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Old 04-30-2012, 03:03 AM   #9361
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Here is a crazy question. How do you go about replacing the motor wires for the Cirtix esc if they are cut to short? I tried to desolder the wires from the board and they would not come off. So do I have to buy a new esc now?
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Old 04-30-2012, 02:50 PM   #9362
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Originally Posted by Bumpy View Post
Hey all.

There is a guy at my club who has just purchased a new Cirtix esc and Ultra sportsman 17.5 motor and he cant get it to run. It shows a solid orange light and flashing red which says in the manual that its in sensorless mode. I have tried 3 different motors (2 of which are my own which are perfectly fine running in my cars) and 3 different sensor leads too.I have tried resetting the esc and rebinding it, all the usual stuff but no luck so far. I just cant seem to get the esc out of sensorless mode. Any help is appreciated.
Is he using a Futaba radio?
If so, try reversing the throttle on the transmitter and recalibrate the speedo.
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Old 04-30-2012, 04:05 PM   #9363
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Originally Posted by arn671 View Post
Has anyone had any experience with getting a GT 2.0 repaired? I accidentally plugged into the slots for the fan, as soon as the battery was plugged in the speedo went up in smoke. Is repair an option or should I just look into a new speedo? I tried e-maileing Speedpassion directly but no response. Thanks in advance!
If you are in USA, please call Phone 1-888-928-1328 and talk to our support technician....if you are outside, USA, please contact your country's SP dealer.
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Old 04-30-2012, 04:07 PM   #9364
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Originally Posted by silverhkswrx View Post
no response?
MMM motor will simply replaced the 1S.....nothing wrong with the 1S but MMM motor is simply a better choice and we are not going to make more 1S version motor.
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Old 04-30-2012, 04:09 PM   #9365
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bumpy View Post
Hey all.

There is a guy at my club who has just purchased a new Cirtix esc and Ultra sportsman 17.5 motor and he cant get it to run. It shows a solid orange light and flashing red which says in the manual that its in sensorless mode. I have tried 3 different motors (2 of which are my own which are perfectly fine running in my cars) and 3 different sensor leads too.I have tried resetting the esc and rebinding it, all the usual stuff but no luck so far. I just cant seem to get the esc out of sensorless mode. Any help is appreciated.
It will be replaced by SP warranty, contact the shop that he purchase the ESC and have them to replace the ESC with a new one.

But before you do so, when you say they are not working...in what way they are not working? Does the motor react slowly like it is in sensorless mode? Like it is kinda delay after you pull the trigger? Or motor not moving? what is the problem?
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Old 04-30-2012, 04:10 PM   #9366
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Originally Posted by dfiantii View Post
Here is a crazy question. How do you go about replacing the motor wires for the Cirtix esc if they are cut to short? I tried to desolder the wires from the board and they would not come off. So do I have to buy a new esc now?
It can be solder off...just need a very good soldering iron and spend some time.
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Old 04-30-2012, 05:17 PM   #9367
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Thanks Solara. I have a Hakko soldering iron i will try again at another time when I am ready to put it into my Losi Type R. I just don't want to burn the board.
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Old 04-30-2012, 05:36 PM   #9368
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Thanks Solara. I have a Hakko soldering iron i will try again at another time when I am ready to put it into my Losi Type R. I just don't want to burn the board.
Try putting a little bit of new solder on the joint. The new solder's flux will clean the joint. The new solder will flow around the joint giving you more contact area between the iron tip and solder joint giving you better heat transfer.

I usually tape the ESC down and pull on the wire while heating it up and the wire will pull right out. Any remaining solder in the wire hole, ill heat up and tap the esc lightly on a table to get most of it out. I finish by using solder wick to clean everything for the new wire.
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Old 04-30-2012, 06:04 PM   #9369
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Thanks for the pointers guys. I do have certifications in soldering. It just seemed to me like I was keeping the iron on it to long for it not to come out but I will try again. I did ass solder and use the wick to remove solder. I thought maybe they were using lead free solder and thats why it was such a pain. I have not dealt with lead free solder much.
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Old 04-30-2012, 09:32 PM   #9370
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what does the "New Option High Power Capacitor For Cirtix Stock Club Race ESC" exactly do? & also the sensor units +10, +20 & +40 timing for the v3 motors? what exactly do they do '7 how do they wok?
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Old 05-01-2012, 12:04 AM   #9371
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Any estimation on when the Reventon R Pro will be available?
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Old 05-01-2012, 05:04 AM   #9372
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Originally Posted by Solara View Post
It will be replaced by SP warranty, contact the shop that he purchase the ESC and have them to replace the ESC with a new one.

But before you do so, when you say they are not working...in what way they are not working? Does the motor react slowly like it is in sensorless mode? Like it is kinda delay after you pull the trigger? Or motor not moving? what is the problem?
Sorry i re-read my previous post and it doesn't really make that much sense. Ok, so I got the esc off my mate and after doing the esc to receiver bind and setup(with my Spektrum radio gear) it just wont make the motor power up(run) If i disconnect the sensor wire the motor will run for about 3 seconds and then it(17.5) just cogs. I've read the paper sheets that come with the esc and it says that th esc is in sensor-less mode so that makes sense. Just need to know how to get it out of that setting. It was purchased from Hobbies crazy on Ebay not long ago and I live in New Zealand so I cant really just take it down to my local hobby store and the response time from emails from Speed Passion is to say the least, pathetic. Most of the time I dont even get a reply. I dont have a local hobby store unfortunately.
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Old 05-01-2012, 07:58 AM   #9373
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Originally Posted by bluntsrus View Post
what does the "New Option High Power Capacitor For Cirtix Stock Club Race ESC" exactly do? & also the sensor units +10, +20 & +40 timing for the v3 motors? what exactly do they do '7 how do they wok?
The timing boards allow you to add more mechanical timing to the motor. Such as an extra 10*, 20*, or 40*. More mechanical timing on the motor is good for blinky classes.
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Old 05-01-2012, 08:16 AM   #9374
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Im running a V3 1S 17.5 with boost and im noticing the motor is fading towards the end of my run, the motor is coming off at 65deg Celsius so its not as if its getting too hot.

Can anyone tell me what the problem might be?

Also why is the MMM V3 17.5 out of stock everywhere I look? Does anyone have a link to a shop with them instock?

Last edited by MrRolla; 05-01-2012 at 08:18 AM. Reason: added some stuff
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Old 05-01-2012, 09:01 AM   #9375
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Originally Posted by MrRolla View Post
Im running a V3 1S 17.5 with boost and im noticing the motor is fading towards the end of my run, the motor is coming off at 65deg Celsius so its not as if its getting too hot.

Can anyone tell me what the problem might be?

Also why is the MMM V3 17.5 out of stock everywhere I look? Does anyone have a link to a shop with them instock?
How are your batteries? The fade could be the battery voltage falling off. You'll have to post your full motor, gearing, and ESC setup to get any good input past that.
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