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Old 08-02-2011, 10:59 PM   #5926
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McLaren currently has more points and has better drivers so i would go with them
nice.
if the "red phone" stays silent - the points will stay as they are.
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Old 08-03-2011, 12:06 AM   #5927
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Where's the cheapest place to find 1 of these kits? Cheapest so far I've found is eBay a McLaren MP4/24 at 130 including postage
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Old 08-03-2011, 12:23 AM   #5928
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rcmart.com & etamiya.com but you have to wait for while to re-stock. two days ago it was available.
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Old 08-03-2011, 06:14 AM   #5929
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You will not get it by the weekend but RcMart have them in stock as do some of the HK based ebay shops.
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-f10...4-p-32658.html
By description it's alloy and not steel.
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Old 08-03-2011, 07:57 AM   #5930
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.
Tamiya F104 Pro!-f10_option_parts.jpg
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Old 08-03-2011, 08:34 AM   #5931
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Default F104 lower chassis needed

Hello Gent's,

Anyone out there want to sell a spare F104 fiberglass lower chassis?
(#4005133)

Searched US retailers but have struck out so far.

Thanks,

John
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Old 08-03-2011, 03:51 PM   #5932
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85 for a F60!!! Bargin lol
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Old 08-03-2011, 10:22 PM   #5933
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So I have been playing around with my f104x1 and the car seems to pull to the left. I have put lead weights to balance out the electronics but I am still having the problem. Iam running +75 exponential on my remote. Iam running an reedy sonic 21.5 bl motor. I tried but to fix it but cant get rid of it so im asking for some assistance. Thank you
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Old 08-03-2011, 10:54 PM   #5934
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Wooo Hooo.... Thanks to speedy service from RC Mart (ok, I'm mainland china, but even so, two days is good!), I have a nice big box currently residing under my desk in the office at the moment... and my evening has just become booked up
Just need to be able to concentrate on my work for the rest of the day... 4hours left!

I do have one more question... I've seen a lot of comments about setting up the t-bar differnetly to kit (outer holes, looser o-ring etc). Can someone give a quick summary of what to expect by doing certain things? Thanks in advance!

Ed
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Last edited by TryHard; 08-03-2011 at 11:52 PM.
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Old 08-04-2011, 12:54 AM   #5935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robk View Post
Add a 1mm washer under the rear ball stud on the upper arm(where it meets the servo mount). That will make it steer more in the center of the turn and not wash out as much---adds to the reactive caster effect. You may also want to try various greases and/or diff oils on the kingpins. Generally, it seems like the heavier the dampening, the more reactive the car will be.
Hey Rob, just been reading your front end setup article, and on this point, is there any reason why you say raise the rear 1mm, rather than lowering the front at the camber plate? is it a case of wanting raise the arm, rather than lower it?

Cheers
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Old 08-04-2011, 02:09 AM   #5936
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The front camber plate mounts as low as it can go without modifying it. It is much easier to just add a washer to the rear than take a Dremel to the front of the arm mount.
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Old 08-04-2011, 07:29 AM   #5937
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I'm in the process of converting my F104 Pro to the EXO104 kit. In addition to the chassis I purchased the F104 bolt in servo mounts. I plan on going with the lay down servo configuration and will be using the inner bottom grub screw hole location (as instructed in the manual). I'm finding that the lower arm gets in the way of the lower inner grub screw. I wanted to make sure I wasn't missing/overlooking anything before I take a dremel to this piece.
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Old 08-04-2011, 08:48 AM   #5938
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Does anyone know of any racing venues/ events in the DesMoines area this weekend that may have F1 racing?

Going to the area and will have time to race Sunday but do not know of any tracks or races being held there....
Any help would be much appreciated.

BM
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Old 08-04-2011, 10:47 AM   #5939
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
The front camber plate mounts as low as it can go without modifying it. It is much easier to just add a washer to the rear than take a Dremel to the front of the arm mount.
Not if your using the alloy plate with the screw in hex balls, which require 1mm of spacers to reach the same height as the standard nut type balls...

Anyway, my X1 is built. Went together really easy with a bit of help from on here, and feels nice. Have made a few small changes as I've gone along, but mostly gives options for the future!
It looks pimp too IMO, as I've gone colour matching! Actually isn't a single bit of blue on the car, which I think kinda suits it Now to just get a black HW extreme stock esc and and I'm sorted!

Will post some pictures tomorrow
Ed

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Old 08-04-2011, 12:27 PM   #5940
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Hey Rob, just been reading your front end setup article, and on this point, is there any reason why you say raise the rear 1mm, rather than lowering the front at the camber plate? is it a case of wanting raise the arm, rather than lower it?

Cheers
Ed
Ed
The plate is dropped as low as it can go, and then the front ball is spaced up as needed to set the camber gain. This is for maximum adjustability. The rear ballstud I consider a wholly separate adjustment. While it is affected as the front ball stud is moved up or down, moving the rear ball stud impacts the "reactive caster" more directly.

I worry more about camber gain and the overall height of the arm first, and the reactive caster is secondary. The reactive caster is a good adjustment, but it's pretty specific (mid corner front end grip). The camber gain is a lot more macro.
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