grease onto kingpin in place where the kingpin is moving through 8mm ball You could adjust dampening.
Spacers are to adjust ride height so if You put 1mm washer from upper position down under the knuckle You lower front ride height by 1mm. I believe there are 2,5mm, 1,5mm and 1mm plastic washers. You could change them for alu ones but plastic are OK as well.
Thanks!
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Xray X1(21,5T, spectrum) Tamiya M05(tamiya ESC, silver can, spectrum)

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