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Old 10-19-2010, 02:00 AM   #3496
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Thanks for the feedback re the diff grease!
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Old 10-19-2010, 02:13 AM   #3497
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Sport tuned is 28T. 17.5 is deffinately way faster but you have to gear it higher to get the speed as the 17.5T has loads more torque. We will run the sport tuned in our local F1 TCS series for the next season....should be interesting as this is the first time in a while we will be running the F1 class, well also a first for me too
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A non boosted 17.5 at the same gearing would be slower than a sport tuned but when boosted the 17.5 would be quicker.
Thanks for the response, i guess now its time to try it for myself. When you say gear higher.. what is the suggested FDR to start with for a boosted 17.5?
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Old 10-19-2010, 04:08 AM   #3498
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Thanks for the response, i guess now its time to try it for myself. When you say gear higher.. what is the suggested FDR to start with for a boosted 17.5?
Sorry can't really comment on an FDR here as I don't have one or have tested one yet but judging from when I changed to BL in touring you would need to run the smaller 93T spur with a bigger pinion than the kit 25T.....guessing around 29, 30 or higher!
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Old 10-19-2010, 04:09 AM   #3499
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Thanks for the response, i guess now its time to try it for myself. When you say gear higher.. what is the suggested FDR to start with for a boosted 17.5?
Depends enormously on your track layout and grip. I've run anywhere from a 20T pinion to a 34T pinion with the 93T spur.
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Old 10-19-2010, 04:38 AM   #3500
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Drop it right in, use the 2 screws to hold the pack down, and put all the electronics in the center.
Could you by chance elaborate lol

Right now I'm looking at mounting the battery "sideways" right behind the posts and taping the LiPo in. I looked at it from what I learned from my HPI about weight in the front of the car and how that car desperately needed it.
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Old 10-20-2010, 03:25 AM   #3501
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Anyone ever test the difference between using the side pontoons or leaving the body as per the original mould?

I know it does not look so nice if you leave them off but are there noticable handling differences?
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Old 10-20-2010, 10:04 AM   #3502
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Could you by chance elaborate lol

Right now I'm looking at mounting the battery "sideways" right behind the posts and taping the LiPo in. I looked at it from what I learned from my HPI about weight in the front of the car and how that car desperately needed it.
Step 12 details the 2 screws (type "O") that go into the top deck to "help hold the battery in place after assembly". Thread these in from the top. You can just run the screws down until they touch the battery. I cut off the threaded end of a ball cup and threaded that onto each screw so that it would have more surface area touching the battery, and so it wouldn't dig into the battery.

Also if you put servo tape on the bottom of the battery and use your fingers to wear the "stick" off of it, it will also give more grip to keep the battery in place.
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Old 10-20-2010, 10:08 AM   #3503
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Step 12 details the 2 screws (type "O") that go into the top deck to "help hold the battery in place after assembly". Thread these in from the top. You can just run the screws down until they touch the battery. I cut off the threaded end of a ball cup and threaded that onto each screw so that it would have more surface area touching the battery, and so it wouldn't dig into the battery.

Also if you put servo tape on the bottom of the battery and use your fingers to wear the "stick" off of it, it will also give more grip to keep the battery in place.
Fantastic rob, thanks!
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Old 10-21-2010, 12:10 AM   #3504
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Originally Posted by mr lee View Post
Anyone ever test the difference between using the side pontoons or leaving the body as per the original mould?

I know it does not look so nice if you leave them off but are there noticable handling differences?
The same day I ran my car I drove someone elses car without the sidepods mounted and couldn't really see any major difference, honestly I think running different wings would make more of a difference than not mounting the sidepods.
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Old 10-21-2010, 01:31 AM   #3505
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The same day I ran my car I drove someone elses car without the sidepods mounted and couldn't really see any major difference, honestly I think running different wings would make more of a difference than not mounting the sidepods.
Thanks dude!

Going to give it a miss then as I do not have time for detail.....it will only get banged up anyway and I am sure the body will have a little more strength if left as is!
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Old 10-21-2010, 02:28 AM   #3506
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The rear wing is where you're going to see most of the car's downforce. I've been told that the F60 rear wing works the best.
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Old 10-21-2010, 03:01 AM   #3507
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The rear wing is where you're going to see most of the car's downforce. I've been told that the F60 rear wing works the best.
Is the F60 wing available seperately or only with the F60 body set? Couldn't find anything on Tamiya's site except the 104 pro wing!
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Old 10-21-2010, 03:06 AM   #3508
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if not having to follow the TCS rules, then you might consider the 3racing Rear wing for the 104. Very durable, and I think the same if not a little better then the F60 wing.
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Old 10-21-2010, 03:12 AM   #3509
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Has to be according to Tamiya cup rules.
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Old 10-21-2010, 06:14 AM   #3510
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for the TCS rules, they mandated the use of the same wings on the same body (i.e. Ferrari F60 body = Ferrari F60 front and rear wings.)

but in the Tamiya Asia Cup series, even though the same rule was implied, it was still a grey area. while some of us ran the generic F-104 bodyshell with matching wings, we noted a few racers using the Ferrari F60 body but with the F-104 rear wing.

during the 2010 Tamiya Asia Cup Finals, since the surface was indoor carpet, the ideal body setup used by the majority in the A-Final was the F-104 body and wing combo. a few used the Ferrari F60 body and wing. but one of the F60 runners used an F-104 rear wing.
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