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Old 12-08-2009, 06:13 PM   #1291
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Where can I find the Chart with the FDRs they suggest for the new Competition 3.0 - 17.5R
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Old 12-08-2009, 07:19 PM   #1292
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Originally Posted by Joey4875 View Post
Where can I find the Chart with the FDRs they suggest for the new Competition 3.0 - 17.5R
It came with the motor. I will be at the track tomorrow around 4:30. I have one.
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Old 12-08-2009, 08:07 PM   #1293
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It came with the motor. I will be at the track tomorrow around 4:30. I have one.
When trash digging an found it see you tomorrow
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Old 12-08-2009, 08:38 PM   #1294
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When trash digging an found it see you tomorrow
2 cell LiPo config, sensored: 4.6 - 6.0.

I am loving this from Speed Passion. I am glad they got away from that FUGLY Atsushi Hara pink/purple color. Ugh...
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Old 12-09-2009, 08:53 AM   #1295
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
Thanks for the info. I'll give that a shot. I don't have a spool option on the vehicle I run, just both one way types (shaft drive car).

I am still curious though how the top driver is getting the best of both worlds, top speed that I am close to, plus insane infield torque. I believe he is running a Tekin RS setup with I think a duo based motor. It reminds me of a 19T sedan with foams from the way it punches, at least, from what I did back in the day.
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Originally Posted by charlie_b View Post
Cain, sometimes what we see isn't always what we think is going on.
Although yes some of the faster drivers might appear to have a lot of rip outta the corners, but really, its corner speed they have by taking the right line.
Even on the straight, sometimes when you approach the straight at full throttle way before your car is actually straight, you gain and extra 5-10 feet of speed because you have already built your momentum. The fast guys have already figured out the fast way around the track..i would follow them and see what lines and corners they are hitting and when they are rolling the throttle and hitting the brakes. You will be surprised by driving alone, can give the the appearance of "fast" when you are driving the right line.
This was proven to me 15 years ago at a local SCCA event when my boss at the time drove a BONE STOCK Hyundai Excel with stock 13" tires around the cones 2 seconds faster than my buddy's Mustang GT 5.0. This applies to RC. Line is everything.
Cain...charlie_b is right on....it is all about carrying corner speed thru out the entire LAP and for the rest of the 6 minutes.

If I remember correctly, your 4.25 final drive is NOT going to help you on "PUNCH" Department...lower the number of the final drive, faster top speed, but low on low-end power = torque. I am sure once you adjust your motor to 4.6 final drive range, your "PUNCH" will be back.

Also, try this....run about 1-2 minutes of your best laps and remember the lap time. Then pull the car, charge the batteries and cool down the motor...and try again, but this time...don't GUN your car like you used to. Try to go slow (not too slow but like 90% of your previous run in throttle except the straight line), but the key is....HUG all of the corners, slowly, but you must hug all the dots and go within 2" away from the dot or board (or even closer). Then check your lap time.....I don't know about you. A lot of the time, my lap time is .2-.5 faster then when I was all gun for the car.

It is very difficult to believe and do....I am still trying to tell myself to do that while I am racing (go slow and drive the fast line) but it is extremely difficult to do when you are racing 8 other cars within 6 minutes....but I believe, thats why the FAST GUY are fast even with the Novak GTB speedo...

Like other said, go open up your old DIFF of your TC4, remove the balls, clean it up, but don't remove the diff ring, you will need that, clean the rings up too...then cut 2-4 circle = to the diameter of the inner size of your diff...then place 2 layers on each side (or may be only 1) then build the diff like it used to...adjust the tightness by feel. Tight, but not loose....now, you have a "limited slip diff" for almost $0. I used that on my 13.5 and VTA car...
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Old 12-09-2009, 09:04 AM   #1296
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Originally Posted by dsyed1 View Post
Thanks for the insight here, really good info.... I would assume this setup should apply to the 17.5 motor also?

I am using 312a like you suggested but also wondering what all the other versions are for? is there a list that describes each software version ?
Yes...use the 312a software first, DRRS 8 or 9 (8 for tight track 9 for more open) AMTS to max 26.25, set your 17.5 endbell timing to stock setting (check your motor manuel or ask around). Then gear it around 4.6 final drive first and gear up base on speed, your feel and motor temperature. You don't want the motor to go above 160-170 range.

The only other software version that you can try is 323a designed for MOD motor, however, I and others used that for 13.5 cause 13.5 is plenty fast...and it works out great, better then 312a. But for 17.5, I would stick to 312a cause 323a might make the motor HOT with very minimum performance gain over 312a.

