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Old 07-30-2010, 06:00 PM   #3076
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I'm running 80mm rollout at a medium flowing track.....I run a Tekin RS with 21.5. Motor does come off quite cold but has good punch. I'm told I could run a slightly higher rollout, but happy with 80.
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Old 07-30-2010, 06:41 PM   #3077
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HPI tires will deform when mounted on Tamiya rims, Tamiya rims are larger in diameter...

In order to use HPI rubber properly on a 104 you need RIDE wheels...
Ok, but are the HPI any good or better than tamiya? or any aftermarket tires suggestions?
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Old 07-30-2010, 06:44 PM   #3078
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Originally Posted by tmkhaw View Post
Hi guys,

Quick question, what is your preferred default gear ratio when you go to any new track. Assuming that the track is moderate in size with 50 - 70m straights and normal technical sections.

The stock ratio for F104 Pro is 104 spur and 25 pinion which gives 4.16.

I notice most guys at my track are running around 5 and above. ie. 105/21 or higher ratios.

Give give me your ratios will suffice. Thanks a lot.
Are you running foam or rubber?
I am running 104/24 with foams, and I should probably go down a tooth on the pinion as the motor is coming off pretty hot
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Old 07-31-2010, 12:06 AM   #3079
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Old 07-31-2010, 05:44 AM   #3080
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If you think the F109 looks nothing like an F1 car, then you haven't seen Corally's F1 car.
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Originally Posted by Qatmix View Post
The f109 shell can look very tidy and scale check mine below



I have both, I think the F109 is great value and it is the faster car. I run brushless 13t in my f1's on a tight small circuit. (there are some vids on my blog)
That is a very nice example of an F109 shell, and from the angle it looks quite scale. But IMHO its too wide, the rear wing is too big and the nose cone is too long. It's just my opinion and I'll admit its the superior car in terms of raceability, but in terms of looks I just think its a bit odd. Kudos on the shell though.

Yeah, I've seen the Corally one too - I'll stick with my F102.
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Old 07-31-2010, 07:33 AM   #3081
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That is a very nice example of an F109 shell, and from the angle it looks quite scale. But IMHO its too wide, the rear wing is too big and the nose cone is too long. It's just my opinion and I'll admit its the superior car in terms of raceability, but in terms of looks I just think its a bit odd. Kudos on the shell though.

Yeah, I've seen the Corally one too - I'll stick with my F102.
Andysan,

I'm trying to get my F102 back to life (got it on atradeand I know this is an f104 ) anyways, I think all I needis the rear diff, my ??? is will the f104 or 103 diff work? tnx.
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Old 07-31-2010, 07:41 AM   #3082
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Andysan,

I'm trying to get my F102 back to life (got it on atradeand I know this is an f104 ) anyways, I think all I needis the rear diff, my ??? is will the f104 or 103 diff work? tnx.
The 102 and 103 diffs are identical, except for the outer diff hub. When you buy the spare gearset for the 103, they give you the part for the 102 as well
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Old 07-31-2010, 08:15 AM   #3083
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The 102 and 103 diffs are identical, except for the outer diff hub. When you buy the spare gearset for the 103, they give you the part for the 102 as well
As shadow before me has said, the spur gear, thrust assembly, diff plates and diff balls are the same. The outer hub is different however shadow is correct - both hub types are supplied in a pack. The rear axle is different, as is the motor mount but I believe the back part of the back box at least is the same.

I have all the part numbers I think - get in touch if you want any.
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Old 07-31-2010, 01:02 PM   #3084
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Originally Posted by BP SHADOW View Post
Are you running foam or rubber?
I am running 104/24 with foams, and I should probably go down a tooth on the pinion as the motor is coming off pretty hot
I am running rubber tires for now and foams on race day. Just got myself a 21T and will be trying with 104/21, 105/21 and 97/21. I'll most likely stick with 104/21.

Thanks.
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Old 08-02-2010, 04:07 AM   #3085
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Ive been using the 93T .04 spur with either a 23t or a 25t pinion depending on the night really... (mind you we race with either a tamiya sport tuned motor OR a 17.5t brushless)


Drive ratios of:
93t/23t - 4.04
93t/25t - 3.72

Car comes off WARM - with me pushing it consistanly for the 5min qualifiers/races

Track i race on is asphalt with medium flow with a good 40metre odd straight and some real nice tight corners/chicanes... find it works great with the RIDE medium rubber tyres i run front/rear with the soft t bar tamiya option.
Plenty of veteran racers at this place with plenty of F103GT/RM racecars... not to mention ample amounts of experience over me; being the only 104 driver there im doing quite well!.... 6th place out of 24 for this season (my first season in with the car too!)
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Old 08-02-2010, 04:10 AM   #3086
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Originally Posted by Andysan View Post
As shadow before me has said, the spur gear, thrust assembly, diff plates and diff balls are the same. The outer hub is different however shadow is correct - both hub types are supplied in a pack. The rear axle is different, as is the motor mount but I believe the back part of the back box at least is the same.

