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Old 12-08-2009, 06:38 AM   #1276
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Originally Posted by Joey4875 View Post
I have a SPX profile on eight and I have the v3.0 17.5 the track I race at has a 100' straight away what FDR should I start with ?
Hey Joey4875 I had the same setup I think the ideal FDR for the 100 foot is about 4.8 - 5.0.... I would recommend 4.9 to start with the SPX... I did not experiment with lower physical motor timing like Adam suggested I had it on max while using SPX.... which may be the reason why I had to use negative exponential (dx7) on throttle to get the spx turbo/timing advance to kick in early...

i'll be testing tomorrow late afternoon with a few other folks if you are planning on coming would be great
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Old 12-08-2009, 06:39 AM   #1277
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I have a SPX profile on eight and I have the v3.0 17.5 the track I race at has a 100' straight away what FDR should I start with ?
I think you are better asking in the SPX thread, you have to gear for the speedo now, instead of the motor.

Crazy days.

I normally suggest to start at 4.5 and go up teeth, but I think the SPX guys run more like 6 or more.

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Old 12-08-2009, 08:59 AM   #1278
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
Thanks for the info. So when you say advance timing on the motor, my understanding is that this was all software change? Does moving the physical timing on the motor make a difference then?

From what I can tell, one of the drivers who owns the track has a setup that is superb in the torque department and the same basically as my top end. His level of torque he can generate is like jawdropping compared to what the next fast guy can do.

I basically went as close to the FDR as I could as when was higher up, I was topping out wayyy before everyone else around the track. Maybe the latest software and playing with physical motor timing will affect this in the manner I want?
Yes...I meant the phyical timing "notch" that is on the motor itself...
My theory is...always start low, and climb up....if you are starting @ 4.2 final drive already, where else you can go if you don't like that feeling when 4.2 is the limit under USVTA rule...

And yes...software, hardware both play a hugh part on this electric TC racing...hugh.
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Old 12-08-2009, 09:02 AM   #1279
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Originally Posted by charlie_b View Post
With the old V2.0 motor was geared 4.1.
With the new V3.0 i was gearing at 3.8. Keep in mind, this is a track with 170' straights and 15' lanes. I use no brakes and double one-ways with this set up. I don't recommend this gearing for tracks smaller than 140' straights and requires a lot of braking. I also have a 40mm fan on the motor to keep it cool.
Thanks for sharing...I am totally awared of the size of your track and I will adjust the final drive accordingly....just want to save/write down all these data in my notebook so I can compare and test while I was at the track...at least, I don't have to start from 6.8 final drive and keep gearing up...saved me some time.
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Old 12-08-2009, 09:04 AM   #1280
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Originally Posted by J@UNE View Post
I just started to run a second class and I'm using my old GT1.0

The motor cog at very low speed and sometime it doesn't even move at start, It need a push. I tried changing the settings with the programmer but it doesn't seem any better.

I'm using 14Guage wires, could that be the cause?

Thanks.
Check your sensor cable...AND, make sure your radio's throttle EPA is set @ 100% but not anything higher like 120%...also, same thing on brake, 100% only...not 101 or 120%...
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Old 12-08-2009, 09:15 AM   #1281
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Originally Posted by Solara View Post
Yes...I meant the phyical timing "notch" that is on the motor itself...
My theory is...always start low, and climb up....if you are starting @ 4.2 final drive already, where else you can go if you don't like that feeling when 4.2 is the limit under USVTA rule...

And yes...software, hardware both play a hugh part on this electric TC racing...hugh.
thats for the info. So to confirm my understanding, if I go up on the timing on the motor, that should give me more RPM correct? so I can then back off on my gearing to get back the torque I am missing.

Is that correct? More timing increases RPM (does it also drop torque?)

Still learning this stuff coming from a sensorless background.
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Old 12-08-2009, 09:27 AM   #1282
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
thats for the info. So to confirm my understanding, if I go up on the timing on the motor, that should give me more RPM correct? so I can then back off on my gearing to get back the torque I am missing.

Is that correct? More timing increases RPM (does it also drop torque?)

Still learning this stuff coming from a sensorless background.
yes
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Old 12-08-2009, 09:32 AM   #1283
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Originally Posted by Solara View Post
Check your sensor cable...AND, make sure your radio's throttle EPA is set @ 100% but not anything higher like 120%...also, same thing on brake, 100% only...not 101 or 120%...
I'll check the EPA. The sensor wire was checked, I tried three motors and one of them had the built-in wire, The three worked fine on the Tekin. I also tried different lipos wich were all close to 8.4V.

I also tried all the ddrs and timing settings.

Thanks for the answers guys!
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Old 12-08-2009, 10:10 AM   #1284
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Hi, I am very new to EP. Can anyone help me with the followings:

1. I am using KO EX10-Helio C2. how should i setup my radio before i bind the ESC (SP GT2 PRO carbon)? ie. throttle hi-point 100 or ???, brake 100 or ???, etc.

