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Old 08-10-2011, 08:47 PM   #5986
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
thought I'd post some picks of my X1 up.

Firstly, excuse the yellow wire (although I don't think it goes too badly with the gold anodising), but it was the thinnest the shop had! I've got some black 16AWG on the way for the motor to limit pod infulence, but I'm tempted to keep the power wires yellow....

Other points... yes, I've got a big square LiPo in there, so have the pain of having to take off the top deck to get it in and out. What I have done is mount in all the posts, but at the moment only use the two forward most holes. Also, where I've got the heavy pivot post fitted, I've removed the spacers, and replaced with alloy ones so I can use a nut to lock the screws in place

Battery movement forward is stopped by a small piece of cut of plastic servo taped to the chassis, and the ESC and reciver mounts, which placed on the posts, and servo taped to the cells... Does mean I can shift the cells a long way forward if required for balance.

Only other thing I did (as I really didn't like it!) was remove some material from the top of the ESC/Reciever mounts, so the O-ring sits just under flush on the post, so as not to apply any pressure to the top deck.

Otherwise, thats it... roll on this weekend to try some more bits out!

Ed

Yikes, even with removing the one T-bar screw, you are not able to get the pack in there through the conventional way? =/
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Old 08-11-2011, 01:01 AM   #5987
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Yikes, even with removing the one T-bar screw, you are not able to get the pack in there through the conventional way? =/
Yup... top deck off is the only way... but I figure that I'm going to use so little ampege, so charging is going to be rare, that it really isn't much of a problem!
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Old 08-11-2011, 01:16 AM   #5988
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What is the difference between getting a big square battery in an X1 and a standard F104?

I'm able to slide mine in but it is necessary to remove the front left and the right rear top deck posts before it will go in diagonally. I have the short top deck hop up that uses 4 posts now.
Is the heavy rear pivot a different shape than the standard part?
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Old 08-11-2011, 03:21 AM   #5989
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Any one knows if the F104W bodies will be sold seperately?
Looking for one as i just recieved my F104Pro today.
Or are there other bodies out there that have the looks of the "old" F1 cars like the Mclaren MP4/6?

regards Roy
zen racing do a 104w body which is the same style as the mp4/6

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-led...?cPath=438_883

i used one for my mp4/5-6.it looks pretty good
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Old 08-11-2011, 03:28 AM   #5990
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What spoiler should i use with this body?
The original Tamiya spoiler and rear wing?

regards Roy
Ps Thanks for the link

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zen racing do a 104w body which is the same style as the mp4/6

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-led...?cPath=438_883

i used one for my mp4/5-6.it looks pretty good
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Old 08-11-2011, 03:32 AM   #5991
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Originally Posted by F N CUDA View Post
What is the difference between getting a big square battery in an X1 and a standard F104?

I'm able to slide mine in but it is necessary to remove the front left and the right rear top deck posts before it will go in diagonally. I have the short top deck hop up that uses 4 posts now.
Is the heavy rear pivot a different shape than the standard part?
TBH, I couldn't tell you... all I know is it was a royal PIA to try and get it in, and I figured this was the easier way. Also had to trim electronics holders anyway because of the width.
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Old 08-11-2011, 11:17 AM   #5992
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Old 08-11-2011, 11:17 AM   #5993
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TBH, I couldn't tell you... all I know is it was a royal PIA to try and get it in, and I figured this was the easier way. Also had to trim electronics holders anyway because of the width.
Trimming the electronics "wings" is typical for the fat pack.
I actually trimmed mine, by accident, into an almost closed C shape and can snap them on and off if necessary but they will stay on.

I loosen the top screws also and I have even run a pack that had swolen a little due to running it a bit too low.
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Old 08-11-2011, 08:05 PM   #5994
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Trimming the electronics "wings" is typical for the fat pack.
I actually trimmed mine, by accident, into an almost closed C shape and can snap them on and off if necessary but they will stay on.

I loosen the top screws also and I have even run a pack that had swolen a little due to running it a bit too low.
I think I trimmed mine a little too much, as I can pop them off a little too easily for my liking (hence taping to the pack). I might get some replacements and have a play... was also having a discussion with someone yesterday, and has anyone tried the Losi 96mm LiPo in their cars? wondering if that pack would be an idea for less weight/more balance adjustment...
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Last edited by TryHard; 08-11-2011 at 08:42 PM.
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Old 08-12-2011, 12:25 AM   #5995
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
I think I trimmed mine a little too much, as I can pop them off a little too easily for my liking (hence taping to the pack). I might get some replacements and have a play... was also having a discussion with someone yesterday, and has anyone tried the Losi 96mm LiPo in their cars? wondering if that pack would be an idea for less weight/more balance adjustment...
I race the crap out of the Losi 22 as my primary racecar (you all need this car!) and have 2 of the shorty 96mm/200g packs but never tried em in the F104.
Was going to try it but this year it is not Tamiya legal for their Nationals this month.
I am however gonna try it at Tamiya's "Fun" race this Saturday as well as at the UF1 race Sunday.
I'm guessing that it may just be the hot ticket.
Others have run the even smaller 1800 lipos and only would alter that due to 8 min. mains on carpet.
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Old 08-12-2011, 01:54 AM   #5996
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I race the crap out of the Losi 22 as my primary racecar (you all need this car!) and have 2 of the shorty 96mm/200g packs but never tried em in the F104.
Was going to try it but this year it is not Tamiya legal for their Nationals this month.
I am however gonna try it at Tamiya's "Fun" race this Saturday as well as at the UF1 race Sunday.
I'm guessing that it may just be the hot ticket.
Others have run the even smaller 1800 lipos and only would alter that due to 8 min. mains on carpet.
I did see robk mention about using a small, lighter, 1800mah lipo in one of his blog posts, which is what got me thinking about it.
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Old 08-12-2011, 03:45 AM   #5997
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Originally Posted by Pro10noob View Post
What spoiler should i use with this body?
The original Tamiya spoiler and rear wing?

regards Roy
Ps Thanks for the link
i used a 103 front wing. i tried a couple of different ones from rcmart and they looked and went really good. same with the rear wing
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Old 08-12-2011, 06:36 AM   #5998
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I am about 1/2 way through reading this whole forum. A couple of questions.

How are people finding the F104X1 chassis on asphalt?
What is recommended, a F104Pro, F104Pro Black (if can find one) or F104X1 for low/medium grip asphalt?
What are the must have hop-ups and what are the desirable ones?
What tire would people recommend for asphalt? Will be running a 13T Hobbywing un-sensored brushless set-up.
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Old 08-12-2011, 03:01 PM   #5999
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The 1800 will run 8 minutes...the light weight is really only an advantage in high traction situations. Most asphalt tracks will be partial to a normal sized battery. If your race director gets crazy with the VHT or a bunch of coke syrup, then the 1800 type battery would be the way to go.
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Old 08-12-2011, 04:22 PM   #6000
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Anyone running a F104W? I recently bought one. I was little disappointed with some of the parts. Didn't come with true turnbuckles, and despite what the description of car said, it did NOT come with a full set of ball bearings. The diff has cheap bushings instead of bearings and the front wheels use overgrown "washers" as bearings. You have to lube up the axles to use them. Very disappointing. I heard that the wide stance makes it handle better than the narrow PRO models. So, I'm slowly turning it into a F104W "PRO". After driving though, I have to say that I really like it.
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