Alot of other version you saw on the computer are for the SP 1/8th speedo, the 1/18th micro speedo, the Rock Crawler speedo and someother speedo used by Hobbywing........you just need to know the 323a and 312a version for now. Speed Passion is working on more and better software for all these motor.

They should do one for USVTA 21.5....
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Old 12-09-2009, 10:16 AM   #1297
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solara View Post
For me...I always FORMAT my current model setting so everything are on DEFAULT on my radio. So I know all the setting are in default setting before I am binding the speedo. To asnwer your question...yes, throttle and brake both 100%.

I don't use temp cutoff, never did, never need that...I can't answer that question.

I ran 3.5T before...gear @ 10 final drive and DRRS set at 6~7, AMTS set at 6 (18.75*) and endbell timing set at default (middle position)
i mean for KO EX10, it has the Throttle Hipoint, should i set it at 100 or 150 when bind the speedo? same for the brake.

when checking temp for the ESC, which part should i check the temp from?

i am using lipo 5000mah 40c
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Last edited by lastsun; 12-10-2009 at 07:48 AM.
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Old 12-09-2009, 10:37 AM   #1298
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Does anyone know what is the factory set timing on the 17.5 V3?
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Old 12-09-2009, 08:36 PM   #1299
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Originally Posted by Solara View Post

Reset your model on your radio, then rebind the speedo and make sure both EPA are on 100%, nothing more..

That happened to me before when I was 1st using the 1.0. The EPA can be at max 120% on GT2, but yours is V1.1. It cannot be set to max. So you must be set at 100% only.

Your problem should not caused by the speedo setting like AMTS or DRRS. I remember that happened to me on 1 of the main. When everyone launched on the starting line, mine was stand still untill the car behind me rear ended me full powered...but once my car was rear ended, my car did move but I cannot use brake or my car will stall again...kinda like my car need a push start or something.
I Rebinded the esc, start a new model on radio to make sure. everything is at 100%

When I hit Fullthrottle, I get a green and red light but the car doesnt move. I have to hit reverse and quicly go foward to make it start... Can it just be that the esc is about to die?
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Old 12-10-2009, 07:50 AM   #1300
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Originally Posted by Solara View Post
Cain...charlie_b is right on....it is all about carrying corner speed thru out the entire LAP and for the rest of the 6 minutes.

If I remember correctly, your 4.25 final drive is NOT going to help you on "PUNCH" Department...lower the number of the final drive, faster top speed, but low on low-end power = torque. I am sure once you adjust your motor to 4.6 final drive range, your "PUNCH" will be back.

Also, try this....run about 1-2 minutes of your best laps and remember the lap time. Then pull the car, charge the batteries and cool down the motor...and try again, but this time...don't GUN your car like you used to. Try to go slow (not too slow but like 90% of your previous run in throttle except the straight line), but the key is....HUG all of the corners, slowly, but you must hug all the dots and go within 2" away from the dot or board (or even closer). Then check your lap time.....I don't know about you. A lot of the time, my lap time is .2-.5 faster then when I was all gun for the car.

It is very difficult to believe and do....I am still trying to tell myself to do that while I am racing (go slow and drive the fast line) but it is extremely difficult to do when you are racing 8 other cars within 6 minutes....but I believe, thats why the FAST GUY are fast even with the Novak GTB speedo...

Like other said, go open up your old DIFF of your TC4, remove the balls, clean it up, but don't remove the diff ring, you will need that, clean the rings up too...then cut 2-4 circle = to the diameter of the inner size of your diff...then place 2 layers on each side (or may be only 1) then build the diff like it used to...adjust the tightness by feel. Tight, but not loose....now, you have a "limited slip diff" for almost $0. I used that on my 13.5 and VTA car...
Thanks for the info. I'll have been studying the lines others have been taking and am getting better at that, lap times are getting closer for sure. But again, its the torque issue I have to work on and will at the next race as from a dead stop its like you are standing still compared to his car.

With the STR4 Pro II, I have a few extra diffs around so I'll take a look there too and see about making a spool. Also have other options like a torque limiting oneway diff and the center oneway as well.


I got my Speed Pasion GT 2.0 LPF ESC in and my 13.5 V3 motor as well! Wow, that motor looks good. with another track opening that is looking to continue doing 19T sedan , I should be able to give that a run there when I want to try something different. Very impressed though. May look into getting the 21.5 version and selling the Tekin.

I'll probably have some questions are far as adjusting timing on the motor, but, in general for the 13.5, what do you guys set the physical timing on the motor to right now for 4wd touring car?

