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Old 06-07-2010, 09:01 PM   #2851
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I wonder if someone could help me find a dealer that might have part#13455372 (Wheel Stopper) in stock. I've tried Googling it but keep coming up short.

Tamiya is currently out of stock and I've stupidly sheared it while putting a wheel on.

Any help would be appreciated...
There's a 3racing brand "wheel stopper" over on rcmarket.com.hk

I couldn't find the Tamiya part anywhere either.
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Old 06-07-2010, 09:13 PM   #2852
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Thanks guys, I was hoping to find somewhere in the US, but I ordered from
rcmarket as suggested.
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Old 06-07-2010, 09:15 PM   #2853
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Thanks guys.
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Old 06-08-2010, 07:56 AM   #2854
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Originally Posted by xterc View Post
I wonder if someone could help me find a dealer that might have part#13455372 (Wheel Stopper) in stock. I've tried Googling it but keep coming up short.

Tamiya is currently out of stock and I've stupidly sheared it while putting a wheel on.

Any help would be appreciated...
That's the problem with the Tamiya parts. Seems like when you put an alu nut on the alu wheelstopper the parts destroy each other becouse of the same material softness (problem is as old as the first F103, so +15 years). Use a steel nut or put some grease on the treadz like mentioned in the F104 manual. Best off all is to use Qteq stoppers with a hollow titanium axle (of course not TCS legal). Those parts are lighter, stronger, better centered (and keep dust out better on diff side)and more expensive:



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Old 06-08-2010, 08:04 AM   #2855
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Slick setup.
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Old 06-08-2010, 10:40 AM   #2856
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Originally Posted by Greg Sharpe View Post
There's a 3racing brand "wheel stopper" over on rcmarket.com.hk

I couldn't find the Tamiya part anywhere either.
Or you could just order this part, it is a 103 part number, but identical to the 104, and it comes with the diff side for a 103


RC Diff Joint Bag: 58194/156
Item #9805524
MSRP: $9.50

and it is in stock at TA
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Old 06-08-2010, 11:11 AM   #2857
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Originally Posted by BP SHADOW View Post
Or you could just order this part, it is a 103 part number, but identical to the 104, and it comes with the diff side for a 103


RC Diff Joint Bag: 58194/156
Item #9805524
MSRP: $9.50

and it is in stock at TA
The 103 diff is quite different in how the wheel bolts on on the diff side from the 104.
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Old 06-08-2010, 11:22 AM   #2858
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Originally Posted by BP SHADOW View Post
Or you could just order this part, it is a 103 part number, but identical to the 104, and it comes with the diff side for a 103


RC Diff Joint Bag: 58194/156
Item #9805524
MSRP: $9.50

and it is in stock at TA
Do you know if these are in steel or aluminum?
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Old 06-08-2010, 11:25 AM   #2859
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The 103 diff is quite different in how the wheel bolts on on the diff side from the 104.
I think he broke the left side. 103 and 104 should be the same. You're right that the diff side are different.
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Old 06-08-2010, 12:43 PM   #2860
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Originally Posted by Barry White View Post
That's the problem with the Tamiya parts. Seems like when you put an alu nut on the alu wheelstopper the parts destroy each other becouse of the same material softness (problem is as old as the first F103, so +15 years).
It's not that they're Tamiya parts, it's a simple matter of similar materials. The same could happen with a stainless axle coupled with a stainless nut, etc. Either use dissimilar materials or lightly grease the threads (AW grease works well).
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Old 06-08-2010, 12:58 PM   #2861
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Fortunately I've never had a problem with this...bent axles yes but never a broken wheel hub in all the time I've been racing Tamiya F1 cars starting with the F102
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Old 06-08-2010, 10:11 PM   #2862
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It's not that they're Tamiya parts, it's a simple matter of similar materials. The same could happen with a stainless axle coupled with a stainless nut, etc. Either use dissimilar materials or lightly grease the threads (AW grease works well).
Im probably jinxing myself here, but I too have never had an issue with this.
and the part# i referenced is aluminum.
I just got 2 in to put a couple of 103"s back together
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Old 06-09-2010, 01:33 AM   #2863
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It's not that they're Tamiya parts, it's a simple matter of similar materials. The same could happen with a stainless axle coupled with a stainless nut, etc. Either use dissimilar materials or lightly grease the threads (AW grease works well).
My understanding is that it is with certain similar metals like aluminum with aluminum...since aluminum oxidizes that seizes the metals together...likewise with titanium...but steel on steel shouldn't. Or so I've been told.
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Old 06-09-2010, 01:39 AM   #2864
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Maybe a dumb question here but....Has anyone tried using one of the mini 2s lipos in the F104? I would think you could get some handling benefits by moving the battery forward or back. Some sort of brace would have to be made but I'm sure it could be done.
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Old 06-09-2010, 06:11 AM   #2865
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
My understanding is that it is with certain similar metals like aluminum with aluminum...since aluminum oxidizes that seizes the metals together...likewise with titanium...but steel on steel shouldn't. Or so I've been told.
Aluminum can indeed oxidize, but anodizing does a good job of preventing that.

The culprit here is an effect called galling.
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