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Old 09-14-2011, 09:20 AM   #6301
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Originally Posted by Sonkind View Post
Thank you all for the advice, to switch the front end to 103 as well should I just use the standard Tamiya F103 front arms or would you suggest another brand(apologies never looked at the 103 so not fully aware of what will be required).

Also what is the best compounds to use for treated asphalt(we have a had quite a bit of rain so the traction is pretty patchy tbh).
For 103 foam, the Tamiya premounts (preassembled is what Tamiya calls em I think) from the 15th Anniversary are the best combo. Expensive this way though.
The donuts that are very similar and work for me are # 84095 and 84096.
I keep using these. May be other brands that have similar results but I don't know them.
If you want to stay with the F104 size/type and don't have to use Tamiya rubber then the best by far are the Pit Shimizu #...571 and ...572 and they are made to mount on the Tamiya rims made for foam. yep.
Other Pit Shimizu tires work well but these are the most durable as the others have very thin and vulnerable sidewalls as mentioned just a few posts ago.
"Tire Tweak" is the sauce that these tires like around here.
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Old 09-14-2011, 10:27 AM   #6302
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Anyone in need of a new body with wing set I have two for sale in So Cal. I have a f104 body and f103 body both I never raced because the car is not finsihed yet I decided I wanted something else. check out my post on rc tech there are pics.

F104 and F103 Bodies for sale
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Old 09-14-2011, 01:38 PM   #6303
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The F104 I've just picked up has the following mods!
Upgrades :-

Full Tamiya*Rear Allyo Gearbox

Tamiya Alloy pivot bracket

Modified YEAH Alloy servo holder

Tamiya Alloy turnbuckles

Tamiya Alloy ring Rear wing Bracket

Alloy center shock

Tamiya Carbon Axle

Tamiya Titanium Nitride kingpins.

I picked this up for 90! It's my
1st f104 an I think I've got a good deal but you guys will know more then me
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Old 09-14-2011, 06:46 PM   #6304
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Nice job Brad! Andy Wallace
Thanks Andy, you have been a big part of making this happen, and I appreciate it.
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Old 09-14-2011, 06:57 PM   #6305
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it should be the tamiya f60 body...which is what most people have been using to re-create some of the 2010/2011 team cars
It is in fact the F60, the McLaren Body is beautiful , but better for replicating the cars from 2 or 3 years ago
Here is my McLaren that I ran at the Nats

This is the F60 body with the Tamiya McLaren decals
And a TorroRosso before the wing was finished.

This was done on the McLaren MP4/24
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Old 09-14-2011, 07:17 PM   #6306
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Shadow, on that gorgeous black & gold Renault Lotus, how did you do the gold stripes? I don't see them on the decal sheet for that car.
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Old 09-14-2011, 07:19 PM   #6307
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Shadow, on that gorgeous black & gold Renault Lotus, how did you do the gold stripes? I don't see them on the decal sheet for that car.
Its all in the paint, I cut the paint masks and masked them in
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Old 09-14-2011, 07:20 PM   #6308
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Default New F104

I just picked up a F104 and have been reading this forum as quickly as I can to get up to speed. That being said, I have the stock can installed but it seems to go through batteries at an alarming rate. I need to keep this thing on leash but was wondering if anyone has tried sidewinder micro setup. I've heard of the drift guys using them. I figured tiny pinion and large spur. Thoughts?
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Old 09-14-2011, 07:54 PM   #6309
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I just picked up a F104 and have been reading this forum as quickly as I can to get up to speed. That being said, I have the stock can installed but it seems to go through batteries at an alarming rate. I need to keep this thing on leash but was wondering if anyone has tried sidewinder micro setup. I've heard of the drift guys using them. I figured tiny pinion and large spur. Thoughts?
what do you mean 'go thru batteries at an alarming' rate? you mean they are discharging/dumping quick? switching to another motor package may help - but it might be time to consider lipo (and appropriate charger)...I know guys can get in the neighborhood of 20-30 minutes with a 4000mah lipo back and the silver can motor...i believe the guys running the USF1 are running 10-15 min races, and don't believe i've read anything about people having battery issues (since they all are using lipo)...I last ran a 12-minute race, but i know the car was fine because I was out 15 mins in practice, but only made 1/2 the main because my lipo transmitter battery died (only after 5-ish hours on it) and needed to be recharged

you can also try a different gear ratio - I believe the F104 Pro came with 2 spurs and the one pinion...but the bigger spur on and it'll slow down the car, which should lead to (some) better battery life...

are you sure you're getting a full charge on your packs? i'm assuming they are nimh?
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Old 09-14-2011, 08:01 PM   #6310
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Default Body ?

