Tamiya F104 Pro!
#5986
thought I'd post some picks of my X1 up.
Firstly, excuse the yellow wire (although I don't think it goes too badly with the gold anodising), but it was the thinnest the shop had! I've got some black 16AWG on the way for the motor to limit pod infulence, but I'm tempted to keep the power wires yellow....
Other points... yes, I've got a big square LiPo in there, so have the pain of having to take off the top deck to get it in and out. What I have done is mount in all the posts, but at the moment only use the two forward most holes. Also, where I've got the heavy pivot post fitted, I've removed the spacers, and replaced with alloy ones so I can use a nut to lock the screws in place
Battery movement forward is stopped by a small piece of cut of plastic servo taped to the chassis, and the ESC and reciver mounts, which placed on the posts, and servo taped to the cells... Does mean I can shift the cells a long way forward if required for balance.
Only other thing I did (as I really didn't like it!) was remove some material from the top of the ESC/Reciever mounts, so the O-ring sits just under flush on the post, so as not to apply any pressure to the top deck.
Otherwise, thats it... roll on this weekend to try some more bits out!
Ed
Firstly, excuse the yellow wire (although I don't think it goes too badly with the gold anodising), but it was the thinnest the shop had! I've got some black 16AWG on the way for the motor to limit pod infulence, but I'm tempted to keep the power wires yellow....
Other points... yes, I've got a big square LiPo in there, so have the pain of having to take off the top deck to get it in and out. What I have done is mount in all the posts, but at the moment only use the two forward most holes. Also, where I've got the heavy pivot post fitted, I've removed the spacers, and replaced with alloy ones so I can use a nut to lock the screws in place
Battery movement forward is stopped by a small piece of cut of plastic servo taped to the chassis, and the ESC and reciver mounts, which placed on the posts, and servo taped to the cells... Does mean I can shift the cells a long way forward if required for balance.
Only other thing I did (as I really didn't like it!) was remove some material from the top of the ESC/Reciever mounts, so the O-ring sits just under flush on the post, so as not to apply any pressure to the top deck.
Otherwise, thats it... roll on this weekend to try some more bits out!
Ed
Yikes, even with removing the one T-bar screw, you are not able to get the pack in there through the conventional way? =/
#5988
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
What is the difference between getting a big square battery in an X1 and a standard F104?
I'm able to slide mine in but it is necessary to remove the front left and the right rear top deck posts before it will go in diagonally. I have the short top deck hop up that uses 4 posts now.
Is the heavy rear pivot a different shape than the standard part?
I'm able to slide mine in but it is necessary to remove the front left and the right rear top deck posts before it will go in diagonally. I have the short top deck hop up that uses 4 posts now.
Is the heavy rear pivot a different shape than the standard part?
#5989
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-led...?cPath=438_883
i used one for my mp4/5-6.it looks pretty good
#5990
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
What spoiler should i use with this body?
The original Tamiya spoiler and rear wing?
regards Roy
Ps Thanks for the link
The original Tamiya spoiler and rear wing?
regards Roy
Ps Thanks for the link
zen racing do a 104w body which is the same style as the mp4/6
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-led...?cPath=438_883
i used one for my mp4/5-6.it looks pretty good
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-led...?cPath=438_883
i used one for my mp4/5-6.it looks pretty good
#5991
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
What is the difference between getting a big square battery in an X1 and a standard F104?
I'm able to slide mine in but it is necessary to remove the front left and the right rear top deck posts before it will go in diagonally. I have the short top deck hop up that uses 4 posts now.
Is the heavy rear pivot a different shape than the standard part?
I'm able to slide mine in but it is necessary to remove the front left and the right rear top deck posts before it will go in diagonally. I have the short top deck hop up that uses 4 posts now.
Is the heavy rear pivot a different shape than the standard part?
#5992
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
UF1 Series
This Sunday August 14th... UF1 Series race 6 will be at Monte Carlo ( Speedtech )
http://uf1series.com/schedule.html
http://uf1series.com/schedule.html
#5993
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
I actually trimmed mine, by accident, into an almost closed C shape and can snap them on and off if necessary but they will stay on.
I loosen the top screws also and I have even run a pack that had swolen a little due to running it a bit too low.
#5994
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Trimming the electronics "wings" is typical for the fat pack.
I actually trimmed mine, by accident, into an almost closed C shape and can snap them on and off if necessary but they will stay on.
I loosen the top screws also and I have even run a pack that had swolen a little due to running it a bit too low.
I actually trimmed mine, by accident, into an almost closed C shape and can snap them on and off if necessary but they will stay on.
I loosen the top screws also and I have even run a pack that had swolen a little due to running it a bit too low.
Last edited by TryHard; 08-11-2011 at 07:42 PM.
#5995
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
I think I trimmed mine a little too much, as I can pop them off a little too easily for my liking (hence taping to the pack). I might get some replacements and have a play... was also having a discussion with someone yesterday, and has anyone tried the Losi 96mm LiPo in their cars? wondering if that pack would be an idea for less weight/more balance adjustment...
Was going to try it but this year it is not Tamiya legal for their Nationals this month.
I am however gonna try it at Tamiya's "Fun" race this Saturday as well as at the UF1 race Sunday.
I'm guessing that it may just be the hot ticket.
Others have run the even smaller 1800 lipos and only would alter that due to 8 min. mains on carpet.
#5996
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
I race the crap out of the Losi 22 as my primary racecar (you all need this car!) and have 2 of the shorty 96mm/200g packs but never tried em in the F104.
Was going to try it but this year it is not Tamiya legal for their Nationals this month.
I am however gonna try it at Tamiya's "Fun" race this Saturday as well as at the UF1 race Sunday.
I'm guessing that it may just be the hot ticket.
Others have run the even smaller 1800 lipos and only would alter that due to 8 min. mains on carpet.
Was going to try it but this year it is not Tamiya legal for their Nationals this month.
I am however gonna try it at Tamiya's "Fun" race this Saturday as well as at the UF1 race Sunday.
I'm guessing that it may just be the hot ticket.
Others have run the even smaller 1800 lipos and only would alter that due to 8 min. mains on carpet.
#5997
#5998
Tech Regular
iTrader: (13)
I am about 1/2 way through reading this whole forum. A couple of questions.
How are people finding the F104X1 chassis on asphalt?
What is recommended, a F104Pro, F104Pro Black (if can find one) or F104X1 for low/medium grip asphalt?
What are the must have hop-ups and what are the desirable ones?
What tire would people recommend for asphalt? Will be running a 13T Hobbywing un-sensored brushless set-up.
How are people finding the F104X1 chassis on asphalt?
What is recommended, a F104Pro, F104Pro Black (if can find one) or F104X1 for low/medium grip asphalt?
What are the must have hop-ups and what are the desirable ones?
What tire would people recommend for asphalt? Will be running a 13T Hobbywing un-sensored brushless set-up.
#5999
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
The 1800 will run 8 minutes...the light weight is really only an advantage in high traction situations. Most asphalt tracks will be partial to a normal sized battery. If your race director gets crazy with the VHT or a bunch of coke syrup, then the 1800 type battery would be the way to go.
#6000
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (114)
F014W
Anyone running a F104W? I recently bought one. I was little disappointed with some of the parts. Didn't come with true turnbuckles, and despite what the description of car said, it did NOT come with a full set of ball bearings. The diff has cheap bushings instead of bearings and the front wheels use overgrown "washers" as bearings. You have to lube up the axles to use them. Very disappointing. I heard that the wide stance makes it handle better than the narrow PRO models. So, I'm slowly turning it into a F104W "PRO". After driving though, I have to say that I really like it.