R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-19-2011, 08:12 PM   #4966
Tech Adept
 
The Big Wig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: A.K.A. Barry White
Posts: 150
Default

Teflon tape on the pads wich are then sanded down (not done in the pic yet) allong with the friction plate.
Aero tape on wing underside. This is the same stuff that iceskaters put on their legs to create little vortexes and fill the underpressure behind their legs (if it helps on that car I dunno but I'll annoy some fellow racers for sure).
6x0.7mm beveled piston holes (harder rebound).
Attached Thumbnails
Tamiya F104 Pro!-img_2846k.jpg   Tamiya F104 Pro!-img_2845k.jpg   Tamiya F104 Pro!-img_2853k.jpg  
The Big Wig is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2011, 08:19 PM   #4967
Tech Champion
 
RedBullFiXX's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Intergalactic Planetary
Posts: 6,540
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

I too can appreciate all the attention in the details.

For many of us the build is as much fun as it is to drive, perhaps more-so...

Some folks try to build a better mousetrap.
Some build the same trap, with no exception to detail.

It's all good.
__________________
--> 12th scale Information Source <--

"Men do not quit playing because they grow old; they grow old because they quit playing."
― Oliver Wendell Holmes Jr.
RedBullFiXX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2011, 08:32 PM   #4968
Tech Adept
 
The Big Wig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: A.K.A. Barry White
Posts: 150
Default

A problem with the chewing of the setscrew in your carbon axle is something we've all seen before. This is my F103 axle that has 2 seasons under it's belt.
First ground your setscrew perfectly flat and CA a 0.1mm steel plate on the shaft. Make sure the plate fits just right becouse if it's to small it can twist and it will be impossible to take it apart again.
Attached Thumbnails
Tamiya F104 Pro!-p1060433k.jpg   Tamiya F104 Pro!-p1060434k.jpg   Tamiya F104 Pro!-p1060436k.jpg  
The Big Wig is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2011, 08:50 PM   #4969
Tech Champion
 
RedBullFiXX's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Intergalactic Planetary
Posts: 6,540
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

A nice option is the Tamiya Clamping hub.
It also comes in black.
I find that the thicker ribs offer more contact area for the wheel, keeping it more in tact after a big hit.
Set screw is optional, and not really necessary.



http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=84196
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=54240
__________________
--> 12th scale Information Source <--

"Men do not quit playing because they grow old; they grow old because they quit playing."
― Oliver Wendell Holmes Jr.
RedBullFiXX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2011, 09:01 PM   #4970
Tech Adept
 
The Big Wig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: A.K.A. Barry White
Posts: 150
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
A nice option is the Tamiya Clamping hub.
It also comes in black.
I find that the thicker ribs offer more contact area for the wheel, keeping it more in tact after a big hit.
Set screw is optional, and not really necessary.



http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=84196
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=54240
Shure but U still have the diff side
The Big Wig is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2011, 09:08 PM   #4971
Tech Elite
 
squarehead's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Wheaton, Illinois
Posts: 4,210
Trader Rating: 75 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to squarehead Send a message via MSN to squarehead Send a message via Yahoo to squarehead Send a message via Skype™ to squarehead
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Big Wig View Post
I even changed the servo bearings to ceramics.
Polished the chassis (see the reflection of the drapes).
Sanded down the screws.
You don't have a girlfriend, do you?
__________________
Everything depends.
Nothing is always.
Everything is sometimes.
squarehead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2011, 09:34 PM   #4972
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Perth, West Australia
Posts: 439
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mattwoodcraft View Post
i would have to agree that the pics of the F1 on the previous page are very impressive

i twill be interesting when i start racing again it must be at least 3 years ago i decided to stop and have a break from electic racing
Good call on the black can. One thing i'll say is gear down to a really low ratio. Run something like a 65 spur and 20 pinion. The black can probably wont like it too much, but yeah it'll make it easier to drive.

