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Old 01-31-2013, 01:40 PM   #11116
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Question for the SP pros. I have a Reventon Pro in my TC with a 4.5T LRP. After about 3min the speedo all but shuts off and the car powers down to about 1% throttle. There are no lights flashing indicating over heating, but temping the speedo it reads ~180F on the heat sink. Additionally, after the last run the capacitor was +160F and the heat shrink surrounding it had began to flow (indicating it was quite hot). I'm using the ESC fan, modified1 software, and the DMTS is at 11.25. Any suggestions?
Could be a bad capacitor or maybe a wire is touching somewhere
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Old 01-31-2013, 01:45 PM   #11117
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Could be a bad capacitor or maybe a wire is touching somewhere
I'll look into the wires toughing tonight. Threading the cap wires through the small vias makes for a tight fit. I thought it was tight when I was putting it together and thought there may be a potential for shorting, but figured just one or two strands of the cap wires touching each other would just quickly arc and burn back. I'll definetly look at it again though, and check for conductance between all the poles and phases.
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Old 01-31-2013, 02:35 PM   #11118
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Originally Posted by Vidra View Post
Hi Guys,

I want to know if it's ok to install HW software for V3 in to my SP GT2.0 Pro?
Are they compatible?

Thanks
Nope....
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Old 01-31-2013, 02:37 PM   #11119
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Originally Posted by samnelso View Post
I'll look into the wires toughing tonight. Threading the cap wires through the small vias makes for a tight fit. I thought it was tight when I was putting it together and thought there may be a potential for shorting, but figured just one or two strands of the cap wires touching each other would just quickly arc and burn back. I'll definetly look at it again though, and check for conductance between all the poles and phases.
Immediately change the capacitor (you can use any brand) and check all the wire connection and make sure they are not touching...I am suspecting you might got shorted somewhere on the ESC.
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Old 01-31-2013, 03:34 PM   #11120
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Immediately change the capacitor (you can use any brand) and check all the wire connection and make sure they are not touching...I am suspecting you might got shorted somewhere on the ESC.
I had this exact same problem and it has to have been caused by overheating making something fail rather than wires touching on there own, the wiring was definitely sound. It was 8 minutes into a 4wd offroad final on a 6.5 Thunderpower Motor. My fan also failed.

I had hoped it just meant a thermal, but sounds like I have a bigger problem!

If it has shorted is it terminal?
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Old 01-31-2013, 03:36 PM   #11121
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In fact I am racing Saturday and only have a capacitor off a Hobbywing 1S (though it works on 2s too) spare, can I try using this?
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Old 01-31-2013, 03:42 PM   #11122
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capacitor question: any specs to stick with? Had a GT2.1 Pro Stock come in, its capacitor looked like it had seen better days, had a dent in it. Figured just drop one on and had a high voltage novak from my 1/8 scale days lying around so I put that on. Curious though what specs you need to have, wonder if even those glitch buster spektrum caps could work.
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Old 01-31-2013, 04:19 PM   #11123
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Capacitor....need to be around 2200uf 25V.......higher the better.
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Old 01-31-2013, 05:00 PM   #11124
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I used the following settings at my local club which is 32m x 14m.
xray T4
MMM 10.5 geared at 8.50
SP Rev Pro v20
For/Brake
3.0v/cell cut off
ABS 100%
Drag 20%
Initial 30%
(brakes are still a bit poor)
DRRS 9
HB boost 100%
HB Max 150K
Slope Instant
Delay 0.1
Start 4000
Very quick and motor came off at 28-31 degrees C
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Old 02-02-2013, 02:50 AM   #11125
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Hi all , question is if I buy gear from say America is it then , I need to warranty it there if the need arises. I want to seek another avenue for speed passion gear as I am not impressed with the one here. My money is not hobby money lol
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Old 02-02-2013, 08:21 AM   #11126
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Bought a GT2.0 PRO for my mini, went testing yesterday with a 17.5 Ballistic .
Put the car on the track did 2 laps it started jerking and then it stopped, then all of a sudden the motor was turning on and I wasn't touching the trottle???
So we taught it was a glitch problem and put a Spektrum glitch capacitor, seems it solved the problem.....
Went back on the track did about 10 laps without problems, so I decided to change pinion so I went to a 20, got back on the track did 2 laps and it was FAST.