2. Is it ture that once i ever had an ECS temp-cut, it will just keep cutting no matter what i do? i running on a Orion 4T with 10.54 on a xray T2'09 and motor temp was at 65deg.c when esc cut at 4 minutes mark. the esc was flashing single green light

3. what esc setup should be run for 4 turn? ie the start mode and timing.
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Old 12-08-2009, 12:36 PM   #1285
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
thats for the info. So to confirm my understanding, if I go up on the timing on the motor, that should give me more RPM correct? so I can then back off on my gearing to get back the torque I am missing.

Is that correct? More timing increases RPM (does it also drop torque?)

Still learning this stuff coming from a sensorless background.
Yes...more timing increase RPM, however, that will decrease the torque. Like a power screwdriver, you want to turn it to SLOW (low RPM) to drive a screw into a stud wall, same idea....
You cannot have BOTH at their peak...but you can have both with average power, its about balance...you can have high speed on the straight but losing torque at the turns. Or you can have punch on the infield and OK speed on the staight...for me, I would choose the 2nd choice...each track has more turns then the straight, INFIELD speed makes fast lap time, not the straight line speed...

To save you time, do this...

Use 312a software on GT2. Then DRRS (8 or 9) and AMTS set to max (26.26). Your 21.5 of the choice...use the default motor timing (like 10* on Duo2 or 5* on SP V3). That will be your base line setup. Use a spool on the front. No drag brake and set full brake to like 25-50% just for emergency. Start gearing your car @ 4.8 first. Set your limit to 4.4 final drive (by gearing up)...I highly doubt your 4.2 final drive lap time is faster then 4.5 final drive. 4.2 final drive only gives you straight line speed when the straight line might be as short as 75 feet...Try it on the track and compare laptime. I hardly care about how punchy my car is or how fast the straightaway speed of my VTA car except I care about my laptime...VTA is all about corner speed and how much speed you are push for the wholelap....like if you are off the drive line for couple turns, you are .5 sec off the lap time, and you have to that for 8 minutes....thats why even someone with a GTB can be on the A-main along with those who use SPX and RS speedo.

If you are still not happy about 4.5 final drive...then you can try adjust your motor endbell timing by a notch at a time...like 2-5* each time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by J@UNE View Post
I'll check the EPA. The sensor wire was checked, I tried three motors and one of them had the built-in wire, The three worked fine on the Tekin. I also tried different lipos wich were all close to 8.4V.

I also tried all the ddrs and timing settings.

Thanks for the answers guys!
Reset your model on your radio, then rebind the speedo and make sure both EPA are on 100%, nothing more..

That happened to me before when I was 1st using the 1.0. The EPA can be at max 120% on GT2, but yours is V1.1. It cannot be set to max. So you must be set at 100% only.

Your problem should not caused by the speedo setting like AMTS or DRRS. I remember that happened to me on 1 of the main. When everyone launched on the starting line, mine was stand still untill the car behind me rear ended me full powered...but once my car was rear ended, my car did move but I cannot use brake or my car will stall again...kinda like my car need a push start or something.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lastsun View Post
Hi, I am very new to EP. Can anyone help me with the followings:

1. I am using KO EX10-Helio C2. how should i setup my radio before i bind the ESC (SP GT2 PRO carbon)? ie. throttle hi-point 100 or ???, brake 100 or ???, etc.

2. Is it ture that once i ever had an ECS temp-cut, it will just keep cutting no matter what i do? i running on a Orion 4T with 10.54 on a xray T2'09 and motor temp was at 65deg.c when esc cut at 4 minutes mark. the esc was flashing single green light

3. what esc setup should be run for 4 turn? ie the start mode and timing.
For me...I always FORMAT my current model setting so everything are on DEFAULT on my radio. So I know all the setting are in default setting before I am binding the speedo. To asnwer your question...yes, throttle and brake both 100%.

I don't use temp cutoff, never did, never need that...I can't answer that question.

I ran 3.5T before...gear @ 10 final drive and DRRS set at 6~7, AMTS set at 6 (18.75*) and endbell timing set at default (middle position)
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Old 12-08-2009, 12:53 PM   #1286
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Thanks for the info. I'll give that a shot. I don't have a spool option on the vehicle I run, just both one way types (shaft drive car).