Parts wise not a lot. I had never broken anything till the state titles. The car is tough as nails. I broke a carbon drive shaft at the states on practise day, not sure how, must be one too many barrel rolls :P Some spare spurs are about all you'll need. In any case... i have all the parts you could ever need for your car at the track so if you ever need something, my pit box is always open
LordAnubis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2011, 09:58 PM   #4973
Tech Adept
 
The Big Wig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: A.K.A. Barry White
Posts: 150
Default

Fancy the same car?

I'll give you a headstart with the partslist:

F104 M.A.D. Spl.:

Tamiya: (http://www.tamiya.com/)
42131 HL Cylinder For TRF Special Dampers (2pcs.)
42137 Competition O-rings for Oil Damper
42165 TRF Damper Pistons (Blank / 4pcs.)
50395 Racing Developed Front Upright Set (1 Pair)
50509 F-1 Front Spring Set
53101 Racing Developed 0.4 Steel Pinion Gear Set (20T, 21T)
53102 Racing Developed 0.4 Steel Pinion Gear Set (22T, 23T)
53103 Racing Developed 0.4 Steel Pinion Gear Set (24T, 25T)
53117 Racing Developed 0.4 Steel Pinion Gear Set (26T, 27T)
53120 Racing Developed F-1 Aluminium Front Body Mount
53259 Formula 3.5mm Offset Upright
53262 0.4 Steel Pinion Gears (28T, 29T)
53918 Low Friction TRF Damper V-Parts
54160 F104 Titanium Coated King Pin (2pcs.)
54161 F104 Low Friction Suspension Ball Set
54165 F104 Soft T-Bar
54166 F104 Aluminium Motor Mount (Left & Right)
54202 F104 Aluminium Upper Suspention Mount
54208 5x8mm Aluminium Hex Head Ball Connctor (Fluorine Coated, 5pcs.)
54209 5x5mm Aluminium Hex Head Ball Connctor (Fluorine Coated, 5pcs.)
54222 High Traction T-Bar
54278 F104 Separated Upper Deck
54281 F104 Heavyweight Pivot Post
84013 5mm Aluminium Short Ball Nut Black (10pcs.)
84120 RC Body Set Ferrari F60 – Lightweight
84170 F104 Pro Black Special with Light Weight Body
3455898 Antenna Post
14005133 F104 Lower Deck
14025071 F104 Upper Deck

Abec 35: (http://www.abec35.com/)
3.0mm C 3.0mm Ceramic Diff Balls (10pcs)
MR106(2.5)-C3 6x10x2.5mm General Ceramic Hybrid Ball Bearings, ABEC3(x2)
MR115-XCO 5x11x4mm Type X Ceramic Hybrid Ball Bearings, XCO

Associated: (http://www.teamassociated.com)
#8546 M2x6 BHCS Blue Aluminium (4)
#8547 M2x6 FHCS Blue Aluminium (4)

Atomic: (http://www.rcatomic.com/)
TS-BSM2612M M2.6x12 Titanium Button Head Hex Socket – Machine (10Pcs)

Blade: (http://www.blade-racing.com/)
BL616 Friction Pad

Boca Bearings: (www.bocabearings.com)
#SW85C-OS7AF2 5x8x2.5mm Orange Seal Ceramic Bearing (4 pack)
#SW106C-OS7AF2 6x10x3mm Orange Seal Ceramic Bearing (4 pack)
#SW128C-OS7AF2 8x12x3.5mm Orange Seal Ceramic Bearing (4 pack)

HPI: (http://hpiracing.com/)
102832 Helmet Parts Set

Kawada: (http://www.kawadamodel.co.jp/)
B61M Thin-Shaped Heat Sink M
FO27 Delrin Suspension Ball For F103

Keyence: (http://hobby.keyence.co.jp)
OP-84432 Chevalier Dash

Ko Propo: (http://www.kopropo.com)
21002 KR-409S Micro Reciever
30048 PDS-951 ICS Servo
40047 VFS-1 Pro C3
45515 Ultimate Shotki Diode Single

