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Old 09-03-2012, 09:31 AM   #9901
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It would be very nice if there was an R or S model that supported 1s since most of the tracks I know of only run 17.5 or 13.5 no boost. Maybe we will see one at some point but until then I will be happy to put the Pro EX in my cars (when it becomes available).
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Old 09-03-2012, 11:59 AM   #9902
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I just picked up a couple of 17.5 MMM's and I am trying different rotors out. Just wondering what everyone shoots for as far as shimming is concerned. I have less than 1mm of play, too much? too little? just right?

Also does anyone know how this affects performance, another words if you shim it pretty tight will the motor produce more torque or rpm?

Just converted all my stuff to SP and looking to get the most out of it.....
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Old 09-03-2012, 10:38 PM   #9903
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Need some advice with timing in 17.5 Blinky. I am running the Comp V3.0 MMM motor, Novak GTB2 esc and IP6800 70c batteries. The track is a medium sized asphalt track, with a 50-60ft straight and 13 corners of varying speeds (flat out sweepers to hairpins). Should I have any of the optional sensor units in my spares box?
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Old 09-04-2012, 07:34 AM   #9904
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rimracker View Post
I just picked up a couple of 17.5 MMM's and I am trying different rotors out. Just wondering what everyone shoots for as far as shimming is concerned. I have less than 1mm of play, too much? too little? just right?

Also does anyone know how this affects performance, another words if you shim it pretty tight will the motor produce more torque or rpm?

Just converted all my stuff to SP and looking to get the most out of it.....
With any motor, you want just a tiny bit of play. But if there is no play you run the risk of causing a lot of unnecessary motor heat.

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Originally Posted by bigtez View Post
Need some advice with timing in 17.5 Blinky. I am running the Comp V3.0 MMM motor, Novak GTB2 esc and IP6800 70c batteries. The track is a medium sized asphalt track, with a 50-60ft straight and 13 corners of varying speeds (flat out sweepers to hairpins). Should I have any of the optional sensor units in my spares box?
The +20* (green) and +30 degree (yellow) timing boards would be good to have.
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Old 09-04-2012, 08:55 AM   #9905
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Originally Posted by rimracker View Post
I just picked up a couple of 17.5 MMM's and I am trying different rotors out. Just wondering what everyone shoots for as far as shimming is concerned. I have less than 1mm of play, too much? too little? just right?

Also does anyone know how this affects performance, another words if you shim it pretty tight will the motor produce more torque or rpm?

Just converted all my stuff to SP and looking to get the most out of it.....
You will NOT find a night and day different...never.

But you MUST have at least 0.2mm spacing after you mounted the motor but pulling the shaft in and out...you need to feel there is a gap between the end of the rotor and the end bell...

If you don't feel any gap/spacing after putting the motor together, that is not right...you will cook your motor.
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Old 09-04-2012, 08:58 AM   #9906
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Quote:
Originally Posted by linkless View Post
It would be very nice if there was an R or S model that supported 1s since most of the tracks I know of only run 17.5 or 13.5 no boost. Maybe we will see one at some point but until then I will be happy to put the Pro EX in my cars (when it becomes available).
Well, I have sample of the S for 1 cell use...but..I don't see there is a market for it. Selling 10-15 of those in USA per year does not make that work.

This was done on the Cirtix Club Spec years ago...again, we hardly sell any of those nor anyone are interested on that. Simply because they are actually prefer to use the external lipo pack and booster pack instead of relying on the 1S system within the ESC....because of that, we leave it 2S and let them use their own booster cells and lipo receiver packs....that will work too.

