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Old 12-17-2010, 08:01 PM   #4036
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If you run SC I highly suggest a fan, not only does it keep ya cool you can also gear up without causing any damage to the motor. Positioning is key because some fans(cheap, too low a voltage) do not work when mounted on top laying flat. The magnets prevent the fan from spinning.
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Old 12-18-2010, 08:14 AM   #4037
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If you run SC I highly suggest a fan, not only does it keep ya cool you can also gear up without causing any damage to the motor. Positioning is key because some fans(cheap, too low a voltage) do not work when mounted on top laying flat. The magnets prevent the fan from spinning.
Thanks... by the way, I have another unrelated question.

Since I'm running rubber tires on asphalt (outdoor), I wanted to try using tire additive. But I do not a tires warmer at the moment. Will that be okie?

Trying to look around the forum but cannot get a right answer.

Thanks
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Old 12-18-2010, 08:24 AM   #4038
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Thanks... by the way, I have another unrelated question.

Since I'm running rubber tires on asphalt (outdoor), I wanted to try using tire additive. But I do not a tires warmer at the moment. Will that be okie?

Trying to look around the forum but cannot get a right answer.

Thanks
Tire earners help bake the additive in faster. Using the additive without earners is still worthwhile, you just need to find an additive that works well on the tires and track surface you are racing on. Good luck.
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Old 12-18-2010, 06:24 PM   #4039
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Guys.. For outdoor asphalt, rubber tires; What is the window of effective droop range for these cars (1mm-3mm)?
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Old 12-20-2010, 12:10 AM   #4040
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All wired up ready to go.. oh yeah!!

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Old 12-20-2010, 12:39 AM   #4041
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All wired up ready to go.. oh yeah!!

you got the most powerful engine......super nice and clean wiring.
but...........pls use T-plug
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Old 12-20-2010, 01:04 AM   #4042
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Default alternative diff. cap and left hub clamp

Hi,

if anyone can suggest me where to get similar diff. cap (64 titanium material) like this in singapore or HK online shop??

http://www.multiverse.jp/QTEQ/tamiya/f1/tf104tdc.html

and left hub clamp..

http://www.multiverse.jp/QTEQ/tamiya/f1/tclh/tclh.html

wanted to find something stronger than alloy material like what Tamiya using.

thanks

P.s. posted this in singapore forums, but posting here as well to get more help
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Old 12-20-2010, 01:06 AM   #4043
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you got the most powerful engine......super nice and clean wiring.
but...........pls use T-plug
Thanks...Trying to keep it as close to "T" spec as possible... (lets hope they don't melt...lol)
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Old 12-20-2010, 01:11 AM   #4044
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Thanks...Trying to keep it as close to "T" spec as possible... (lets hope they don't melt...lol)
What he was trying to say is you should change the battery connector to a DEANS connector or bullet connector because that Tamiya connector heats up significantly when you put any worthwhile current through it
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Old 12-20-2010, 01:20 AM   #4045
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Nice install 2-Bad!

Are you able to remove the battery for charging or will you just leave it in?

I am trying to figure out how to get my battery (same as yours) in and out keeping the wires out of the way of the body at the same time.....!

Last edited by mr lee; 12-20-2010 at 01:38 AM. Reason: wrong name used :)
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Old 12-20-2010, 01:29 AM   #4046
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Originally Posted by hansenhon View Post
Hi,

if anyone can suggest me where to get similar diff. cap (64 titanium material) like this in singapore or HK online shop??

http://www.multiverse.jp/QTEQ/tamiya/f1/tf104tdc.html

and left hub clamp..

http://www.multiverse.jp/QTEQ/tamiya/f1/tclh/tclh.html

wanted to find something stronger than alloy material like what Tamiya using.

thanks

P.s. posted this in singapore forums, but posting here as well to get more help
Did not see your post. Anyways, Qteq parts are from Japan so it's hard to find it on SG or HK online shops. You can try to email pro-shop futaba or RC champ, which are the 2 Japanese online shops which I know of that does international shipping. Oh wait, I think there is D-drive also.

In any case, why would you want to get these if you are going to run local TAC? Unless of course you just like it and want it.
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Old 12-20-2010, 01:33 AM   #4047
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What he was trying to say is you should change the battery connector to a DEANS connector or bullet connector because that Tamiya connector heats up significantly when you put any worthwhile current through it
Skitee I know that.. but as I said I'm trying to keep it as close to Tamiya Spec as possible. I'm hoping the 21.5t brushless will not melt them, but if it does then yeah of course I'll glue some deans in (next best to corally plugs).
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Old 12-20-2010, 01:38 AM   #4048
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Nice install Marco!

Are you able to remove the battery for charging or will you just leave it in?

I am trying to figure out how to get my battery (same as yours) in and out keeping the wires out of the way of the body at the same time.....!
I can still remove it quite easily. Just have to feed the T plug through the top deck when withdrawing the pack. But you're right, I don't plan to remove it (recharge in situ). You just need to buy a small extension for the battery balance connector...
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Old 12-20-2010, 01:45 AM   #4049
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Originally Posted by Arahawak View Post
Did not see your post. Anyways, Qteq parts are from Japan so it's hard to find it on SG or HK online shops. You can try to email pro-shop futaba or RC champ, which are the 2 Japanese online shops which I know of that does international shipping. Oh wait, I think there is D-drive also.

In any case, why would you want to get these if you are going to run local TAC? Unless of course you just like it and want it.
Thanks for the info man...

the thread on my f104 left hub and diff. cap was totalled (due to my careless when screwing the nuts) during final TAC yesterday

3rd parties upgrade (parts) are still legal for this year local TAC (as rule stated for F1 class), but cannot be sure for next year TAC...

But thanks again for the big help... hope to run with you one day, but for fun.. not race

cheers
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Old 12-20-2010, 03:06 AM   #4050
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hansenhon View Post
Thanks for the info man...

the thread on my f104 left hub and diff. cap was totalled (due to my careless when screwing the nuts) during final TAC yesterday

3rd parties upgrade (parts) are still legal for this year local TAC (as rule stated for F1 class), but cannot be sure for next year TAC...

But thanks again for the big help... hope to run with you one day, but for fun.. not race

cheers
Use the plastic wheel nuts, they will keep you from stripping the rear axle threads.
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