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Old 07-06-2010, 02:30 PM   #2986
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Sorry to interrupt - Thought that a thread visitor may be interested in a F104 Pro I have for sale:
Tamiya F104 Pro + extras

Thanks.
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Old 07-06-2010, 03:42 PM   #2987
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Sorry to interrupt - Thought that a thread visitor may be interested in a F104 Pro I have for sale:
Tamiya F104 Pro + extras

Thanks.
That looks like a good deal Xev
It should go quick !
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Old 07-06-2010, 03:54 PM   #2988
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I understand why some drivers run a loose diff on loose tracks.
But in my experience it's always slower for laptime, because some of the corners do not need it.

With radio adjustments, car setup, and tires I have always found a way to go faster than my diff slipping competitors
Yeah it used to be I could do the same with the torque limiter on the ESC and the throttle curve on the radio...but most of the new ESCs these days no longer have a torque limiter.
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Old 07-06-2010, 10:16 PM   #2989
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Here's my 2 cents (only 1 cent actual value),
Rebuild the diff with new stuff, all of it, you can polish the rings if you really like it super sweet.

To adjust it to the loosest safe setting, which is still sketchy, put the car on the surface you will be running on and find one of the highest traction areas then punch it. If it slips, tighten it, when it doesn't slip you're done.

Better still, hold the wheels to the ground and punch it quickly, slowly tighten it a little at a time til it won't slip.
It will still feel smooth, never slip, and will last a very long time before needing a rebuild cuz it never slips which is what will wear the rings and diff balls instantly.
That's why I prefer the 103 type adjuster, I'll check it this way easily before each run.

That's how I roll

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Old 07-06-2010, 11:26 PM   #2990
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Old 07-06-2010, 11:59 PM   #2991
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Well for those of you wanting an externally adjustable diff for the F104 the 3Racing aftermarket diff is adjustable and doesn't build the thrust assembly inside the wheel like the F103. It has an adjustment ring on the bulkhead side of the diff. It is a pretty interesting design but I am finding it needs a little refinement. Rather than an adjustment ring designed to be turned by finger I would prefer a nut. Still it is an interesting design that can probably be really good with a little fiddling.
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Old 07-07-2010, 10:31 AM   #2992
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Hi, looking for some aftermarket rubber tires. Thinking about Ride, RP, and PitShimizu. Does anyone have a favorite pick of brand and compounds? Also, are all these tires designed to fit the kit rims? Thanks
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Old 07-07-2010, 11:50 AM   #2993
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do road course bodys (gt protos) fit the f104 like the l03? Im looking to get one and need some info help, thanks.
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Old 07-07-2010, 02:19 PM   #2994
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do road course bodys (gt protos) fit the f104 like the l03? Im looking to get one and need some info help, thanks.
You might be able to get away with the old Group C bodies from Tamiya (Mercedes-Benz C11, Nissan R91CP, Mazda 787B, Jaguar XJR-9 Castrol), as far as wheelbase is concern, but will probably be too wide for the F104 chassis. Converting it to an F104W will fix that problem though. Otherwise, just wait for the F104W to be released. I haven't tried this yet, but I own a Tamiya Group C car chassis and it's a little bit longer than an F103, with similar width.
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Old 07-08-2010, 06:46 AM   #2995
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Hi, looking for some aftermarket rubber tires. Thinking about Ride, RP, and PitShimizu. Does anyone have a favorite pick of brand and compounds? Also, are all these tires designed to fit the kit rims? Thanks
Check out : http://www.charleslightfoot.com/UF1/Rubber_review.html
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Old 07-08-2010, 06:34 PM   #2996
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thanks for this information charles.

with the drilling of the wheels, as a guide, what size should the hole be.

I've been having success with the tamiya rubber tires, and wonder if a air hole might help a little more, so was interested in what size the hole should be.
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Old 07-09-2010, 01:54 AM   #2997
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thanks for this information charles.

with the drilling of the wheels, as a guide, what size should the hole be.

I've been having success with the tamiya rubber tires, and wonder if a air hole might help a little more, so was interested in what size the hole should be.
I used a reamer to get it about another mm bigger.
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Old 07-09-2010, 03:35 AM   #2998
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Default Club racing rules?

Our local carpet track is considering starting a F1 class. We have a pretty good mix of good drivers and up and comers. Can I get some recommendations as to what we should start with for rules? I'm talking about tires, motors, speedos, batteries. What works at your track? What doesn't work?

Thanks
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Old 07-09-2010, 03:58 AM   #2999
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Our local carpet track is considering starting a F1 class. We have a pretty good mix of good drivers and up and comers. Can I get some recommendations as to what we should start with for rules? I'm talking about tires, motors, speedos, batteries. What works at your track? What doesn't work?

Thanks
We have been running a mixture of F104 and F102 for a while now and use the Tamiya Formula Tuned motors, any ESC/batteries (as more powerful (and hence larger) LiPos tend not to fit these chassis anyway). No restrictions regarding tyres as for the older Tamiya F1's it a case of buy what you can find as much as anything else, but you'll either want everyone on foams or rubbers IMHO.

This results in pretty close racing in my experience. You could just as easily run silver can motors to keep costs down further but we found that the variations of silver can motor gave some a random advantage. Of course you may wish to run faster motors (our track is quite tight) but be warned that these cars can be quite a handful and in my experience the racing is better when you havent got half of the field spinning out and unable to put the power down.

TL01 safety-car is optional.


Happy racing!
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Old 07-09-2010, 05:04 AM   #3000
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Originally Posted by Arahawak View Post
I used a reamer to get it about another mm bigger.
thanks for that....so it not a big change then. I'll give it a go and see what happens

cheers
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