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Old 10-01-2010, 03:45 PM   #3376
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Here are a couple of pics of my newly built F104 Pro. First race is sunday and I cant wait to try it out Hop ups are on the way





Both cars ready for the weekend



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Old 10-01-2010, 05:30 PM   #3377
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I was told that my DS1313 servo is too fast for the F1. Is this true? Ppl at track telling me to get the cheapest servo out there. What are your thoughts? My car is spinning out at a high traction indoor asphalt track. I switched to a soft tbar and am running the hard rubbers. What shock oil spring and weight are you using?
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Old 10-01-2010, 05:59 PM   #3378
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I was told that my DS1313 servo is too fast for the F1. Is this true? Ppl at track telling me to get the cheapest servo out there. What are your thoughts? My car is spinning out at a high traction indoor asphalt track. I switched to a soft tbar and am running the hard rubbers. What shock oil spring and weight are you using?
I run a Futaba 9550 in my F10, was planning on running a JR 8800 in my 104 so I have to say i doubt it if you know how to handle a pan car
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Old 10-01-2010, 06:23 PM   #3379
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Marcus I think the word "link" is a generic term that refers to a solid axle, pod type car that doesn't use a flex plate for the rear suspension. CRC/Speedmerchant made the term popular with their 12th scale. They have a center pivot (ball), 2 side "links" with damper tubes. We now see the tubes being replaced by a shaft through shock body shock.

My question to you is, when are you going to make a link mini-z F1?
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Old 10-01-2010, 06:26 PM   #3380
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MikeR

You have a PM
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Old 10-01-2010, 06:29 PM   #3381
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Do you run at Norcal?
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Old 10-01-2010, 06:29 PM   #3382
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I was told that my DS1313 servo is too fast for the F1. Is this true? Ppl at track telling me to get the cheapest servo out there. What are your thoughts? My car is spinning out at a high traction indoor asphalt track. I switched to a soft tbar and am running the hard rubbers. What shock oil spring and weight are you using?
If you are spinning out it could be due to the tires you chose.
Check with the locals to see what tires they use, and tune from there.

I find that "cheap servos" don't center as well as the higher end servos do.
But you don't have to spend a lot of money to get something that works well enough.
Futabas' 9602 & 9650 are decent servos that will get the job done
Also your radio may have a setting to slow down the servo you have, I know my 4PK has this function, and I sometimes use that option, but normally just use exponential to slow the steering around the neutral/center.
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Old 10-01-2010, 06:52 PM   #3383
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Marcus I think the word "link" is a generic term that refers to a solid axle, pod type car that doesn't use a flex plate for the rear suspension. CRC/Speedmerchant made the term popular with their 12th scale. They have a center pivot (ball), 2 side "links" with damper tubes. We now see the tubes being replaced by a shaft through shock body shock.

My question to you is, when are you going to make a link mini-z F1?
LOL!! im am trying but the space is so limited as you already know! but i have made some very interesting rear ends that my team drivers will have at the worlds in a few weeks!
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Old 10-01-2010, 09:57 PM   #3384
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gsxr0311

Do you run at Norcal?
yes.
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Old 10-01-2010, 10:15 PM   #3385
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i beg to differ, if the link has the same pivot point as the swivel it does nothing, its impossible, the 109 has a link similar to a real car. as the pod pivots the link acts like a jack and wants to lift the chassis up which creates more traction. if you have been around drag cars at all its similar to a four link setup ( i have had a mid 8 second backhalved FD RX7 a few years ago). the links are supposed to be used to change the IC (instant center) which alters weight transfer. i know this is RC but the same principles should apply. A true link system will be able to alter the IC and weight transfer. believe it or not the 109 setup is closer to a link than the Exotec. just because it is used on the 12R5 does not mean that it is correct (although it may work better!!) i know that on my 109 lengthening the links creates more traction and also raising the mounting point on the chassis does too. just my .02 dont take it personal! if you have a CAD system draw it up and you will see what i mean. if the back of your links are at the same pivot point as the pod how can they do anything except keep the pod square, and this may be how it was designed to work. i think anything is better than friction plates. here is a damping system that i designed for the mini Z f1:
http://www.mantisworx.com/wp-content...5/DSC_0616.jpg

and here is a 4 link sketch:
http://www.dragstuff.com/forum/downl...75d4&mode=view
I have no issue with what you say about the 109, since it is true lengthening the rear link creates more traction.