Only TQ CELL BOOSTER so far is working with our ESC....
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Old 09-04-2012, 08:59 AM   #9907
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigtez View Post
Need some advice with timing in 17.5 Blinky. I am running the Comp V3.0 MMM motor, Novak GTB2 esc and IP6800 70c batteries. The track is a medium sized asphalt track, with a 50-60ft straight and 13 corners of varying speeds (flat out sweepers to hairpins). Should I have any of the optional sensor units in my spares box?
Please see below G12314 recommended setting.........
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Last edited by Solara; 09-04-2012 at 11:03 AM.
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Old 09-04-2012, 10:20 AM   #9908
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Oh yes, stock the YELLOW one...and set it at middle and gear at 3.8....(yellow sensor board set at middle is about 35*) your original RED sensor is about 15* when set at middle....
For 60ft straight, I would start with 30 degrees of timing and a 4.8 FDR (not 3.8FDR, ).

As already mentioned, having the green and yellow timing boards in your pit box will allow you to tailor the motor to just about any track. Green board would be more focused on BIG tracks and the Yellow board for smaller tracks.

Jimmy
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Old 09-04-2012, 10:29 AM   #9909
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I'm finding the yellow boards for carpet racing bring to much heat. Green boards work better and better all around power for carpet racing. Lower motor temps.
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Old 09-04-2012, 11:03 AM   #9910
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g12314 View Post
For 60ft straight, I would start with 30 degrees of timing and a 4.8 FDR (not 3.8FDR, ).

As already mentioned, having the green and yellow timing boards in your pit box will allow you to tailor the motor to just about any track. Green board would be more focused on BIG tracks and the Yellow board for smaller tracks.

Jimmy
That's why I have you to do all of my motor and you are the motor guy for the team....please from now on, answer all those motor question for me.
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Old 09-04-2012, 11:21 AM   #9911
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Hey guys, Looking for a Reventon WiFi module if any one has an extra, Looking to showcase the new features for a Big Race locally in Las Vegas in 2 weeks, Please let me know ASAP if anyone has one they can part with, unfortunately Speed Passion wont have any for at least 3-4 weeks. Thanks, Ryan
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Old 09-04-2012, 11:27 AM   #9912
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I have a GT 2.0 ESC for a 2wd mod buggy with 8.5 motor and looking to also use one for 4wd buggy with a 5.5 or 6.5 motor. For this type of use, can I use any other capacitor other than the huge one that comes with the ESC in the box? I'm just trying to reduce the size so it fits easier on the chassis. thanks
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Old 09-04-2012, 03:54 PM   #9913
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g12314 View Post
For 60ft straight, I would start with 30 degrees of timing and a 4.8 FDR (not 3.8FDR, ).

As already mentioned, having the green and yellow timing boards in your pit box will allow you to tailor the motor to just about any track. Green board would be more focused on BIG tracks and the Yellow board for smaller tracks.

Jimmy
Thanks Jimmy, Solara and M-Technic.

I have just ordered the green and yellow timing boards from the local Aussie warehouse, so hopefully they arrive before the weekend.
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Old 09-05-2012, 04:00 AM   #9914
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ran it last night AWSOME SPEEDY with lots of feeling at the top
we will go for speed next but the car is no slower but more drivable throughout the range

exactly how do you clean the led i cant see a menu for that.
I will get this right so we can support some more Fellows the the track
Can use the led to edit but it locks up every time you edit an item in 0 stock and can only be set by cycling the on of button.
is this normal upgraded everthing software wise on lap top
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Old 09-05-2012, 05:21 AM   #9915
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Can use the led to edit but it locks up every time you edit an item in 0 stock and can only be set by cycling the on of button.
is this normal upgraded everthing software wise on lap top
This is kind of "out there" but it may work as it seems the hobbywing & speed passion stuff have similar "issues".
Do you update the LED box like you do with the hobbywing lcd box? If so try running the update a couple of times and see if that helps the issue.

Couple of weeks ago helped a friend with a speed passion GT esc as he wasn't getting any braking with it, after he changed the capacitors with no difference we tried the "fix" that works with hobbywing esc's
We set the brake force to 100% (up from 70%), and set reverse force to 100%. Even though the esc was in fwd/brake mode this fixed his problems and gave him ample braking.

Cheers
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