Kose: (http://kose-rc.com/)
K-1604 3mm Shim Set
K-1633 1050 to 850 Bearing Holder
K-1636 6mm Shim Set

MRT: (www.team-mrt.com)
PTX Transponder

RC Square: (http://rc-square.com/)
SFC-20G Tamiya F103 Height Adjustable Guides
SGE-14SBK Aluminium 4mm Flanged Serrated Nut
SGE-905BK 0.5mm Spacer Black (8Pcs)
SGE-910BK 1.0mm Spacer Black (8Pcs)
SGE-915BK 1.5mm Spacer Black (8Pcs)
SGE-920BK 2.0mm Spacer Black (8Pcs)
SGE-925BK 2.5mm Spacer Black (8Pcs)
SGE-930BK 3.0mm Spacer Black (8Pcs)
STR-335 3x35mm Hex Countersunk Screw
STR-430 4x30mm Hex Countersunk Screw
FAW-306B 3x6 Hex Flanged Buttonhead Screw (4 Pcs)

Squat: (http://www.squat.co.jp/)
S786 Tamiya F103 Roll limiter

Take Off: (http://takeoff.main.jp/)
TO-365BK High Traction Tape
TS-252 Titanium M3 Locknut Thin Type (H3.3)
TS-208BK M4 Locknut Thin Type
TS-205BK M2 Locknut Aluminium
TS-201BK M3 Locknut Aluminium (H4)
TS-207BK M3 Nut
TS-332BK M3x8mm Hex Socket CSK Screw
TS-333BK M3x10mm Hex Socket CSK Screw
TS-381BK M3x6mm Hex Socket Button Head Screw
TS-382BK M3x8mm Hex Socket Button Head Screw
TS-383BK M3x10mm Hex Socket Button Head Screw
TS-384BK M3x12mm Hex Socket Button Head Screw
TS-111BK M3 Washer Aluminium 0.5mm
TS-1151 M3x6mm Magnesium Button Head Screw
TS-1152 M3x8mm Magnesium Button Head Screw
TS-1153 M3x10mm Magnesium Button Head Screw

Team Orion: (www.team-orion.com)
ORI14155 TS Rocket Pack LiPo 3500 IBS

Titanium Racing: (http://www.titaniumracing.com)
6 mm M3 Titanium Countersunk Screw
8 mm M3 Titanium Countersunk Screw
10 mm M3 Titanium Countersunk Screw
12 mm M3 Titanium Countersunk Screw
20mm M3 Titanium Countersunk Screw

TOP Racing: (http://www.top-racing.jp)
TI-CM0206 Titanium Coutersunk Machine Screws M2x6mm(10Pcs)

TQ Racing: (http://www.tqracing.com/)
#2200 Triple Black 22 Gauge Servo Extention
#13313 13 Gauge Wire Black

TRG: (http://www.rc-trg.com/)
TRG-5029 Rear Ride Height Blocks
TRG-5088 Servo Saver Horn Short
The Big Wig is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2011, 05:32 AM   #4974
Tech Champion
 
abailey21's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: SoCal
Posts: 5,155
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
A nice option is the Tamiya Clamping hub.
It also comes in black.
I find that the thicker ribs offer more contact area for the wheel, keeping it more in tact after a big hit.

I've broken 2 clamping hubs in 2 races, not sure if the 2 I bought were bad but I snapped both in half within 2 runs.
__________________
K.C.C.O.
abailey21 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2011, 06:17 AM   #4975
Tech Elite
 
mattwoodcraft's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: perth / australia
Posts: 2,747
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by LordAnubis View Post
Good call on the black can. One thing i'll say is gear down to a really low ratio. Run something like a 65 spur and 20 pinion. The black can probably wont like it too much, but yeah it'll make it easier to drive.

