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Old 09-17-2011, 06:29 PM   #6361
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Originally Posted by FST4RD View Post
You can get hard case LIPO's in there, you have to grind off part of the battery holder, and the plastic pivots need some grinding as well.
On the upside My batteries fit nice and tight.

honestly i was thinking perhaps i could cram a soft pack turnigy into there without grinding away anything.
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Old 09-17-2011, 06:41 PM   #6362
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All you need to do is trim the mounts for the electronics "wings" where they wrap around the posts. Loosen everything up and slide it in or even unscrew the top plate and drop it in.
You will be able to see where it needs trimming.
Without trimming, it will not fit but you should not need to grind anything else.
I have always run 5000 and 5200 lipos in mine.
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Old 09-17-2011, 06:54 PM   #6363
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im not at home so i cant verify..
by cutting off those inside parts of where it slides down the metal shafts, the electronic wings will still stay positioned properly?
or will i have to glue them into place
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Old 09-17-2011, 07:36 PM   #6364
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Mine are actually cut in an almost closed C shape. The battery needs to be almost up against the posts.
One of my wings can actually be pulled off the post and clipped back on very securely.
My electronics are so big that my Ferrari body needs to be spread open to clear then dropped down, the body closes back over and holds everything in snug anyway.
Not a real big deal really.
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Old 09-17-2011, 08:37 PM   #6365
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Yeah grind it off little by little till it fits snuggly.

I also found with my Ferrari body even with an extremely small ESC and receiver the body still bolges slightly...
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Old 09-17-2011, 11:40 PM   #6366
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I was able to get my F104 Exotek on a carpet track for the first time today. All I can say is wow it was a blast. I was running the Shimizu F1 softs and R1 mediums. The car was hooked up. I was able to use every bit of the 13.5t motor I had in it. Now I just have a few tuning questions:

I found doping the tires was needed at first, then gave me to much traction later in the day. I was traction rolling in both high and medium speed corners. After 5 or so laps the tires lost some grip and I could drive aggressive again. Except now if I turned hard into a corner the car would turn then chatter/bounce sliding sideways. I am not really sure what to do about this?

The other issue I was seeing was in some of the tight corners it seemed like the inside rear tire would lift off the ground. This of course made it hard to get power to the ground since the tire in the air would get all the power. I am not sure the best way to fix this issue. What would change with the handling of the car if I tightened the diff?
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Old 09-18-2011, 12:40 AM   #6367
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I was able to get my F104 Exotek on a carpet track for the first time today. All I can say is wow it was a blast. I was running the Shimizu F1 softs and R1 mediums. The car was hooked up. I was able to use every bit of the 13.5t motor I had in it. Now I just have a few tuning questions:

I found doping the tires was needed at first, then gave me to much traction later in the day. I was traction rolling in both high and medium speed corners. After 5 or so laps the tires lost some grip and I could drive aggressive again. Except now if I turned hard into a corner the car would turn then chatter/bounce sliding sideways. I am not really sure what to do about this?

The other issue I was seeing was in some of the tight corners it seemed like the inside rear tire would lift off the ground. This of course made it hard to get power to the ground since the tire in the air would get all the power. I am not sure the best way to fix this issue. What would change with the handling of the car if I tightened the diff?
Try to add 10g weight under each of the front arms and apply some Tamiya anti-wear grease on the front steering shafts to reduce the bouncing.

Did you use the damper plate on carpet? Try to use thicker grease or tighten the plate, which will reduce the tire lift. Only try to tighten the diff when you cannot get enough steering. I tried this at TQ, a tight diff will give you A LOT more steering but the rear will snap oversteer exiting the corner.
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Old 09-18-2011, 03:07 AM   #6368
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It's not worth the time, you should sell it to me for $50

Too much pod droop? Ca the front sidewalls? Try trailing front knuckles yet?
All of the aboves are possibles... In the end I got fed up and bolted on a set of tamiya rubber tyres, and lo and behold yes it was slower than the wide foamies, but a lot better balanced and I could actually drive it for a full ten minutes without looping it!! Loads of understeer in, and whiff of on throttle slide, made for a nice consistent run!

Me thinks a lot more testing with foam tires is required...
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Old 09-18-2011, 04:56 AM   #6369
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The chap in the modelshop was 1 of the main blokes who run the moto arena at silverstone b4 it went tits up. After speakin to you guys im tempted to go back over an tell him hes a bellend!

Cant wait to hav this car running! Its on foams at the mo so i wouldnt mind gettin sum rubber 1s for it. Id like to get sum wets but nowhere does them that i know of??

Want to get my self a new body set (wheres cheapest)
Not sure what speed controller to run in the car or motor for that mater?
Any surgestions

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The model shop owner is an idiot.
If there's nowhere to run the car then why on earth did he have one then!

