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Old 06-17-2009, 08:47 AM   #181
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Originally Posted by Core Creations View Post
Toe out in the front always seems to settle my car on the straight.
Toe out is supposed to make the car turn in harder.
Toe in is supposed to stabilize it in the straits.
But you knew that already....
Fact is, any amount other than perfectly straight will add mechanical grip to the car. But toe in is more stable than toe out.
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Old 06-17-2009, 08:56 AM   #182
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What you are seeing is a lot of speculation combined with minimal running of the chassis. I think the 104 is going to be the chassis to have. I have a fleet of 103's that will go into retirement after the Nats, if I go to the Nats this year. Im a bit confused how a chassis can lack steering and be twitchy at the same time. I need to get with my hobby shop and get a 104 on order, being out of work at the moment isnt helping my ability to make big purchases either.
Most pan cars with NIMH batteries down the middle have this handling characteristic going from push to oversteer since more weight is to the front of the chassis. So it's that much harder to dial your setup.

Now that everyone is going LiPO and since LiPO's are lighter, having the LiPO down the middle isn't so much of an issue and will be a easier to dial in your setup.
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Old 06-17-2009, 09:54 AM   #183
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I know what "they" say and what I feel...lol

On my personal cars a little toe out definately gives more turn in off power, but also seems to make it easier to track straight and be slightly less over reactive...but thats me. I've never had good luck with toe in.
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Originally Posted by John St.Amant View Post
Toe out is supposed to make the car turn in harder.
Toe in is supposed to stabilize it in the straits.
But you knew that already....
Fact is, any amount other than perfectly straight will add mechanical grip to the car. But toe in is more stable than toe out.
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Old 06-18-2009, 05:06 AM   #184
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Hey Guys i just bought the latest tamiya F104 as a few of us bought coz there WAY COOL, but hopefully to get a small group here in Adelaide , South Australia a F1 team...

What is a decent engine to put in this car and what ESC could you recommend - we hope to run a 5000mah batter for max tiime run but what are your combo thoughts on a brushless engine?

Hey i am a Nitro boy so i am a bit dumb to electric class


cheers Guys!
Frankie
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Old 06-18-2009, 08:47 AM   #185
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Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak View Post
Hey Guys i just bought the latest tamiya F104 as a few of us bought coz there WAY COOL, but hopefully to get a small group here in Adelaide , South Australia a F1 team...

What is a decent engine to put in this car and what ESC could you recommend - we hope to run a 5000mah batter for max tiime run but what are your combo thoughts on a brushless engine?

Hey i am a Nitro boy so i am a bit dumb to electric class


cheers Guys!
Frankie
I think a perfect combo would be an LRP SPX and a 21.5.
I was impressed with my VTA and the same combo.
The F1 would even be more impressive!
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Old 06-18-2009, 08:55 AM   #186
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The pics look great. I really want one but it would probably sit in the box as nobody in the area runs/race F1. I may buy it anyway
What worked here, to get people into it, is one driver brought his F103 repeatedly to raceday, and left it sitting on his pit table. People kept picking it up and asking questions... now there are ~10 of us ready to go, and more sure to fall in line.
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Old 06-18-2009, 12:54 PM   #187
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mine is here......leeeeett the building begin
I can tell just by looking at the unassembled parts and the manual fitting brushless is going to be a challange. I may just put a black can in it.
the rear portion of the body has little clearance, I may have to go tekin (for size)with 14-16 guage wires for brushless. my tc spec will not fit but i may be able to fit a reg. sphere with no heatsink and 16g wires thick 12g wires will bind the rear pod
i will post pics when done.
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Old 06-18-2009, 01:15 PM   #188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fat500 View Post
mine is here......leeeeett the building begin
I can tell just by looking at the unassembled parts and the manual fitting brushless is going to be a challange. I may just put a black can in it.
the rear portion of the body has little clearance, I may have to go tekin (for size)with 14-16 guage wires for brushless. my tc spec will not fit but i may be able to fit a reg. sphere with no heatsink and 16g wires thick 12g wires will bind the rear pod
i will post pics when done.
I hear what youíre saying; I was thinking the same thingÖcan a brushless fit? Iím going to try to fit the brushless while the body is still unpainted so I can check the clearance out. While I think brushless would be dialed, Iím ok with running a QCII or III and silver can.
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Old 06-18-2009, 01:57 PM   #189
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Just wondering what type of spur gears fit the F104? (other than Tamiya ones) And is the standard spur normal 48dp or is it the 0.6 module type?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 06-18-2009, 03:21 PM   #190
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From the pics I'm guessing 0.4-module. Same as all the TRF on-road cars...

BTW: Here another great build thread going on over on Tamiyaclub.com:

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/inde...howtopic=51043
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Old 06-18-2009, 03:58 PM   #191
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What lipos fit? Will the Orion 3200/3400 work with the banana plugs on top?
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Old 06-19-2009, 03:07 PM   #192
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maybe having a smaller servo puts less weight over the front, making it twitchy and/or push
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Old 06-19-2009, 03:18 PM   #193
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Does it look like this chassis will accept wings for the F103? I have a set of high downforce 103 units I'd like to try out once I can get my hands on a kit.
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Old 06-19-2009, 06:12 PM   #194
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The wait begins..just ordered mine with alum motor mount form good old stella models should be here in tuesday or so..It's going to be hard to drive it though because i love my f103 anny so much.
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Old 06-20-2009, 06:03 PM   #195
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after tinkering.... I have to go the black can route better fit...can put the body lower and no binding in the rear pod I use yeah racing lipos and they all fit good
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