I started the computer to check my times, did 1 lap hit the inside curb (not that hard) and it stopped,

Now I turn it on, the red light goes on for a couple of seconds and then it goes off and then nothing!!! no signal to the motor.

Tried switching channels on receiver nothing, tried another motor nothing.

What should I look for ?

I want to run it in blinky mode for the Canadian onraod Natl, so I have to find my problem.

Best regards

Richard
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Old 02-02-2013, 09:20 AM   #11127
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Originally Posted by Starteur View Post
Bought a GT2.0 PRO for my mini, went testing yesterday with a 17.5 Ballistic .
Put the car on the track did 2 laps it started jerking and then it stopped, then all of a sudden the motor was turning on and I wasn't touching the trottle???
So we taught it was a glitch problem and put a Spektrum glitch capacitor, seems it solved the problem.....
Went back on the track did about 10 laps without problems, so I decided to change pinion so I went to a 20, got back on the track did 2 laps and it was FAST.

I started the computer to check my times, did 1 lap hit the inside curb (not that hard) and it stopped,

Now I turn it on, the red light goes on for a couple of seconds and then it goes off and then nothing!!! no signal to the motor.

Tried switching channels on receiver nothing, tried another motor nothing.

What should I look for ?

I want to run it in blinky mode for the Canadian onraod Natl, so I have to find my problem.

Best regards

Richard
Try redoing the configuration.

If that fails, try installing a different software, remove it, and put the blinky back on. reconfigure everything to the transmitter.

Also, try fresh sensor wire.
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Old 02-02-2013, 09:37 AM   #11128
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
Try redoing the configuration.

If that fails, try installing a different software, remove it, and put the blinky back on. reconfigure everything to the transmitter.

Also, try fresh sensor wire.
I don't have the Pro box, and one thing I forgot to tell I tried pluging my program card and it lights up but no value appear on both screen.

I will try to re-configure and change the sensor wire and will give you some news.

Thanks
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Old 02-02-2013, 01:41 PM   #11129
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Re-programed everything changed sensor wire, looks like it works OK.

Will have to test on track.
I didn't put the thermal protection because I run Novak motor and they say in the manual it might not work properly.

Thanks for the help.

Richard
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Old 02-02-2013, 03:31 PM   #11130
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Exclamation Help!!

Bought a brand new Speed Passion Cirtix Club Stock direct from the company. I'm trying to run a Novak 17.5 Ballastic motor. I have tried NiCD & NIMH batteries (don't have a 2S LIPO....yet) as the instructions say the ESC will allow them.
Problem I'm having is that the red LED on the ESC keeps blinking, but nothing is happening with the motor. In one part of the instructions, it says the problem could be low battery voltage. Yet in another part, it says the red LED will blink continuously in normal use for this model only.
1. Batteries are fully charged.
2. Changed out sensor wire.
3. Removed sensor wire.
4. Calibrated the ESC.
5. Recalibrated the ESC.
6. Changed out sensor board on motor.
7. Changed out batteries & type of batteries (NICD & NIMH).
So, what else should I do/check? The wires on the motor are correct. A to A, B to B, & C to C. Sensor wire is hooked up, as the Novak requires it. I know the motor automatically senses whether you're running a sensored or sensorless motor.
Is it because I need to be running a 2S LIPO? Is the stator shot?
Is their a certain MaH required to power the ESC using different battery types? I'm currently using anywhere from 1500MaH-3300MaH.
Any help is greatly appreciated!!
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