Also, for the 17.5 ultra motors, what do you set that on for 2wd offroad like short course?
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Old 12-10-2009, 12:02 PM   #1301
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Default 17.5 in stock

these badboys LOOK fast.... my friendly neighborhood hobby shop just got them. SpeedtechRC.

http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...?catmainid=646
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Old 12-10-2009, 12:11 PM   #1302
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This is my Profile 0 setup as it is in my 17.5 Scythe on a large flowing track with 50/60m straight. 55mm roll out on rubber tyres.
Items marked with (+) is my setting.
Items marked with (*) is default esc setting

**********************************************ESC Info*********************************************
Controller:CAR_ESC
hardware version:HW427_V1.0
software version:V1.10_090312a_T

**********************************************Sett ing**********************************************
[Profile/Mode No.]
Mode 0

[Profile Name]
17.5 DMCC

[Running Mode]
Forward Only with Brake(*)(+) Forward/Reverse with Brake Forward/Reverse Direct

[Drag Brake Force]
0% 5% 10%(*)(+)
25% 40% 60%
80% 100% Custom

[Low Voltage Cut-Off]
Non-Protection(*) 2.6V/Cell 2.8V/Cell
3.0V/Cell 3.2V/Cell(+) 3.4V/Cell
Custom

["DDRS" Start Mode]
Level I Level II Level III
Level IV Level V Level VI
Level VII(+) Level VIII Level IX(*)

[Maximum Brake Force]
25% 50% 75%(*)
100%(+)

[Maximum Reverse Force]
25%(*)(+) 50% 75%
100%

[Initial Brake Force]
=Drag Brake Force(+) 0%(*) 20%
40%

[Neutral Range]
6%(Narrow)(*) 9%(Normal)(+) 12%(Wide)

["AMTS" Timing]
0.00 3.75 7.50
11.25 15.00 18.75
22.50 26.25(*)(+)

[Over-Heat Protection]
Enable(*)(+) Disable

================================================== ================================================== ================

This is my Profile 2 setup as it is in my 17.5 Scythe on a tight small track with 20/25m straight. 49mm roll out on rubber tyres.
Items marked with (+) is my setting.
Items marked with (*) is default esc settings.

**********************************************ESC Info*********************************************
Controller:CAR_ESC
hardware version:HW427_V1.0
software version:V1.10_090312a_T

**********************************************Sett ing**********************************************
[Profile/Mode No.]
Mode 2

[Profile Name]
17.5 CMCC

[Running Mode]
Forward Only with Brake(*)(+) Forward/Reverse with Brake Forward/Reverse Direct

[Drag Brake Force]
0% 5% 10%(*)
25%(+) 40% 60%
80% 100% Custom

[Low Voltage Cut-Off]
Non-Protection(*) 2.6V/Cell 2.8V/Cell
3.0V/Cell 3.2V/Cell(+) 3.4V/Cell
Custom

["DDRS" Start Mode]
Level I Level II Level III
Level IV Level V Level VI
Level VII(*) Level VIII(+) Level IX

[Maximum Brake Force]
25% 50% 75%
100%(*)(+)

[Maximum Reverse Force]
25% 50%(*)(+) 75%
100%

[Initial Brake Force]
=Drag Brake Force(*)(+) 0% 20%
40%

[Neutral Range]
6%(Narrow) 9%(Normal)(*)(+) 12%(Wide)

["AMTS" Timing]
0.00 3.75 7.50
11.25 15.00(+) 18.75
22.50(*) 26.25

[Over-Heat Protection]
Enable(*)(+) Disable
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Old 12-10-2009, 02:31 PM   #1303
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I will gladly and happily say that these motors are not only fast, but they run REALLY cool. Thank you, Speed Passion, for such a great motor. I am having fun with mine. Coupled with the Tekin RS Pro ESC, this thing is a banshee! I am slowly keeping up with the fast guys, but that is because I need to figure out the gearing.

I am running a 4.9 FDR currently and the motor is not a tick over 130 degrees after some very hard running. I am not using a heatsink or fan. That is VERY impressive in my opinion.

Kudos, Speed Passion. I am now a follower.
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Old 12-10-2009, 02:53 PM   #1304
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I will gladly and happily say that these motors are not only fast, but they run REALLY cool. Thank you, Speed Passion, for such a great motor. I am having fun with mine. Coupled with the Tekin RS Pro ESC, this thing is a banshee! I am slowly keeping up with the fast guys, but that is because I need to figure out the gearing.

I am running a 4.9 FDR currently and the motor is not a tick over 130 degrees after some very hard running. I am not using a heatsink or fan. That is VERY impressive in my opinion.

Kudos, Speed Passion. I am now a follower.
You should try the ESC...it is pretty kick @ss too.
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Old 12-10-2009, 03:18 PM   #1305
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hey guys just got my v3.0 13.5 today is the gearing diffrent than the v2.0
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