Tamiya F104 Pro!
#6076
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
I was planning to race gas offroad o nthe 4th but apparently the race meet has been cancelled, so F1 it is !!! I did all sort of damage today to the 104... destroyed a rim and broke the rear left wheel hub after hitting the pit wall coming onto the main straight... destroyed the rim too.
Had my first shot with the Exotek chassi today too. My initial thoughts are that in cooler weather the exotek is better than the 104, however in warmer weather nothing can beat the 104 with medium tamiya rubber all round... it just works.
Had my first shot with the Exotek chassi today too. My initial thoughts are that in cooler weather the exotek is better than the 104, however in warmer weather nothing can beat the 104 with medium tamiya rubber all round... it just works.
#6077
Tech Champion
iTrader: (30)
its from a big F1 race we had over here in the states - and the dude that won car's is always dialed
#6080
One question I do have, we run the F1's in a open series so most of us run 13.5 Speed passion motors in the 104's with 103 rear tires, I have found the EX0103 and EX0104 through this forum and was wondering what chassis would be best for our track , http : // www .youtube.com/watch?feature=youtube_gdata&hl=th&v=WEhNk4bfsbM(ha d to space out the url as I am still new ) this is the only video of the track I could find that shows the full layout.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Last edited by Sonkind; 08-22-2011 at 09:30 AM.
#6082
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
This is concerning rules for the F1 class in Vegas, posted by Scotty:
Hi Everyone,
Well things continue to roll forward and looks great for the IIC. I have things all set for the F-1 Class and want to get the rules out for the class.
21.5 motor
Speedo in No boost mode.
Ride Handout Spec Tires and Rims. 1 set included with registration.
1 more additional set allowed for purchase. So 2 sets Maximum.
These 2 sets do not count for practice. You can get additional set for practice
180mm Maximum width
Realistic Bodies and wings
All races will be 5 min long.
This is very important. For those racers who have already signed up for the IIC and the F-1 Class will be an additional class. You will not be able to use the online registration off the website. We have been working to implement a additional class signup but it is not possible right now without a longer delay in the process, so this is how it will work.
If this is an additional class for you, You will need to email me at [email protected] and boomer at [email protected] with all the information. THIS MUST INCLUDE WHAT TYPE OF RIMS YOU WILL NEED. TAMIYA F104 OR HPI F10 RIMS and how many sets you would like. When you tell me how many you want, you will be required to purchase your ordered amount no exceptions. Then you will need to send a payment to my Pay Pal account to [email protected] Price for an additional class is $93.25 this includes the Pay Pal fee.
For those racers who have not registered yet for the IIC, then you can go to intchamps.com and use the online registration process. F-1 Class is a option to choose from the drop down menu and it will calculate everything as you go through the process. But I will still need an email from you regarding what rims you will need and how many sets you want.
The F-1 class is going to be a great addition to the IIC and our hope is that it will be a class that will grow to be a staple of the event.
Hi Everyone,
Well things continue to roll forward and looks great for the IIC. I have things all set for the F-1 Class and want to get the rules out for the class.
21.5 motor
Speedo in No boost mode.
Ride Handout Spec Tires and Rims. 1 set included with registration.
1 more additional set allowed for purchase. So 2 sets Maximum.
These 2 sets do not count for practice. You can get additional set for practice
180mm Maximum width
Realistic Bodies and wings
All races will be 5 min long.
This is very important. For those racers who have already signed up for the IIC and the F-1 Class will be an additional class. You will not be able to use the online registration off the website. We have been working to implement a additional class signup but it is not possible right now without a longer delay in the process, so this is how it will work.
If this is an additional class for you, You will need to email me at [email protected] and boomer at [email protected] with all the information. THIS MUST INCLUDE WHAT TYPE OF RIMS YOU WILL NEED. TAMIYA F104 OR HPI F10 RIMS and how many sets you would like. When you tell me how many you want, you will be required to purchase your ordered amount no exceptions. Then you will need to send a payment to my Pay Pal account to [email protected] Price for an additional class is $93.25 this includes the Pay Pal fee.
For those racers who have not registered yet for the IIC, then you can go to intchamps.com and use the online registration process. F-1 Class is a option to choose from the drop down menu and it will calculate everything as you go through the process. But I will still need an email from you regarding what rims you will need and how many sets you want.
The F-1 class is going to be a great addition to the IIC and our hope is that it will be a class that will grow to be a staple of the event.
#6085
I sure this has been asked before, but what kind of wheels and tires work best for F104/F104X1? Thanks.
#6086
thought I'd post some picks of my X1 up.
Firstly, excuse the yellow wire (although I don't think it goes too badly with the gold anodising), but it was the thinnest the shop had! I've got some black 16AWG on the way for the motor to limit pod infulence, but I'm tempted to keep the power wires yellow....
Other points... yes, I've got a big square LiPo in there, so have the pain of having to take off the top deck to get it in and out. What I have done is mount in all the posts, but at the moment only use the two forward most holes. Also, where I've got the heavy pivot post fitted, I've removed the spacers, and replaced with alloy ones so I can use a nut to lock the screws in place
Battery movement forward is stopped by a small piece of cut of plastic servo taped to the chassis, and the ESC and reciver mounts, which placed on the posts, and servo taped to the cells... Does mean I can shift the cells a long way forward if required for balance.
Only other thing I did (as I really didn't like it!) was remove some material from the top of the ESC/Reciever mounts, so the O-ring sits just under flush on the post, so as not to apply any pressure to the top deck.
Otherwise, thats it... roll on this weekend to try some more bits out!
Ed
Firstly, excuse the yellow wire (although I don't think it goes too badly with the gold anodising), but it was the thinnest the shop had! I've got some black 16AWG on the way for the motor to limit pod infulence, but I'm tempted to keep the power wires yellow....
Other points... yes, I've got a big square LiPo in there, so have the pain of having to take off the top deck to get it in and out. What I have done is mount in all the posts, but at the moment only use the two forward most holes. Also, where I've got the heavy pivot post fitted, I've removed the spacers, and replaced with alloy ones so I can use a nut to lock the screws in place
Battery movement forward is stopped by a small piece of cut of plastic servo taped to the chassis, and the ESC and reciver mounts, which placed on the posts, and servo taped to the cells... Does mean I can shift the cells a long way forward if required for balance.
Only other thing I did (as I really didn't like it!) was remove some material from the top of the ESC/Reciever mounts, so the O-ring sits just under flush on the post, so as not to apply any pressure to the top deck.
Otherwise, thats it... roll on this weekend to try some more bits out!
Ed