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Old 09-19-2011, 10:16 AM   #6376
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Originally Posted by CR0SS View Post
My setup:

Blue side springs just touching
Gold front springs
Ride height 5mm

White Tamiya spring on rear shock
Exotek recommended rear shock oil(I do not have the manual with me)
rear shock length 64mm
front ball stud +2mm

Side damper Losi 60wt oil

1.5 front camber
front upper arm rear ball stud +1.5mm
.5 degree toe out

1oz weight on the front wing
289g 5000mah battery
F60 body and wing kit

I think the first thing I am going to try next is dropping my ride height some. I also have a set of medium front tires to try instead of the soft.
Definitely try the medium fronts. Also, 60wt is pretty high in the side damper for rubber. I went to 35wt oil when I switched to rubbers on carpet from 50wt. Maybe go to 1* camber as well, lube the kingpins with something like 30K diff oil. The lube on the kingpins will make the traction roll worse if you go too hard however.

YOu might want to try a black spring on the front, but I would only do that if you feel the car diving onto the outside front. If not, the gold is probably ok, since too hard a spring will make your car traction roll easier as well.

I would glue the sidewalls first, as it is the simplest and fastest thing to do.
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Old 09-19-2011, 10:28 AM   #6377
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Old 09-19-2011, 11:33 AM   #6378
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Originally Posted by CR0SS View Post
the inside rear tire would lift off the ground. This of course made it hard to get power to the ground since the tire in the air would get all the power. I am not sure the best way to fix this issue.

What Rob said and I wish to add to help the excessive roll is to add roll stop screws in the forward holes in front of the side springs. This will help keep the chassis from dumping over because of the high grip, lifting the inside tires and then suddenly breaking loose. The screw is about 2mm from the link when running at about 4.5mm ride height shown here.

With this you can run soft side springs and dampening to generate side bit but then the limiters kick in when the car needs to stop rolling. For asphalt I substitute the long screw with an extra set of side springs.



I think going to harder front tire and slightly lower ride height as you did will help you also.
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Old 09-19-2011, 11:54 AM   #6379
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Cool thanks for the help guys. I will try these things and get back to you.

I like the idea of the roll stop screw. I was really only having trouble with the lifting tire in two corners. It did not upset the car much just something I noticed. I just could not get on throttle with the tire lifted.

I thought this car was fun on asphalt. It is even more fun on carpet.
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Old 09-19-2011, 12:26 PM   #6380
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Ive got a trf shock but no build instructions in the box? anywhere online that has them?

Last edited by Bigtomo71; 09-19-2011 at 12:39 PM.
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Old 09-19-2011, 12:35 PM   #6381
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Does the split top deck do any good for carpet racing? Or should I stay on the kit upper deck?

I've got the Pro kit on F103 HBR rears and F104 soft fronts. Soft and high traction t-bar are in stock for this winter season, too
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Old 09-19-2011, 01:09 PM   #6382
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I have been reading varying opinions on which car is best for racing rubber tire on carpet.

I like the look of both the 104 Pro and the 104X1, but I was wondering which car would be better suited for carpet racing?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 09-19-2011, 01:12 PM   #6383
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Originally Posted by Bigtomo71 View Post
Ive got a trf shock but no build instructions in the box? anywhere online that has them?

Jep. Just follow this link and look at page 11

http://www.dickietamiya.com/CommonFiles/Dickie-Tamiya/PDM_Products/Tamiya/300058431/300058431_Bauanleitung.pdf
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Old 09-19-2011, 01:22 PM   #6384
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeR View Post
What Rob said and I wish to add to help the excessive roll is to add roll stop screws in the forward holes in front of the side springs. This will help keep the chassis from dumping over because of the high grip, lifting the inside tires and then suddenly breaking loose. The screw is about 2mm from the link when running at about 4.5mm ride height shown here.

With this you can run soft side springs and dampening to generate side bit but then the limiters kick in when the car needs to stop rolling. For asphalt I substitute the long screw with an extra set of side springs.



I think going to harder front tire and slightly lower ride height as you did will help you also.
I need to try this myself...
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Old 09-19-2011, 11:22 PM   #6385
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Stock spur.... 13.5 brushless. What pinion should I use?
Thanks
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Old 09-20-2011, 12:05 PM   #6386
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Default Spur Gear Adapter

Hi Guys… I hope someone can help… I generally run 1/10th Touring car out doors and on carpet and have been running My F104 at our local club basically because the track is just not big enough.. So now the TC season is over I want to step up a bit with the F104.. I want to be able to Run the kimbrough spur 48dp and have sorted the Hop up spur Gear Adapter (#54215) and 12 1/8th Diff balls and wow it is so much smoother.. However!! Now it no longer has the bearing how long does the adapter last? Does it melt? Burn out?.. Has anyone else done this change?

Shane
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Old 09-20-2011, 02:04 PM   #6387
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Originally Posted by RCMadShane View Post
Hi Guys… I hope someone can help… I generally run 1/10th Touring car out doors and on carpet and have been running My F104 at our local club basically because the track is just not big enough.. So now the TC season is over I want to step up a bit with the F104.. I want to be able to Run the kimbrough spur 48dp and have sorted the Hop up spur Gear Adapter (#54215) and 12 1/8th Diff balls and wow it is so much smoother.. However!! Now it no longer has the bearing how long does the adapter last? Does it melt? Burn out?.. Has anyone else done this change?

Shane
The adaptor will pretty much last forever.
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Old 09-20-2011, 03:41 PM   #6388
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Default Spur Gear Adapter

Fab news... Chears.. I am building Two diffs.. one with a 72 tooth for larger tracks and a 81 for club... Fingers crossed all will be fine..

Thanks again
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Old 09-20-2011, 05:45 PM   #6389
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Fab news... Chears.. I am building Two diffs.. one with a 72 tooth for larger tracks and a 81 for club... Fingers crossed all will be fine..

Thanks again
I'm pretty sure you won't be able to run much smaller than an 80 or 82 tooth spur gear, 48 pitch.
If I'm not mistaken any smaller than those will be about the same size as the diff hubs.

When I run my 21.5 I run an 82 tooth spur and it's tiny.
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Old 09-20-2011, 06:01 PM   #6390
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeR View Post
What Rob said and I wish to add to help the excessive roll is to add roll stop screws in the forward holes in front of the side springs. This will help keep the chassis from dumping over because of the high grip, lifting the inside tires and then suddenly breaking loose. The screw is about 2mm from the link when running at about 4.5mm ride height shown here.

With this you can run soft side springs and dampening to generate side bit but then the limiters kick in when the car needs to stop rolling. For asphalt I substitute the long screw with an extra set of side springs.



I think going to harder front tire and slightly lower ride height as you did will help you also.
wheres this side spring set-up cme from...... is that what the f104x1
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