I am still curious though how the top driver is getting the best of both worlds, top speed that I am close to, plus insane infield torque. I believe he is running a Tekin RS setup with I think a duo based motor. It reminds me of a 19T sedan with foams from the way it punches, at least, from what I did back in the day.
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Old 12-08-2009, 03:02 PM   #1287
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Cain, sometimes what we see isn't always what we think is going on.
Although yes some of the faster drivers might appear to have a lot of rip outta the corners, but really, its corner speed they have by taking the right line.
Even on the straight, sometimes when you approach the straight at full throttle way before your car is actually straight, you gain and extra 5-10 feet of speed because you have already built your momentum. The fast guys have already figured out the fast way around the track..i would follow them and see what lines and corners they are hitting and when they are rolling the throttle and hitting the brakes. You will be surprised by driving alone, can give the the appearance of "fast" when you are driving the right line.
This was proven to me 15 years ago at a local SCCA event when my boss at the time drove a BONE STOCK Hyundai Excel with stock 13" tires around the cones 2 seconds faster than my buddy's Mustang GT 5.0. This applies to RC. Line is everything.
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Old 12-08-2009, 03:05 PM   #1288
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Originally Posted by charlie_b View Post
Cain, sometimes what we see isn't always what we think is going on.
Although yes some of the faster drivers might appear to have a lot of rip outta the corners, but really, its corner speed they have by taking the right line.
Even on the straight, sometimes when you approach the straight at full throttle way before your car is actually straight, you gain and extra 5-10 feet of speed because you have already built your momentum. The fast guys have already figured out the fast way around the track..i would follow them and see what lines and corners they are hitting and when they are rolling the throttle and hitting the brakes. You will be surprised by driving alone, can give the the appearance of "fast" when you are driving the right line.
This was proven to me 15 years ago at a local SCCA event when my boss at the time drove a BONE STOCK Hyundai Excel with stock 13" tires around the cones 2 seconds faster than my buddy's Mustang GT 5.0. This applies to RC. Line is everything.
I this case however, it is what you see. The area I am talking about as far as the big increase in torque over what everyone else has is like in 5 feet of space. It reminds me of comparing the start of a nitro 1/8 versus an electric 1/8. Its that punchy.

Don't get me wrong, I agree about the corner speed thing as he is an excellent driver, but when taking the corners with him, I am right there with him. Even when we got tangled up in the infield, from dead start he was just gone.

Thats why I am wondering if I have something configured wrong on my car.
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Old 12-08-2009, 05:01 PM   #1289
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
Thanks for the info. I'll give that a shot. I don't have a spool option on the vehicle I run, just both one way types (shaft drive car).

I am still curious though how the top driver is getting the best of both worlds, top speed that I am close to, plus insane infield torque. I believe he is running a Tekin RS setup with I think a duo based motor. It reminds me of a 19T sedan with foams from the way it punches, at least, from what I did back in the day.
cain if the academy is like tc4 u can make a spool in the front just remove the rings and the balls and cut some business cards in the shape of the ring and re assemble the diff it will lock up like a spool but you put alot more abuse on the cvds
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Old 12-08-2009, 05:27 PM   #1290
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Originally Posted by Solara View Post
Yes...more timing increase RPM, however, that will decrease the torque. Like a power screwdriver, you want to turn it to SLOW (low RPM) to drive a screw into a stud wall, same idea....
You cannot have BOTH at their peak...but you can have both with average power, its about balance...you can have high speed on the straight but losing torque at the turns. Or you can have punch on the infield and OK speed on the staight...for me, I would choose the 2nd choice...each track has more turns then the straight, INFIELD speed makes fast lap time, not the straight line speed...

To save you time, do this...

Use 312a software on GT2. Then DRRS (8 or 9) and AMTS set to max (26.26). Your 21.5 of the choice...use the default motor timing (like 10* on Duo2 or 5* on SP V3). That will be your base line setup. Use a spool on the front. No drag brake and set full brake to like 25-50% just for emergency. Start gearing your car @ 4.8 first. Set your limit to 4.4 final drive (by gearing up)...I highly doubt your 4.2 final drive lap time is faster then 4.5 final drive. 4.2 final drive only gives you straight line speed when the straight line might be as short as 75 feet...Try it on the track and compare laptime. I hardly care about how punchy my car is or how fast the straightaway speed of my VTA car except I care about my laptime...VTA is all about corner speed and how much speed you are push for the wholelap....like if you are off the drive line for couple turns, you are .5 sec off the lap time, and you have to that for 8 minutes....thats why even someone with a GTB can be on the A-main along with those who use SPX and RS speedo.

If you are still not happy about 4.5 final drive...then you can try adjust your motor endbell timing by a notch at a time...like 2-5* each time.



Reset your model on your radio, then rebind the speedo and make sure both EPA are on 100%, nothing more..

That happened to me before when I was 1st using the 1.0. The EPA can be at max 120% on GT2, but yours is V1.1. It cannot be set to max. So you must be set at 100% only.

Your problem should not caused by the speedo setting like AMTS or DRRS. I remember that happened to me on 1 of the main. When everyone launched on the starting line, mine was stand still untill the car behind me rear ended me full powered...but once my car was rear ended, my car did move but I cannot use brake or my car will stall again...kinda like my car need a push start or something.



For me...I always FORMAT my current model setting so everything are on DEFAULT on my radio. So I know all the setting are in default setting before I am binding the speedo. To asnwer your question...yes, throttle and brake both 100%.

I don't use temp cutoff, never did, never need that...I can't answer that question.

I ran 3.5T before...gear @ 10 final drive and DRRS set at 6~7, AMTS set at 6 (18.75*) and endbell timing set at default (middle position)




Thanks for the insight here, really good info.... I would assume this setup should apply to the 17.5 motor also?

I am using 312a like you suggested but also wondering what all the other versions are for? is there a list that describes each software version ?
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