There is an active F1 racing community in the UK, which is going from strength to strength. For example, have a look here and it's not too far away from you. The 3Racing F109 is the most popular car but it isn't any faster than anything else - the fastest F1 at my local club is a well driven F104Pro.

Bearings can be bought anywhere, they aren't specific to the car and any 5mm by 10mm bearing will do, like this one.

For the pinion gear, you can pick up 0.4 module pinions from any Tamiya dealer, but Tamiya are the only company making the 0.4 module pinion and spur gears, so can be hard to find in stock when you damage the spur gear. The kit comes with a 25T pinion, like this. As an alternative get one of these gear adapters and you can switch to the more common 48dp or 64dp size pinion and spur gears that are available from many manufacturers.
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Old 09-18-2011, 05:26 AM   #6370
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im not at home so i cant verify..
by cutting off those inside parts of where it slides down the metal shafts, the electronic wings will still stay positioned properly?
or will i have to glue them into place
If you don't use the o-ring on the top, then you can leave the upper loop in place, and let it sit above the pack. Might need to sand the upper loop down a little... but at least you have a guarantee that the wing won't come off. Also then use some foam between wing and battery pack.

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Old 09-18-2011, 09:12 AM   #6371
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Originally Posted by Bigtomo71 View Post
Cant wait to hav this car running! Its on foams at the mo so i wouldnt mind gettin sum rubber 1s for it. Id like to get sum wets but nowhere does them that i know of??
If you find some, tell me please. I'd like to drive in the rain, too.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigtomo71 View Post
Want to get my self a new body set (wheres cheapest)
Not sure what speed controller to run in the car or motor for that mater?
Any surgestions
Any ESC could do it for a silvercan.

If you go brushless, I prefer the Speed Passion Cirtix Club Race with a Corally 17.5T or an older GM 13.5T.
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Old 09-18-2011, 09:20 AM   #6372
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Originally Posted by eComet View Post
Try to add 10g weight under each of the front arms and apply some Tamiya anti-wear grease on the front steering shafts to reduce the bouncing.

Did you use the damper plate on carpet? Try to use thicker grease or tighten the plate, which will reduce the tire lift. Only try to tighten the diff when you cannot get enough steering. I tried this at TQ, a tight diff will give you A LOT more steering but the rear will snap oversteer exiting the corner.
I am not sure adding the weight to the front arms will help. Most of the bouncing is in the rear. I would think the added weight and grip would make the car hook to much.

I do not have a damper plate since I am running the Exotek chassis.
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Old 09-18-2011, 01:02 PM   #6373
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Originally Posted by CR0SS View Post
I was able to get my F104 Exotek on a carpet track for the first time today. All I can say is wow it was a blast. I was running the Shimizu F1 softs and R1 mediums. The car was hooked up. I was able to use every bit of the 13.5t motor I had in it. Now I just have a few tuning questions:

I found doping the tires was needed at first, then gave me to much traction later in the day. I was traction rolling in both high and medium speed corners. After 5 or so laps the tires lost some grip and I could drive aggressive again. Except now if I turned hard into a corner the car would turn then chatter/bounce sliding sideways. I am not really sure what to do about this?

The other issue I was seeing was in some of the tight corners it seemed like the inside rear tire would lift off the ground. This of course made it hard to get power to the ground since the tire in the air would get all the power. I am not sure the best way to fix this issue. What would change with the handling of the car if I tightened the diff?
If you're lifting tires, you're probably too stiff on the side shock. As traction picks up, the car needs to move more within it's suspension, which actually may be a move to lighter oil in your case.

The other problem is your car has too much traction overall. The chattering and traction rolling are all symptoms. Gluing the sidewalls on all 4 tires may help to start. Different tires might be better.

What springs, oils etc are you running? It's hard to see what is happening without your setup.
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Old 09-18-2011, 05:45 PM   #6374
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Hi Rob,

How heavy is your F104 with rubber tires? Mine is already at 1418gms on asphalt. We use Tamiya 14T brushless for the Tamiya qualifiers, lots of power. Might be faster than the GT class on carpet.

Thanks.
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Old 09-18-2011, 09:35 PM   #6375
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Originally Posted by robk View Post
What springs, oils etc are you running? It's hard to see what is happening without your setup.
My setup:

Blue side springs just touching
Gold front springs
Ride height 5mm

White Tamiya spring on rear shock
Exotek recommended rear shock oil(I do not have the manual with me)
rear shock length 64mm
front ball stud +2mm

Side damper Losi 60wt oil

1.5 front camber
front upper arm rear ball stud +1.5mm
.5 degree toe out

1oz weight on the front wing
289g 5000mah battery
F60 body and wing kit

I think the first thing I am going to try next is dropping my ride height some. I also have a set of medium front tires to try instead of the soft.
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