I have all the part numbers I think - get in touch if you want any.
KK, thanks guys. Yeah part #'s would be great.
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Old 08-03-2010, 08:27 AM   #3087
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For guys who want to run brick style lipos:

I bought this car knowing that it doesn't fully "fit". But after some modifications, it's quite easy.
The kit recommends that 2 posts are used between the upper and lower deck. These posts serve as pivot points for the radio trays. The issue with a high capacity brick pack is that the battery is too wide for the trays to go on the posts (because the hinges on the trays get in the way).

Solution:

1) Cut the hinges off the radio trays
2) Clip the trays to the posts (it'll still "clip", as the hinges are now a "C" shape instead of an "O" shape).
3) CA glue the bottom of the trays to the lower deck to keep the trays stable

Because we are not using the posts for swiveling radio trays, I recommend to install the other 2 remaining optional chassis posts. I secured all posts with lower screws only (on the pro model) for more chassis flex for tarmac use.

Lastly, the battery is oriented in such a way that the plugs are at the front of the chassis. I dremeled the top deck from the outside to allow room for bullet connects to plug into the chassis with *no interference from the top deck*. You need to ensure there is no interference as carbon is not an insulator.


Took the car for a maiden run a few days ago. Kit settings up front (save for 3.5mm offset knuckles), high traction t bar, red spring on 3 hole piston with 40wt oil, the car was dialed.

Traction was so good that it can be driven pretty carelessly and the car is still planted. I tightened the rear damper significantly more than what the kit recommends and the car has much less off power understeer then out of the box. I read type B foams are better for tarmac, but so far the type A's are surprisingly good. This most certainly is much more drivable than my old f103 (mind you, i had one many, many years back). Shocking how drivable this is on a medium traction outdoor surface

bump steer is an issue though, and short of going to a shorter servo horn, i cannot fix this as my servo is huge.
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Old 08-03-2010, 09:29 AM   #3088
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boro92 View Post
For guys who want to run brick style lipos:

I bought this car knowing that it doesn't fully "fit". But after some modifications, it's quite easy.
The kit recommends that 2 posts are used between the upper and lower deck. These posts serve as pivot points for the radio trays. The issue with a high capacity brick pack is that the battery is too wide for the trays to go on the posts (because the hinges on the trays get in the way).

Solution:

1) Cut the hinges off the radio trays
2) Clip the trays to the posts (it'll still "clip", as the hinges are now a "C" shape instead of an "O" shape).
3) CA glue the bottom of the trays to the lower deck to keep the trays stable

Because we are not using the posts for swiveling radio trays, I recommend to install the other 2 remaining optional chassis posts. I secured all posts with lower screws only (on the pro model) for more chassis flex for tarmac use.

Lastly, the battery is oriented in such a way that the plugs are at the front of the chassis. I dremeled the top deck from the outside to allow room for bullet connects to plug into the chassis with *no interference from the top deck*. You need to ensure there is no interference as carbon is not an insulator.


Took the car for a maiden run a few days ago. Kit settings up front (save for 3.5mm offset knuckles), high traction t bar, red spring on 3 hole piston with 40wt oil, the car was dialed.

Traction was so good that it can be driven pretty carelessly and the car is still planted. I tightened the rear damper significantly more than what the kit recommends and the car has much less off power understeer then out of the box. I read type B foams are better for tarmac, but so far the type A's are surprisingly good. This most certainly is much more drivable than my old f103 (mind you, i had one many, many years back). Shocking how drivable this is on a medium traction outdoor surface

bump steer is an issue though, and short of going to a shorter servo horn, i cannot fix this as my servo is huge.
Do you happen to have a picture of your set-up?
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Old 08-03-2010, 01:55 PM   #3089
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Exclamation Lotus 79

Found this on Tamiya America website. They say it is coming soon. The Lotus 79 has been judged as the most beautiful F1 car ever and was known as "Black Beauty", and every single-seat racing car since then owes it's overall design to this car; it was that influential!

This is for the Tamiya F104 the same as the Wolf WR1
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Tamiya F104 Pro!-tamiya-lotus-79.jpg  
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Old 08-03-2010, 07:46 PM   #3090
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What's size of bearing is 1280 or BG1?
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