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Old 04-07-2011, 11:33 AM   #4876
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Hi guys,

first of all, I'll thank everyone that give me some advice and help (special thanks to LordAnubis for this very explicit description of the F1's style).

No worries about my radio, it's a Futaba 3PM with frequencies synthethizer (but it's not a 2.4 GHz, I can choose between some frequencies included between 40.1xx and 40.9xx MHz) and I've a Futaba BLS551, can I put this servo for the steering of my F104? Or is it too powerful and fast (even if I do the right setting)?

Well, I read your reaplies, and I've some questions yet:

-You all are unanimous with regard to the motor, do not fall below 17.5T, and I compare some motor (LRP X12-Speed Passion V3-...) and the 17.5T of this are more or less 180W powerful and about 2200 kV, wich means 15000 T/min when you are using a 2S LiPo baterry (if I'm right).

I saw at my local retailer the LRP Eraser 10.5T (180W and 4100 kV ==> 30000 T/min).

So my question is: can I put this motor (that have two advantages: less expensive, enough power but not too much and it can give you much more final speed) in my F104 or the excess of speed will deriorate the behaviour of the car and make it undrivable?

I'm asking this question because I saw too the LRP Formula 1 brushed motor, that's annouced for 31000 T/min and 163W. And the Eraser is the best way to conciliate power of a 17.5T competition brushless motor and the final speed of this brushed motor; so what are you thinking about? All your review is welkommed. (Remember that I run on asphalt and rubber tyres, sometimes foam (for races) and zero timing on my esc, my track have a big long straight line (?))

You tell me that you're using NiMh battery to have much weight, can the heavyweight pivot post (#54281) correct the lightness of the battery?

Other question: can a LiPo hardcase like this: h=25.6mm, l=46.5mm, L=137.5mm, is fittable in the chassis?


Thanks for all your answers, I know I can seem a bit undecided, but it's to have a good car as soon as I run with)

Regards,
G-rem
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Old 04-07-2011, 11:51 AM   #4877
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Basically you can put any motor in your F1 car, but if you cant get traction then you will simply be doing doughnuts and soon loose interest.

If you want to go the 10.5 route then make sure you have plenty of throttle curve and a steady gentle thumb/finger for your power input.
You would have much more fun with a lower powered motor like a 17.5 or a 21.5 and you would be able to use the power available.

Another idea is to advance the timing on a brushless motor to make it rev more, while at the same time reduce the amount of torque.

Driving an F1 or pan car is a bit like trying to push it along with a broom stick, where as a 4wd Touring car is closer to pulling it along with a bit of string.
What would be the easiest to do?
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Old 04-07-2011, 12:22 PM   #4878
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Don't be fooled by numbers on the back of a box. Eraser motors are LRP's low-spec motors. They are not asa efficient as the newer generation motors, that is why they have less power output. That loss of efficiency is trasferred as heat, so, the Erasers get hotter than the higher spec motors. They therefore can't be pushed as hard, and so that is why they are cheaper.
If you get a good quality 17.5, you can gear it as high as you like for speed, and you still won't get it as hot as a low-geared Eraser will go.
Also, if you get a Turbo esc, you can remove a lot of that rpm difference by cranking up the timing. You wouldn't be able to add much timing at all to an Eraser due to the aforementioned inefficiency.
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Old 04-07-2011, 12:35 PM   #4879
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Still Looking to See what Rear Axle Shims Every one uses. i want to make the Rear a Little more Wider and Need to know. Does Any one Use AE Shim's?
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Old 04-07-2011, 12:41 PM   #4880
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tcb22185 View Post
Still Looking to See what Rear Axle Shims Every one uses. i want to make the Rear a Little more Wider and Need to know. Does Any one Use AE Shim's?
Best way to get shims is to measure your axle thickness then look for the packs of after market shims of different thinknesses.
Tamiya also do shims of many sizes
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Old 04-07-2011, 01:20 PM   #4881
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Quote:
Don't be fooled by numbers on the back of a box. Eraser motors are LRP's low-spec motors. They are not asa efficient as the newer generation motors, that is why they have less power output. That loss of efficiency is trasferred as heat, so, the Erasers get hotter than the higher spec motors. They therefore can't be pushed as hard, and so that is why they are cheaper.
If you get a good quality 17.5, you can gear it as high as you like for speed, and you still won't get it as hot as a low-geared Eraser will go.

Thanks, and I agree with all what you say, I know that's low-spec motor, and my goal is not to have an expensive competition motor such as the LRP X12 or else, but have a good motor to run fast and not too powerful.
I already have a Nosram Dragon 9.5T (the same as the Eraser) put in my Kyosho Lazer ZX5SP and I have never had problem of overheating (sure on-road and off-road are a bit different what concern power and use of battery capacity and I've put a cooling fan), I had good speed and acceptable power (sure not enough), but here, this is just what I search, a good "little" motor, not too expensive, not too powerful to keep it on my hand and a good speed.

