57LikesThe Speed Passion Thread
08-02-2011, 09:00 AM
#7606
Most motors when running with timing should not have mechanical timing added. If the MMM is a torque based motor like the LRP X12 then run standard timing on the motor. so with a +10 sensor board standard in the MMM i would turn it down to -10. For gearing, a torque based motor can take more gear try around 6.0 +/- .5. ESC timing, be easy at first, add a little a time until the motor temp rises or you have sufficient speed.
08-02-2011, 10:22 AM
#7607
08-02-2011, 11:37 AM
#7609
With the d3, running boosted, I, me, myself, have found that two lines of advanced timing past the zero mark is where MY motor ran the best and my temps were in check.
08-02-2011, 10:16 PM
#7611
yes plus side,
it is my opinion that some motors need mechanically timing along with boost to perform, some people say, leave the motor on zero and use only the esc to gain timing, I disagree with that.
if you have a older car that has a mechanically timing distributor or vacum disturbutor you will know, setting your static timing to zero makes your engine run like crap even thou as the rpms go up timing is being added.
I know you can't compare a engine to a motor, (wierd guy on tv voice...) or can they.. I think they can when it comes to timing and what it does.
it is my opinion that some motors need mechanically timing along with boost to perform, some people say, leave the motor on zero and use only the esc to gain timing, I disagree with that.
if you have a older car that has a mechanically timing distributor or vacum disturbutor you will know, setting your static timing to zero makes your engine run like crap even thou as the rpms go up timing is being added.
I know you can't compare a engine to a motor, (wierd guy on tv voice...) or can they.. I think they can when it comes to timing and what it does.
08-03-2011, 04:52 PM
#7613
Widen the dead band.
08-03-2011, 09:34 PM
#7616
its not a calibration issue.
some radios, like the DX3r has a window that you can open to watch the actual numbers given from the throttle pot and steering pot in the radio, they don't always return to full zero, thus, you get drag brake, opening up the dead band fixes this.
some radios, like the DX3r has a window that you can open to watch the actual numbers given from the throttle pot and steering pot in the radio, they don't always return to full zero, thus, you get drag brake, opening up the dead band fixes this.
08-04-2011, 04:27 AM
#7618
08-04-2011, 06:37 AM
#7619
its not a calibration issue.
some radios, like the DX3r has a window that you can open to watch the actual numbers given from the throttle pot and steering pot in the radio, they don't always return to full zero, thus, you get drag brake, opening up the dead band fixes this.
some radios, like the DX3r has a window that you can open to watch the actual numbers given from the throttle pot and steering pot in the radio, they don't always return to full zero, thus, you get drag brake, opening up the dead band fixes this.
Thanks Skypilot for all the help!
08-05-2011, 12:21 AM
#7620
need help for some stock v3 17.5 non boost setup with 20+ degree sensor.
what would be a good starting gear ratio with how many degree?
just got my mmm 13.5t can wait to run it at the local annual race this weekend
what would be a good starting gear ratio with how many degree?
just got my mmm 13.5t can wait to run it at the local annual race this weekend