Parts wise not a lot. I had never broken anything till the state titles. The car is tough as nails. I broke a carbon drive shaft at the states on practise day, not sure how, must be one too many barrel rolls :P Some spare spurs are about all you'll need. In any case... i have all the parts you could ever need for your car at the track so if you ever need something, my pit box is always open
thanks for the heads i hope to be down very soon
what packs you running in your f1 this is all that i need to get now or what are you other guys using ?
mattwoodcraft is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2011, 07:50 AM   #4976
Tech Champion
 
RedBullFiXX's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Intergalactic Planetary
Posts: 6,540
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by abailey21 View Post
I've broken 2 clamping hubs in 2 races, not sure if the 2 I bought were bad but I snapped both in half within 2 runs.
Wow !
Got any pics
I'd like to see that.

Admittedly, I don't run F1 much these days, but I've had good luck with them on the 104 I had, and on my 103AE.
__________________
--> 12th scale Information Source <--

"Men do not quit playing because they grow old; they grow old because they quit playing."
― Oliver Wendell Holmes Jr.
RedBullFiXX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2011, 12:56 PM   #4977
Tech Master
 
HeliYogi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: WA
Posts: 1,181
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default Thanks Barry!

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Big Wig View Post
Fancy the same car?...
Bro I got your post copy pasted on the F1 data file

Thanks!
Marcos
__________________
More F-1 RC action? RCTECH Formula-1-RC-Northwest & FB @WhatBrakes
HeliYogi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2011, 02:00 PM   #4978
Tech Adept
 
The Big Wig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: A.K.A. Barry White
Posts: 150
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by HeliYogi View Post
Bro I got your post copy pasted on the F1 data file

Thanks!
Marcos
I allready regret this. Took my months of research.

But hey developement never stops and I've allready some new ideas!
The Big Wig is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2011, 02:42 PM   #4979
Tech Adept
 
The Big Wig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: A.K.A. Barry White
Posts: 150
Default

New updated setting sheet.
The Big Wig is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2011, 03:41 PM   #4980
Tech Master
 
HeliYogi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: WA
Posts: 1,181
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Big Wig View Post
I allready regret this. Took my months of research.
But hey developement never stops and I've allready some new ideas!
Yes, written in true McLaren spirit!

My .02 (it works for me ) since we are sharing our nicest garments

When starting to run a F103, 104 or most T plate, 2wd 1/10 chassis:

1. If the steering is of (and the front is as it should) then... Check the T Plate (adjust your TX exp, this cars do well with less than 80% steering)

2. Bad cornering, even with those expensive nice soft rear Rides or Pit's rubbers or foams... Check the T Plate (then the diff)

A) Tight Diff is easier than a loose one (usually you adjust it from less to more traction). Try to find the Diff G spot (the “Good spot” you Prev!) get it worm first - do 5 or 6 laps. A cold Diff? No can do! (This sort of reminds me of something... oh yea.)

3. Difficult to hold it straight? Even worst when you power it full... Check the T Plate.

4. T Plate like's it loose, easily swings from left to right - just like dancing Slasa or Merenge! Do swing test with your body on (the car not yours Jees!). Too loose? You lose! Compensate by adding tension on the plate - but just a tad, remember loose left, right, left, right... Mambo!

5. Beginner? Try front: .5 toe out / 3 camber . Ride higth between 4 - 5mm level (front, middle and rear), for carpet track as low as you can get away with. When in doubt it's better to be a little lower on the rear. If the rear is higher prepare to salsa (on the wall!)

The rest you will find out as you become an advance racer like Mr. Wig
Go ahead by the parts, do the set up and prepare to be hooked forever

Cheers!
Marcos
__________________
More F-1 RC action? RCTECH Formula-1-RC-Northwest & FB @WhatBrakes
HeliYogi is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Tekin RS ESC sensored Jeff Cuffs Electric On-Road 23359 10-02-2016 06:57 AM
Tamiya F104, HPI F10 and POPULARITY bxpitbull Electric On-Road 28 07-22-2011 08:13 AM
HPI F10 vs Tamiya F104 Pro daygoVR6 Electric On-Road 38 12-03-2010 03:19 PM
FS: Tamiya F103RM and F104 Pro! SerpentCT4S R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 42 09-12-2009 06:59 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 01:39 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0