Already said, I have no timible esc, it's a Nosram Power Evil brushless (the same as the LRP AI Runner pro bls), so can forget this option.

Quote:
If you want to go the 10.5 route then make sure you have plenty of throttle curve and a steady gentle thumb/finger for your power input.
You would have much more fun with a lower powered motor like a 17.5 or a 21.5 and you would be able to use the power available.
As I said in my previously post, the LRP Eraser 10.5T is 180W powerful and 4100 kV, just the same as a competition motor as the LRP X12 17.5T concerning power but really more faster.
Your idea of gearing the 17.5T competition motor to have more speed is really good, but is there no risk of overheating? Is it not better to take another motor with the same power but with more kV?

All your comments are welcomed

Anyway, other review about it:
Quote:
No worries about my radio, it's a Futaba 3PM with frequencies synthethizer (but it's not a 2.4 GHz, I can choose between some frequencies included between 40.1xx and 40.9xx MHz) and I've a Futaba BLS551, can I put this servo for the steering of my F104? Or is it too powerful and fast (even if I do the right setting)?

Well, I read your reaplies, and I've some questions yet:

-You all are unanimous with regard to the motor, do not fall below 17.5T, and I compare some motor (LRP X12-Speed Passion V3-...) and the 17.5T of this are more or less 180W powerful and about 2200 kV, wich means 15000 T/min when you are using a 2S LiPo baterry (if I'm right).

I saw at my local retailer the LRP Eraser 10.5T (180W and 4100 kV ==> 30000 T/min).

So my question is: can I put this motor (that have two advantages: less expensive, enough power but not too much and it can give you much more final speed) in my F104 or the excess of speed will deriorate the behaviour of the car and make it undrivable?

I'm asking this question because I saw too the LRP Formula 1 brushed motor, that's annouced for 31000 T/min and 163W. And the Eraser is the best way to conciliate power of a 17.5T competition brushless motor and the final speed of this brushed motor; so what are you thinking about? All your review is welkommed. (Remember that I run on asphalt and rubber tyres, sometimes foam (for races) and zero timing on my esc, my track have a big long straight line (?))

You tell me that you're using NiMh battery to have much weight, can the heavyweight pivot post (#54281) correct the lightness of the battery?

Other question: can a LiPo hardcase like this: h=25.6mm, l=46.5mm, L=137.5mm, is fittable in the chassis?
Thanks,
G-rem
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Old 04-07-2011, 02:05 PM   #4882
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tcb22185 View Post
Still Looking to See what Rear Axle Shims Every one uses. i want to make the Rear a Little more Wider and Need to know. Does Any one Use AE Shim's?
http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p...407&p_catid=43
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Old 04-07-2011, 03:33 PM   #4883
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@G-rem,

If you are able to have a day off then you should go to intermodellbau in Dortmund, in germany. It takes place from april 13th untill april 17th.
There you can easily find a X12 motor for the price of an eraser and some other interesting R/C stuff for a very fair price.

You really should try to run at the belgian tamiyacup, we mostly use silvercan motors and they are as fast as the GT2 touring class who are using a 12T sensorless brushless motor.
If you bought the F104 from a belgian r/c shop the you can participate for free.
Definately worth a try.
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Old 04-08-2011, 06:05 PM   #4884
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Here is a pic of my 104. lmk what u think.
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Tamiya F104 Pro!-pic0006.jpg  
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Old 04-08-2011, 06:13 PM   #4885
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crazy question...

does anyone else have their damper tube (the one that has the springs on the damper disks) raise off the upper deck?

if so, how to you fix it so it stays put and not move????
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Old 04-08-2011, 07:27 PM   #4886
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crazy question...

does anyone else have their damper tube (the one that has the springs on the damper disks) raise off the upper deck?

if so, how to you fix it so it stays put and not move????
thats the way its supposed to be
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Old 04-08-2011, 07:54 PM   #4887
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thats the way its supposed to be
Check ur PM's any time soon? or change ur mind on your offer....
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Old 04-08-2011, 08:53 PM   #4888
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Originally Posted by tcb22185 View Post
Check ur PM's any time soon? or change ur mind on your offer....
will be getting with you this weekend, had a bunch of stuff going on this week, sorry for the delay
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Old 04-08-2011, 09:03 PM   #4889
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thats the way its supposed to be
really?!?!? i know the F103 is like that, I figured it has to mess with the rear suspension one way or antoher
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Old 04-08-2011, 09:25 PM   #4890
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Originally Posted by tcb22185 View Post
Here is a pic of my 104. lmk what u think.
Cool pic!
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