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Old 05-11-2011, 02:11 PM   #5161
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Originally Posted by robk View Post
Rc4less also has mounted tires.
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Old 05-11-2011, 05:33 PM   #5162
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Originally Posted by kuanseng1981 View Post
Btw have any1 tried to mod the F104 to fit a normal Square Lipo pack rather than a rounded stick pack
no need to mod, just put the battery in unconventionally..
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Old 05-11-2011, 05:46 PM   #5163
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The F104 doesn't have rounded battery holders like the old F103 did so a normal flat sided LiPo should fit in it just fine. I say should because I haven't installed electronics in mine yet to find out.
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Old 05-11-2011, 05:49 PM   #5164
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thanx ,just ordered a few sets from RC4less, hopefully they last longer than the Tamiya
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Old 05-11-2011, 07:11 PM   #5165
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Hey Guys,

im ordering my f104 tomorrow but i'm having a hard time picking between the F104 Pro and F104 F60, i know the pro has ball bearings and so forth but what would be the best one to get.

Also there is alot of people running 32t motors to 21.5t and would running brushless compared to brushed make a difference in the leanring curve.

I currently have the HPI F10 with the exotech and yeah racing upgrades, but i havnt run it yet and was wondering how they would compare to each other as i had nothing but over steer issue with my 13t motor in the f1 car lol.

Sorry if im asking noobish questions but i want to make sure i get the right car for me with as much research and asking questions from experianced people.
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Old 05-11-2011, 07:23 PM   #5166
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Originally Posted by pokiou View Post
Hey Guys,

im ordering my f104 tomorrow but i'm having a hard time picking between the F104 Pro and F104 F60, i know the pro has ball bearings and so forth but what would be the best one to get.

Also there is alot of people running 32t motors to 21.5t and would running brushless compared to brushed make a difference in the leanring curve.

I currently have the HPI F10 with the exotech and yeah racing upgrades, but i havnt run it yet and was wondering how they would compare to each other as i had nothing but over steer issue with my 13t motor in the f1 car lol.

Sorry if im asking noobish questions but i want to make sure i get the right car for me with as much research and asking questions from experianced people.
F60=rubber tire and more flexible chassis, asphalt car (rubber tires take time to tune but last)
F104 Pro=foam tire graphite chassis, carpet car (foam tires give more traction but wear quicker and require more attention to optimize)
HPI F10=F104 bait
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Old 05-12-2011, 04:45 AM   #5167
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new photos......enjoy~~~
Attached Thumbnails
Tamiya F104 Pro!-1.jpg   Tamiya F104 Pro!-2.jpg   Tamiya F104 Pro!-3.jpg   Tamiya F104 Pro!-4.jpg  
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Old 05-12-2011, 07:01 AM   #5168
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Wow, that's really pretty. Calls for a JPS paint job, too...
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Old 05-12-2011, 07:48 AM   #5169
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interesting...upper and lower FRP plates...I wonder if the FRP upper split deck will be available separately??

look nice - don't get me wrong, love the tamiya blue but it don't look right showing so much with the F1 bodies
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Old 05-12-2011, 08:06 AM   #5170
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So I decided to completely rebuild the F104 that I have in hopes of eventually getting to race it on asphalt this summer. In rebuilding the car, though, I noticed to alignment issues that will cause potential issues, and I'm wondering how you guys are compensating for them.

One, the front end sits in slots in the chassis, and then is clamped down through the two LONG screws that go through everything. In this assembly, it is entirely possible to turn the whole front end in the chassis at least 1 or 2°—completely away from square.

I noticed the same thing in the attaching of the rear pod to the T-bar—you can cock the rear end in the car at least a couple of visible degrees from square in the chassis, even when everything is clamped down.

Short of putting everything together, and then getting wheelbase measurements and cross dimensions, how are you guys assuring that EVERYTHING is perfectly square when putting it all together? Am I missing something obvious?

Rob, are you out there?







BTW, if anyone would like a super clean brushed Novak GTX, a new silvercan and a one-run Orion Rocket Pack LiPo, I'll have them in the Classifieds shortly.
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Old 05-12-2011, 09:08 AM   #5171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheROK1212 View Post
F60=rubber tire and more flexible chassis, asphalt car (rubber tires take time to tune but last)
F104 Pro=foam tire graphite chassis, carpet car (foam tires give more traction but wear quicker and require more attention to optimize)
HPI F10=F104 bait

Lol I dont know- in the UF1 series here the F10 finished 1 and 2 in the rubber class We'll see how the F104's fare this week at the UF1 round at the Tamiya HQ track.
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Old 05-12-2011, 01:24 PM   #5172
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Chauncey has not seen the Exotek/HPI team in action due to the Mississippi river and the Rocky mountains being in the way....
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Old 05-12-2011, 01:34 PM   #5173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squarehead View Post
So I decided to completely rebuild the F104 that I have in hopes of eventually getting to race it on asphalt this summer. In rebuilding the car, though, I noticed to alignment issues that will cause potential issues, and I'm wondering how you guys are compensating for them.

One, the front end sits in slots in the chassis, and then is clamped down through the two LONG screws that go through everything. In this assembly, it is entirely possible to turn the whole front end in the chassis at least 1 or 2°—completely away from square.

I noticed the same thing in the attaching of the rear pod to the T-bar—you can cock the rear end in the car at least a couple of visible degrees from square in the chassis, even when everything is clamped down.

Short of putting everything together, and then getting wheelbase measurements and cross dimensions, how are you guys assuring that EVERYTHING is perfectly square when putting it all together? Am I missing something obvious?

Rob, are you out there?







BTW, if anyone would like a super clean brushed Novak GTX, a new silvercan and a one-run Orion Rocket Pack LiPo, I'll have them in the Classifieds shortly.
This is a used car right? Is the plastic ok or is worn? I really have never had a problem with this kind of stuff (dog tracking, etc.)

The other thing is I'm assuming you are using a wide front end? The F104 front end is also located by the screws that go through the servo mount, so I can't imagine there being too much problem if it's located by 4 screws. The old front end, yeah maybe.

One thing I had to do with my 3 Racing car was to pin the front end. I got it lined up straight and then drilled 4 holes in the "slot" area of the front end, and used grub screws to keep everything lined up.




PS We just need to get you down to the track so we can shake that thing down. I think you are suffering cabin knee fever. LOL
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Old 05-12-2011, 01:43 PM   #5174
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Another thing you can do is build up a few layers of CA around the slot edges until the arm fits tight in the slot so it can't move around.
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Old 05-12-2011, 02:18 PM   #5175
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robk View Post
This is a used car right? Is the plastic ok or is worn? I really have never had a problem with this kind of stuff (dog tracking, etc.)
Yeah, use car. I just put the F104 front end on it for now (the wide front end just LOOKS wrong). This car will probably be my 3rd class car, so I'm not sure how far I want to dig into it to get into "race" mode.

I think as I built it back up, a lot of the centering comes from the countersinks on the screws, for the most part. Once everything is tightened up, it seems to be relatively square.



Quote:
PS We just need to get you down to the track so we can shake that thing down. I think you are suffering cabin knee fever. LOL
Good grief, you aren't kidding at all! This is what I get for having the VTA and USGTA cars done and ready to race—I get to overthink the setup on a plastic-fantastic F1 pan car for a month and a half. Now, about those rubber tires...
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