Perhaps you can enlighten us then, why every manufacturer switched over to a longer side link on their 1/12 car once the 12R5 came out? If it does not matter, why did CRC change their chassis and begin molding a longer side link? Why has just about every other manufacturer done the same? CRC had the same length link for about 10 years, and suddenly they all went to the longer link? All about the time the lighter lipo pack came into use, and the cars are getting faster and faster (need more grip).

Odd that everyone would decide on the same course of action about the same time.
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Last edited by robk; 10-01-2010 at 10:27 PM.
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Old 10-02-2010, 12:46 AM   #3386
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I have no issue with what you say about the 109, since it is true lengthening the rear link creates more traction.

Perhaps you can enlighten us then, why every manufacturer switched over to a longer side link on their 1/12 car once the 12R5 came out? If it does not matter, why did CRC change their chassis and begin molding a longer side link? Why has just about every other manufacturer done the same? CRC had the same length link for about 10 years, and suddenly they all went to the longer link? All about the time the lighter lipo pack came into use, and the cars are getting faster and faster (need more grip).

Odd that everyone would decide on the same course of action about the same time.
I run the CRC Gen-X10 in 200mm 2s 17.5 format on an outdoor Bitumen surface.
Yes I did change to the longer links which I found made the car more stable at the rear. It doesn't give the rear more grip, it simply gives the rear a wider traction window thus making it easier to handle.
You can adjust how the links work by adding spacers to the front or to the rear pivot points, adding to the front pivot point makes the rear give more steering as it loads up, adding to the rear pivot point takes away steering as it loads up, (note how the rear pod axle line changes as it operates).
I run 1mm spacers at the rear pivot point so I can set the car up to be aggressive into a corner but then have the rear steering action to take away some steering as I exit corners thus reducing the hooking effect.
How links work on a full sized car I have no idea, but I do know how the links work on my GT CRC car.
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Old 10-02-2010, 04:10 AM   #3387
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Originally Posted by Barry White View Post
As we are speaking F104 here. Scale looks. Anything more than 180mm wide is a cheater car!
Thats how Tamiya is running TCS here in Japan,F104 only,no F104Ws.


To me any car that doesnt look like an F1 car past or present isnt F1. Basically sticking stupid big tires,touring car wings on a chassis makes it a cheater car.In my book if you can find a F1 car that actually was race you can race it in F1rc. So 6 wheeler P34=OK, Six wheeler Ferrari 312t,Six wheeler williams=NO.
The only cars that I think you can get away with running Pan car tires are the 70s cars.but thats only the rear as 70s cars had huge rear tires compared to the chassis, But not those stupid 5 spokes that came with the HPI super F1.
Just my way of thinking,not saying its right.
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Old 10-02-2010, 06:12 AM   #3388
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If I recall rightly, F1 is restricted to 13" wheels ?
Now that alone makes Pro10 wheels outlawed.

As for scale looks, well the era of the Wolf, P34 and Lotus was the wider width, so they can get away with F103/109/104w set ups, modern F1 is narrower so only the F104 & F10 should be used for modern F1.
So does this mean we have 2 F1 classes?
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Old 10-02-2010, 08:37 AM   #3389
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Default F104 pro set up

Does anyone have a few set ups to share for this. Running on ashault track, but in cooler conditions (10C / 50F) usung a black can and silver can motor.

Thanks
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Old 10-02-2010, 09:21 AM   #3390
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Originally Posted by NiMo View Post
If I recall rightly, F1 is restricted to 13" wheels ?
Now that alone makes Pro10 wheels outlawed.

As for scale looks, well the era of the Wolf, P34 and Lotus was the wider width, so they can get away with F103/109/104w set ups, modern F1 is narrower so only the F104 & F10 should be used for modern F1.
So does this mean we have 2 F1 classes?
You are correct in saying that basically there are two types of F1. Some places here in Japan do seperate the sizes,basically the F104 and the F103 size cars. Nobody runs the F10 here People that run the F103 size cars are faster and more serious,the F104 guys are either beginners or people that want to run the current bodies and have the challange of trying to make up for the narrow width. The two are mixed during races but the feeling of the two groups is different.Sometimes it even get to the point where there are three different ares of F1 in the same race,its all fun and everybody enjoy themselves in one way or another.
It just comes back to if your car looks like an F1 car or not. A F104W with the Protoform MP4 body, running 3racing wings using 70mm rear tires doesnt look like an F1 car.
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