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Old 07-31-2011, 08:24 PM   #5881
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I'm almost in the same boat as you Rod, but I have plenty of rear grip at the moment. I might give Silver springs up front a try and see how that goes. Otherwise I'm going to have to start getting creative :P.
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Old 07-31-2011, 08:49 PM   #5882
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[QUOTE=rtypec;9464612]A year or two ago, Speedtech brought a bunch to the track one weekend. You may try pinging them (Stitchy here on the forums) to see if they have any left. Also, you can try Tamiya directly or as a last resort, you can try to find a Tamiya F103 Type C body set part number 84070]

thanks for the information.....i'll continue my enquiries.
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Old 07-31-2011, 09:13 PM   #5883
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
So.... I may be crazy, but I think the F104 pushes a lot. On a prepped high traction track, it seems like it has a lot of trouble just turning in and taking a set. What springs are you guys running the in the front at the moment?

-Korey
Add a 1mm washer under the rear ball stud on the upper arm(where it meets the servo mount). That will make it steer more in the center of the turn and not wash out as much---adds to the reactive caster effect. You may also want to try various greases and/or diff oils on the kingpins. Generally, it seems like the heavier the dampening, the more reactive the car will be.

Another thing is the t bar-which one are you using? The "high traction" t bar actually lets the car wrap the corner more because it has more articulation. The soft tbar is the same material, but it has no cut out in it. If you do a back to back, the soft t bar takes rotation out of the car, in fact it will want to slide rather than rotate. It also helps to run the screw about as loose as you can get it. In fact, if you don't race TCS races, I would just take the center adjustment screw out and let the t bar flop. You can glue a foam donut from an Associated shock rebuild or even one of the pink foams for the bladders in a Tamiya shock and glue it on the tbar over the screw hole to keep the ride height the same. That's how we were running the car out here until we found out it is illegal for TCS

You can also space out the rear axle as well like a 1/12 car. 1.5mm per side is about all you can get out of the axle. You will need long shank pinions for a 540 motor.

One other thing, if the track is really high traction, you might want to try touring car inserts in the tires. Last year they were really saturating our track with coke syrup, and I was using 24mm sedan inserts cut down to fit the rim. They made car car steer way more. This just makes you do donuts if there is not a lot of traction, though.
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Old 07-31-2011, 09:32 PM   #5884
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The reactive caster thing is something on my list of things to try. A local here has played with it a bit and liked it last year. I'm running 10K on the kingpins right now as it seemed to smooth the car out over bumps and such.

I've tried both the high traction T-Bar (with the center screw) and the std stiff T-Bar without the center screw. The High traction T bar was better over bumps and such, but the stock T-Bar with the center screw removed proved to rotate into the corner a lot better, and provide more forward grip. It might be something I explore a little more.

Thanks for the tips!

-Korey
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Old 07-31-2011, 10:01 PM   #5885
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Don't be afraid to go big on the king pin lube. 60,000 and up can be viable at times.
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Old 08-01-2011, 03:57 AM   #5886
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Also make sure the upper arms aren't too tight on the pivot balls...this can cause the car to act like it is sprung and dampened heavily up front.
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Old 08-01-2011, 07:35 AM   #5887
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I guess no one has looked at the TRG site recently?
or was my post ignored?

well this is what you missed (F104W fitment)



More pictures here
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Old 08-01-2011, 10:17 AM   #5888
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
That just looks sweet... gives me an idea for the future

Anyway, I think I've settled on a early '90's Ferrari scheme for mine when it arrives (a bit boring, but well, the shop didn't have all the paints, haha!) so red with black wings...

I'll save the pucker job for my painter... he won't know whats hit him.. haha!

Cheers
Ed
Hi Ed

I'd not seen that shell, and a matt carbon effect for a "test car" look would rock. Briefly considered a McLaren orange test scheme which harked back to when they first started racing, but Fran wasn't keen (only needed a set of West stickers to finish it too).

Also found some good sticker sets including one for the current Ferrari. Only needed red paint and the stickers did the hard work Was back I used to race an mid-90s Ferrari with a Jean Alesi driver figure, which I really liked.

Make sure Rich has a challenge with the pukka shell

Cheers
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Old 08-01-2011, 12:07 PM   #5889
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NiMo View Post
I guess no one has looked at the TRG site recently?
or was my post ignored?

well this is what you missed (F104W fitment)



More pictures here
What is it supposed to be? Not an f1 car?
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Old 08-01-2011, 12:22 PM   #5890
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What is it supposed to be? Not an f1 car?
Do you not know F1 history?
Bernie Ecclestone worked for this F1 team.
It is the Brabham BT45B, out around the same time as the Tyrrell P34 and the Lotus 78.


This site may help you remember?
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Old 08-01-2011, 12:46 PM   #5891
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if only it were the bt46b
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Old 08-01-2011, 12:50 PM   #5892
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if only it were the bt46b
The famous 'FAN' car
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Old 08-01-2011, 01:27 PM   #5893
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The problem is that I have to stick to scala appearance.

I mounted a wing from B4 and yes, it went well but was not conforms with the club and the scala rules
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Old 08-01-2011, 01:43 PM   #5894
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Quote:
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What is it supposed to be? Not an f1 car?



Brabham BT 45???
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Old 08-01-2011, 01:45 PM   #5895
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The famous 'FAN' car
Very nice NiMo
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