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Old 04-18-2009, 07:35 PM   #106
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Default New GT2

Hey guys just got the new SP GT2 and 10.5, does any one know of a good start off point for timing and gearing on a med/fast outdoor ashfalt track. Considering the timing on the SP 10.5 is not adjustable, does that mean I should run more ESC timing. Thanks in advance.
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Old 04-18-2009, 11:02 PM   #107
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ok guys i have the gt 2.0 lpf speed control and wanted to know whats the best bang for the buck settings for the speed control ddrs timing etc for tc with 21.5 running in the vta class and should i advance the motor timing also or leave it stock. fdr right now is at 5.0 and its a xray t2007
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Old 04-19-2009, 03:40 AM   #108
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Does the GT2.0 have the ability to change timing on the fly? If so can I adjust the diiference between lower RPM timing and high RPM timing?
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Old 04-19-2009, 08:30 AM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawn Palmer View Post
memix:
Since we're re-creating some info for the moment, here's how the interplay with timing advance and gearing works:

When you're setting up a new power system or stepping onto a new track with anything faster than a 10.5 motor, always start with the timing advance LOW. If you're too slow, start to gear up to whatever the track can handle or whatever you can handle. Remember that low lap times are what you're looking for, and that blazing speed down the straight that everyone likes may end up giving you SLOWER lap times in the long run

Once you've got the gearing in the right range, then you can experiment with some higher timing advance for a bit more straight speed and punch out of the corners, but remember - adding timing advance is very much like adding a tooth or two to the pinion - The car will be faster, and the motor will get hotter. Watch your temps while you're doing it and experiment with how you like the feel of a few teeth down on the pinion combined with a few settings up on the timing. Generally low timing and faster gearing will give you a smoother softer feel in the infield - generally good for tight technical tracks. Higher timing and slower gearing gives you a punchier hard hitting feel (which some prefer on any track).

For 10.5, 13.5, 17.5 and 21.5 motors:
Racing setups for these motors has generally evolved into "max out the timing advance, and adjust gearing to keep motor temps in check".

Your temp gun and lap time sheet are your best friend here. With the timing maxxed out, a very good driver can recognize the "breaking point" of the motor very quickly. This is the point when you are adding a tooth, seeing laptimes go down and the motor is not overheating yet, and you add another tooth and repeat. At some point when you add one more tooth, usually two or three things happen all at once: You notice you have lost a lot of rip out of tight corners (the motor is maxxed out on torque), your laptimes have gotten slower, and the motor is at or beyond it's safe max temp. This is the breaking point, and for Nationals level drivers - they go down one tooth and call it a day.

For club level, I would recommend going down 2 or 3 teeth to give you some extra security from blowing motors, and here's why:

Traction conditions can change during the day, and added traction = more motor heat. Ambient temps change during the day, and higher ambient temps = more motor heat. Even something like a slight drivetrain bind, or a wheel bearing starting to go bad will add friction to the drivetrain and thus add motor heat. If you are just barely one tooth under the breaking point, there are many many factors that might come into play that will shoot you right over the edge in an instant, and then you've smoked a motor.

Max temps:
21.5 = 140F
17.5 = 145F
13.5 = 165F
10.5 = 175F
Anything faster than 10.5 = 185F
Where on the motor do you check the temps?
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Old 04-19-2009, 09:33 AM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcos.J View Post
I had similar issues but with the 1.1 GT , I ended up running around a 10.25FDR in a large outdoor track with no problems, also try dropping your timing to #2 ( i think its 3.75 degrees)
Thank you very much for the tips Marcos J. I followed your advice using 10.275FDR and step down a click of my esc timing (I think its 11 deg something). Since that I did not get any cut off any more. I ended up TQ and won in the A main mod class.

As for the melting solder from my deans connector I swap it with bullet type 3.5mm size connector and it solved my problem.

BTW where can I get a higher melting temp solder lead?
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Old 04-19-2009, 12:51 PM   #111
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I would like to thank, once again, to Shaw Palmer , for his advices.
Finally, i make a good race, TQ and win final-A, in 10.5 stock class, i use the Speed Passion Supercapacitor, with Nosram ISTC, and Speed Passion 10.5R, with 5.45 FDR, in Small/medium track, with Lipos.

Greetings, Luis C.
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Old 04-19-2009, 03:23 PM   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjh28 View Post
Where on the motor do you check the temps?
The hot spot on my 13.5 is on the can right next to the end with the solder tabs, right on the "13.5T" engraving.

-rocky b

Last edited by flatspunout; 04-19-2009 at 05:48 PM.
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Old 04-19-2009, 05:12 PM   #113
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I normally look at the bottom of the screen on my radio LOL!

I use a temp sensor inside the motor and it works great.
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Old 04-19-2009, 06:37 PM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dameetz View Post
Thank you very much for the tips Marcos J. I followed your advice using 10.275FDR and step down a click of my esc timing (I think its 11 deg something). Since that I did not get any cut off any more. I ended up TQ and won in the A main mod class.

As for the melting solder from my deans connector I swap it with bullet type 3.5mm size connector and it solved my problem.

BTW where can I get a higher melting temp solder lead?
Im glad it worked out for you , Im glad I can help!
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Old 04-19-2009, 07:15 PM   #115
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Finally got to run the SP2.0 today, simply amazing, ultra smooth, great brakes, and delievers on heck of a punch when needed. ran it in my Mi3 with a 6.5 geared at 89/24 and ran with the 4.0's and 4.5's.
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Old 04-19-2009, 08:56 PM   #116
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Happy to report that I ran my new 2.0 GT this weekend with no thermal issues. Ran both a 3.5 and 4.5. The speedo never got hot for me, The 3.5 temped at 178 degrees F which was a little hot, But I think if I work on the setting a little, I can bring this down.
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Old 04-20-2009, 10:48 AM   #117
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Originally Posted by dbmartin View Post
Happy to report that I ran my new 2.0 GT this weekend with no thermal issues. Ran both a 3.5 and 4.5. The speedo never got hot for me, The 3.5 temped at 178 degrees F which was a little hot, But I think if I work on the setting a little, I can bring this down.
Hey Dave got mine installed today, see yah at the Region 4 race!

trim the timing down some with the 3.5 and the temps should go down a bit
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Old 04-20-2009, 12:30 PM   #118
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Originally Posted by skypilot View Post
Finally got to run the SP2.0 today, simply amazing, ultra smooth, great brakes, and delievers on heck of a punch when needed. ran it in my Mi3 with a 6.5 geared at 89/24 and ran with the 4.0's and 4.5's.
So that 's the secret...No wondering your fast and smooth..good run richie..
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Old 04-20-2009, 01:31 PM   #119
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I'm running the older SP esc, the ver 1.0. My question/problem is that I only get about 10% power off the line and then 1/2 sec. later full power. BTW, my radio is a Helios with Spektrum.

Thanks for any help you can provide


I remember seeing this discussed/resolved in the old thread but.....
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Old 04-21-2009, 01:01 AM   #120
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Originally Posted by skypilot View Post
Finally got to run the SP2.0 today, simply amazing, ultra smooth, great brakes, and delievers on heck of a punch when needed. ran it in my Mi3 with a 6.5 geared at 89/24 and ran with the 4.0's and 4.5's.
nice nice .. do more report about GT 2.0 ..
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