Is there difference in handling betweem the F104 pro vs F60 bodies?
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Old 09-14-2011, 08:07 PM   #6311
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Originally Posted by k_bojar View Post
what do you mean 'go thru batteries at an alarming' rate? you mean they are discharging/dumping quick? switching to another motor package may help - but it might be time to consider lipo (and appropriate charger)...I know guys can get in the neighborhood of 20-30 minutes with a 4000mah lipo back and the silver can motor...i believe the guys running the USF1 are running 10-15 min races, and don't believe i've read anything about people having battery issues (since they all are using lipo)...I last ran a 12-minute race, but i know the car was fine because I was out 15 mins in practice, but only made 1/2 the main because my lipo transmitter battery died (only after 5-ish hours on it) and needed to be recharged

you can also try a different gear ratio - I believe the F104 Pro came with 2 spurs and the one pinion...but the bigger spur on and it'll slow down the car, which should lead to (some) better battery life...

are you sure you're getting a full charge on your packs? i'm assuming they are nimh?
Sounds to me like a few possible issues
Possible binding in the driveline, gear mesh too tight, motor wore out or drawing too much current.
I would tear the car down and clean and flush everything, and re oil with lightweight oil. Make sure the rear axle spin free and that the diff is not binding. Spray the motor out with motor spray and make sure it spins free and that the bushings are lubed. If you are running NiMH, make sure you dont have a dead cell in the pack, that will cause premature dumping in a big way. Even on NiMH the car should run 12-15 Min without a problem.
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Old 09-14-2011, 08:08 PM   #6312
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Originally Posted by transplantlife View Post
Is there difference in handling betweem the F104 pro vs F60 bodies?
The F60 turns better and is a bit more settled
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Old 09-14-2011, 08:09 PM   #6313
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The F60 turns better and is a bit more settled
Thank's BP
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Old 09-14-2011, 08:37 PM   #6314
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k_bojar View Post
what do you mean 'go thru batteries at an alarming' rate? you mean they are discharging/dumping quick? switching to another motor package may help - but it might be time to consider lipo (and appropriate charger)...I know guys can get in the neighborhood of 20-30 minutes with a 4000mah lipo back and the silver can motor...i believe the guys running the USF1 are running 10-15 min races, and don't believe i've read anything about people having battery issues (since they all are using lipo)...I last ran a 12-minute race, but i know the car was fine because I was out 15 mins in practice, but only made 1/2 the main because my lipo transmitter battery died (only after 5-ish hours on it) and needed to be recharged

you can also try a different gear ratio - I believe the F104 Pro came with 2 spurs and the one pinion...but the bigger spur on and it'll slow down the car, which should lead to (some) better battery life...

are you sure you're getting a full charge on your packs? i'm assuming they are nimh?
You are correct, I was talking about discharge rate. I plan on picking up new batteries, my current 2s 5000 are too thick. I am currently running a 2s 2000 and 2s 2200. I am not running anywhere near race conditions, still in shakedown mode, but I doubt I am getting 10 minutes. I've been out of RC for years so brushless motors are new to me. I was under the impression that one of the benefits (other than not having to rebuild) was increased efficiency. I was also under the impression USF1 was running 21.5 turn brushless systems and that TRC was running the silver can.

Any thoughts on the 1/18th sidewinder? Or should I just step up to a 21.5 brushless.
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Old 09-14-2011, 09:03 PM   #6315
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Go with brushless. I am running a Speed Passion Cirtix Stock Club Race with a Sportsman V2 13.5. With a 5000mah lipo I am getting 40 mins of run time.
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